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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > Belgian tripel in secondary
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:34 PM   #21
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Ok I have heard a couple people mention addding extra yeast at bottling. This makes sense since like you said most of it will be dead or weak. Will this help it to carb up quicker too then?

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Old 02-06-2013, 05:42 PM   #22
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Ok I have heard a couple people mention addding extra yeast at bottling. This makes sense since like you said most of it will be dead or weak. Will this help it to carb up quicker too then?
Yes it will. By re yeasting you will be able to avoid posting later that it has been 6 weeks and your beer isn't carbed yet.

For my Belgian styles I have been going with cheap ole champagne yeast. All you need is a a couple of grams of the dry yeast and you are good. It can tolerate the high ABV just fine and carb up your bottles.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:46 PM   #23
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Perfect! That's EXACTLY what I needed to know haha. And if I can drink this earlier and not have to wait any longer than I already am I will be a very happy camper lol

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Old 02-06-2013, 05:48 PM   #24
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And TWO people in a row agreeing has me sold!!

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Old 02-06-2013, 05:53 PM   #25
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And TWO people in a row agreeing has me sold!!
Haha. Now you are tempting fate. Sure as the sun rises, someone is going to jump in and say that we are all wrong and it takes months to carb up a high gravity beer no matter what you do.
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:11 PM   #26
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Just went online to buy some s-33 and get this its only $2 but everywhere I look wants like 6-9 dollars for shipping. Bogus. And my LHBS is an hour and a half away (sucks I know) know of a good site that doesn't charge an arm and a leg for shipping?

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Old 02-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #27
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I usually re-pitch on bigger beers. It really doesn't matter which one you use (won't contribute any character to the beer since it's not really going to be fermenting anything) as long as it is able to stand up to the alcohol you are pitching into. What's the % on the Tripel? I would for sure rehydrate it before you pitch it to avoid shocking the yeast.

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Old 02-06-2013, 06:46 PM   #28
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At the risk of complicating things, I'm going to suggest a few things to consider with a tripel.

First, I do think a secondary is important with high gravity beer. The alcohol is quite toxic to the yeast and they will start to die. I like to leave the beer in primary about three weeks to a month then transfer to a secondary vessel for lagering and clearing. For most others beers, you can get them out of fermentation in a few weeks without issues -- but not a tripel.

I roll ghetto stylee. So I "lager" by having the carboy sit outside in a carboard box protected from the sun. Right now, it's about 40-50 during the day and 22-28F at night. The beer stays right around 30-34F. It won't freeze until it gets to about 27F in the carboy. This helps get a lot of yeast and protein bits out. I do this for a few weeks. If it gets too cold, I put it in the basement at 50-52F.

I also add fresh yeast at bottling. I think this is important with a big beer. The yeast in suspension is weak and fixing to die as it stews in a toxic blend of alcohols in the fermentation vessel so a little fresh yeast seems to help. You could rehydrate some S-33 yeast which costs about $2 per pack, and throw about a quarter teaspoon of the rehydrated mix into your bottling bucket.

I figure about two months is accurate. 3 weeks primary, 3-5 weeks in a clearing vessel / lagering.

You can read endless pros and cons about using a secondary vessel. For smaller beers, I don't use it. For longer term aging or clearing of big beers I do use it. But I'm just a noob not some pro.
To address this comment, there is nothing wrong with doing that HGBacon says here. It's interesting with the lagering aspect as you normally don't lager with ale's since the esters that the yeasts produce are desirable as well as some other compounds that may diminish with lagering.

However, the whole clearing process can also be done in the bottle if you wait long enough. The difference is that the beer isn't aging all together which may or may not impact the flavor. It is also possible that the beer will be a bit clearer if you do a secondary.

As for the autolysis (yeast stressed out) aspect, with the minimal amount of yeast that makes it into the bottles it's really not much of a concern, from what I understand.

In general if you don't secondary your beer might be a little less clear and have a little more sediment on the bottom of the bottle. Whether it's worth it to wait the extra time (doing a secondary) for the beer to be ready is up to you.

There's also an argument that aging a beer in a bottle with the yeast is better as yeast aids the beer in aging and preventing oxidation.

Again there are many different rationals on this one and it's an ongoing debate.

I generally don't do secondary's but I do sometimes if I want my beer to be clearer. I have also started to cold crash in primary which has greatly helped my beers with their clarity.

Also, when you rehydrate the yeast I would just pitch the whole pack, that's what I usually do...
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:53 PM   #29
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Pitch the whole pack into the bottling bucket after rehydrating? That won't make a difference from the suggested .5 grams?

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Old 02-06-2013, 08:58 PM   #30
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In my experience it doesn't really matter, I just do the whole pack because if I don't I am just wasting a pack of yeast. I believe the recommended amount is something like 10% of your original amount you pitched in primary but I haven't seen any ill effects from doing a while pack in 5 gallons. It's up to you.

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