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Old 02-05-2014, 09:46 PM   #11
TimelessCynic
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I've done a 1.070 with 1 packet of yeast. Beer attenuated properly.


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Old 02-05-2014, 09:46 PM   #12
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I was going to say too much extract in too small a boil causing unfermentalbe sugars and while that still may be the case for a couple of gravity points. I'm now leaning to racking too early and staling fermentation. Maybe try warming just a bit and giving your keg a swirl to get the yeast back up into suspension. I'm not an expert, so hope it helps.

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Old 02-05-2014, 10:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by cardfan View Post
I did follow it as stated in the directions. Directions indicated to move to secondary, keg for me, to dry hop after 5-7 days of fermentation. I did move it after 7 days and I had stable gravity reads on my hydrometer for two straight days. I will try more yeast next time. Is there a OG starting point where more yeast is required?
Take a look at MrMalty. Punch some different OGs in there for the calculator results. Compare these results with the calculator at Brewers Friend.

I don't use dry yeast to often. My cut off point for using a single 11 gram pack of yeast is 1.060.

I would also leave the beer in the primary for at least three weeks. I bottle, so at three weeks the beer has dropped clear. Also gives the yeast time to clean up off flavors produced by the fermentation.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:11 PM   #14
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I'm far from an expert on these things but it seems to me that even at the higher gravities a single packet of yeast would be enough. Considering in every batch that you pitch dry yeast it has to go through some serious reproduction before it can start the active fermentation.
every time a yeast cell splits, it is giving half of itself - its skin (membrane), its guts, etc - away. so yeast can't reproduce indefinitely. eventually they run out of stuff to give away and still make a viable cell. typically a yeast cell can create about 4 new cells before being too weak to split again.

use a pitching rate calculator, like http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html, to figure out how much rehydrated yeast to add (it's important to rehydrate!). mr.malty says that 1.3 packets is required for 5.25 gallons of 1.074 wort, so 1 packet isn't ideal but it's probably close enough. if you don't rehydrate, 1 packet probably isn't enough since many (Jamil says up to half) of the cells will die due to sugars and other things rushing inside the cell walls. 0.5 packets instead of 1.3 is a big difference, and that might explain attenuation issues.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:42 PM   #15
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On the first batch, no. I moved it to dry hop in my keg after 7 days (2 days of gravity reading that were the same). This second batch is still fermenting and I am dry hopping in my primary this time. I will check and see what my gravity is at the end of dry hopping before moving to a keg. Maybe this one will go down a little from the 1.024 it is currently sitting at. Thanks for your responses I am happy with my beer taste so far, just looking for better results in this specific area.

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Old 02-05-2014, 11:50 PM   #16
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Thanks, that is great info. I will try the calculator on my next round. I think in the future, given a similar OG, I will use more yeast or make a starter. Twice in a row is enough to make my try something different.

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Old 02-06-2014, 01:27 AM   #17
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I think in the future, given a similar OG, I will use more yeast or make a starter.
make a starter only if you use liquid yeast. dry yeast is best rehydrated, but don't make a starter.
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What hops should I grow? Hop grower's comparison table. Looking for cheap honey?

Drinking: a farmhouse with ECY08 & brett blend
Fermenting: sour cherry mead, imperial chocolate stout and its not-so-small beer second runnings, our bruin & a few other sours
Aging: a bunch of belgian and soured stuff, and acerglyn.
Up next: harvest ale with homegrown hops
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