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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > 90 minute IPA for extract
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:57 PM   #1
Ozzie53
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Default 90 minute IPA for extract

Whats up fellow brewers, my buddy and I wanted to try a 90 min IPA Extract Recipe, does anyone know of any or have any recipes? I couldnt find any posted.
Thanks'
Brian

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Old 11-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #2
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I have your answer, my son and I are doing just that on friday. Here is the link I have on the pages I printed:

http://forum.alcoholreport.com/t11065/

if that doesn't work, PM me and ill scan the two pages back to you later today.


sheldon

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Old 11-22-2010, 02:34 PM   #3
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http://www.xtremebrewing.com/

This guy is buddies with Sam (founder DogFish) Great clone!
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Old 11-22-2010, 03:14 PM   #4
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awesome, this looks great, thanks gentlemen!!

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Old 06-23-2011, 03:35 PM   #5
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...bump.

Decided this will be my next brew. I'm tired of LME - it's just a total pain in the ass, and want to start using DME, with some "advanced techniques" (sparging). I don't have the space or the SWMBO permission (yes, my balls are in her purse) to start all-grain brewing yet. Mainly it's a space issue, we have a 2BR condo that we're remodeling for some sweat equity, to move up to a house where I can have my mantown. Once we get a house with a basement or garage, then I'll get myself some nicer equipment and start in with the AG.

Anyways, here's the recipe from Alcoholreport:

Quote:
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA

This recipe has been floating around the internet and several magazines lately. It continues to be in high demand so I'm adding it to my collection. The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 2 ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter or keg (dry hopping). If this recipe seems confusing, you are probably doing it right.

8 lbs Light Dry Malt Extract
1 3/4 lb German Pilsner Malt
1 3/4 lb Brown (amber) Malt 35 L
2 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs
3/4 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs
1/2 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs
1 oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop
1/2 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop
Wyeast British Ale Yeast

For Bottling: 1 1/4 cup Dry Malt Extract Or 3/4 cup Corn sugar

Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 2 1/2 gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle.

Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 8 lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 2 oz. Amarillo hops, 3/4 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1/2 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding 1/4 ounce of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 5 gals. Add yeast when the temp reaches 70º. Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.

Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle or keg

If you keg your beer, add the dry hops into keg instead of the secondary.

For bottling, use 1 1/4 cup of dry malt extract or 3/4 cup of corn sugar boiled with 2 cups of water added in the bottling bucket.
And here's my revised 7 gallon recipe: (please tell me what you think...)

Quote:
Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA Extract Clone (7 Gallon Recipe)
The addition of Amber/Brown Malt in this recipe contributes more to a suttle roast flavor but little of the sweetness you might expect in a beer of amber color. The hop additions to this recipe are not your normal boil/flavor/aroma additions. In the 90 minute boil you will be adding 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of hops every 8 minutes followed by another 3 ½ ounces of hops added to the secondary fermenter.

11 ¼ lbs Light Dry Malt Extract (exact conversion is 11.2 lbs)
2 ½ lbs German Pilsner Malt (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
2 ½ lbs Brown (amber) Malt 35 L (exact conversion is 2.45 lbs)
3 oz Amarillo Hops 16 HBUs (exact conversion is 2.8 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops 8 HBUs (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 ½ oz Amarillo Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.4 oz)
1 oz Simcoe Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
1 oz Warrior Hops -Dry Hop (exact conversion is 1.05 oz)
Wyeast British Ale Yeast
For Bottling: 1 ¾ cup Dry Malt Extract Or 1 cup Corn sugar. {1}

Partial Mash:
Add the cracked, Pilsner Malt and Brown Malt to 1 ½ gal of 170º water. This combination of grain and hot water (mash) will drop in temperature to 150º. Let the mash sit for 1 hour at 150º. Sparge (rinse) the grain with 3 ½ gals of 170º water and collect run off into the boil kettle. {2}

Boil:
Add to the boil kettle, 11 ¼ lbs. of Dry Light Malt Extract and bring to a boil. Watch out for boil overs. In a separate bowl, mix together 3 oz. Amarillo hops, 1 oz. Simcoe hops, and 1 oz. Warrior hops. For the next 90 minutes, boil the wort while adding just over 1/4 ounce (.35 oz to be precise) of the hop mixture every 8 minutes. Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. {3} Add the wort to the fermenter with cold water to make 7 gals. Add yeast starter when the temp reaches 70º. {4} Ferment at 70º for 7 days or until fermentation slows. Rack to a secondary fermenter.

Dry Hopping:
Add the dry hop combination into the secondary fermenter using a hop sack. {5} Let it age 1 weeks in secondary then bottle. {6}
Bottling:
For bottling, use 1 ¾ cup of dry malt extract or 1 cup of corn sugar boiled with 3 cups of water added in the bottling bucket. {1}
My questions:
1) My standard rule so far has been 1oz of dextrose per gallon of "final product" that is actually in the bottling bucket... By the numbers I'd assume that DMEextrose = 1.75:1? I'm also assuming that you boil the DME with water, like you would boil dextrose with water? Directions were unclear, but I'm going with common sense on that assumption. 1.75oz DME per gallon in the bottling bucket, boiled in 3 cups of water sound about right? I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous about bottling with DME, but I said the same after ditching the carb drops for dextrose... And that has worked great.

2) That puts 5 gallons in my 5 ½ gallon boil kettle. Looks Like I'll need to upgrade if I don't want to boil over (indoor, stovetop). Question though is: I have never sparged. Can I do the BIAB sparging method, where I just get a grain bag/filter bag/whatever it's called, that covers the opening of the boil kettle, and sparge the 170º water over the grains that way? I'm assuming that is what they mean, I just want to be clear.

3) Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. What does this mean? The hops all got added already... Confused.

4) I'll be making a yeast starter. Not really a question there I guess. I was going to go into detail about recovering actual Dogfish Head yeast... But I honestly don't think I'm ready for that yet. Soon though... I found a sweet centrifuge on ebay for short money.

5) Hop sack... I have been just tossing hops in, and letting them settle to the bottom. Again, I've had good luck with this. Do I really have to use a hop sack? I thought it was only for convenience. I autosiphon from secondary into the bottling bucket, which does an excellent job of keeping the sediment at the bottom and not stirring it up into the Ale Pail. Thoughts?

6) Secondary for only a week? That's it? Seems like a short time... I suppose the majority of the conditioning will be in the bottles then?

Thanks... Sorry for the huge post, but it's always better to be safe than sorry, and I know there's some real talent here that can answer these questions.

-Craig
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
My questions:
1) My standard rule so far has been 1oz of dextrose per gallon of "final product" that is actually in the bottling bucket... By the numbers I'd assume that DMEextrose = 1.75:1? I'm also assuming that you boil the DME with water, like you would boil dextrose with water? Directions were unclear, but I'm going with common sense on that assumption. 1.75oz DME per gallon in the bottling bucket, boiled in 3 cups of water sound about right? I'd be lying if I said I wasn't nervous about bottling with DME, but I said the same after ditching the carb drops for dextrose... And that has worked great.
DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
2) That puts 5 gallons in my 5 ½ gallon boil kettle. Looks Like I'll need to upgrade if I don't want to boil over (indoor, stovetop). Question though is: I have never sparged. Can I do the BIAB sparging method, where I just get a grain bag/filter bag/whatever it's called, that covers the opening of the boil kettle, and sparge the 170º water over the grains that way? I'm assuming that is what they mean, I just want to be clear.
You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
3) Sparge the hops with cold water into the fermenter. What does this mean? The hops all got added already... Confused.
If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
4) I'll be making a yeast starter. Not really a question there I guess. I was going to go into detail about recovering actual Dogfish Head yeast... But I honestly don't think I'm ready for that yet. Soon though... I found a sweet centrifuge on ebay for short money.
Yeast starters are good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
5) Hop sack... I have been just tossing hops in, and letting them settle to the bottom. Again, I've had good luck with this. Do I really have to use a hop sack? I thought it was only for convenience. I autosiphon from secondary into the bottling bucket, which does an excellent job of keeping the sediment at the bottom and not stirring it up into the Ale Pail. Thoughts?
Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
6) Secondary for only a week? That's it? Seems like a short time... I suppose the majority of the conditioning will be in the bottles then?
I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
DME is more expensive than corn sugar or table sugar, I don't know why you wouldn't just use sugar.
I have plenty of both... It's not about the cost... I'm more curious about the difference in priming. How does DME method compare to dextrose? I don't use cane sugar because I was told it made crappy unrefined soda bubbles.

Whatever does the best job for this clone, is what I want to use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
You don't need to sparge with that much water. I would do the BIAB method where you just let it sit in 170* water for some time. Using 5 lbs of grain for your mash, you will have very little water needed for this. (1.25 quarts per pound)
Ya, it sounded like a lot. 1.5 gallons, BIAB method. Then boil, then DME at flameout?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
If you strain your wort while adding it to your carboy, sometimes you will want to pour the top-off water over the hop residue you strained out to get more out of it.
Ahhhh, makes perfect sense. Great thanks. I never strain though. I let it go right in the primary, then autosiphon to secondary for more settling and clarifying. It's a pretty sweet setup, relatively easy, and produces pretty clear results. Not to mention the beer gets to sit with the hops longer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
Yeast starters are good.
Yup. no arguments there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
Don't bother using a hop sack, I don't use them.
Same as above... Just let it mingle with no bag, then settle out, then the night before racking i move it to the counter (so the next day when i rack it's settled and clear again, if anything got stirred up when moving).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bknifefight View Post
I wouldn't even bother using a secondary. Dry hop right in the primary after it's done.
I was under the impression that the secondary was recommended for conditioning, for pretty much any brew. I guess I need some clarification on the when's and do's and dont's of secondaries...

I had "yeast starter" logic. It isn't necessary, but only makes it better. No?
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:36 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
I have plenty of both... It's not about the cost... I'm more curious about the difference in priming. How does DME method compare to dextrose? I don't use cane sugar because I was told it made crappy unrefined soda bubbles.

Whatever does the best job for this clone, is what I want to use.
It won't make a difference in quality between DME and Corn Sugar. The difference will only be in the amount per gallon needed to get the carbonation you want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
Ya, it sounded like a lot. 1.5 gallons, BIAB method. Then boil, then DME at flameout?
Use 1.5 gallons for your mash and 1.5 gallons for your sparge. You will have plenty of room left over after that. Then do everything as you normally would.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
Ahhhh, makes perfect sense. Great thanks. I never strain though. I let it go right in the primary, then autosiphon to secondary for more settling and clarifying. It's a pretty sweet setup, relatively easy, and produces pretty clear results. Not to mention the beer gets to sit with the hops longer.
It's pretty much all up to preferences. If you don't strain, you're getting all of the sugars/hop oils that I strain out and there is no need to rinse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lextasy23 View Post
I was under the impression that the secondary was recommended for conditioning, for pretty much any brew. I guess I need some clarification on the when's and do's and dont's of secondaries...No?
Like above, it's all up to preference. If you want to to clear a bit more or bulk condition longer, then use a secondary. My only recommendation is that if you plan on bulk aging for some time, don't dry hop until 1 week before bottling. If you do it from the get-go and age it for a month, you may get grassy flavors from the hops.
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:21 PM   #9
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I used this recipe a few months ago and it turned out great. Give this one time in bottle conditioning...

I tried it after 2 weeks and was a little disappointed, waited another month...and it's made a huge difference.

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Old 06-27-2011, 05:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robh4413 View Post
I used this recipe a few months ago and it turned out great. Give this one time in bottle conditioning...

I tried it after 2 weeks and was a little disappointed, waited another month...and it's made a huge difference.
Can you compare what you did vs what I have noted in my 7 gallon conversion?
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