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#11 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 42
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 44
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Why does it make a difference to steep small?
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#13 |
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Junior Member
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I think I'm gonna get a turkey fryer and start doing bigger boils.......
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
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I bought a big pot(43L). should i try and do a full 6 gal boil? or just like 4gal and top up with cool water in the fermenter?
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: louisville
Posts: 729
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There's this great thread that explains that.........oh wait.....
WE'RE IN IT. ![]()
__________________
Avid brewer, expert chef, hot pepper enthusiast. |
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#16 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 17
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Why the obsession with high hop flavor? I hate IPA's because of the hop bitterness. I can't think of a PA that I enjoy unless it's with food. There are so many wonderful beers with low hop content, and yet so many of these tips are suggested with hop treatment as the reason.
My real question is this, If I don't care about having high hop bitterness, can I cut down on the boil time? If the LME only requires 15 minutes to sanitize it, can I increase the hops and reduce the boil time to say, 30 minutes? The suggestion to step up to "real" or "better" PA/IPA won't help me. Thanks |
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#17 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
10 Steps to Better Extract Brewing Author Chris Colby Issue October 2005 Chris Colby is the editor of Brew Your Own magazine.
__________________
"Dad always thought laughter was the best medicine, which I guess is why several of us died of tuberculosis." www.TheFreeSpeak.com |
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#18 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 15
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I have the same question and I'm not sure it's explained all that well in the OP. He advises to steep small to get the color and flavor you want out of your grains, but there is no mention of what the consequences are of steeping too big. I brewed today and steeped 2 pounds of malt in 2.5 gallons of water. Now I know better (I should have steeped in 2-6 quarts), but I'm curious how my mistake may affect my brew.
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rochester,NY
Posts: 148
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Quote:
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__________________
"We brewers don’t make beer, we just get all the ingredients together and the beer makes itself." ~ Fritz Maytag, President Anchor Brewing Primary #1: Apfelwein/Cyser Primary #2: AHS Red Stripe Lager clone Bottled: AHS American Amber Ale Next up: Coffee Stout |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
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I think the reason you don't need excess water for steeping/rinsing is because if the pH in your steep is too high, you can extract tannins from the grain. In AG/partial mash/mini mash brewing, the conversion of starch to sugar depends greatly on pH (among other things).
I did one mini-mash (used an equal quantity of 2-row with the specialty grains in the steep, tried to control temperature better, let it sit longer) when I was feeling cocky and ended up getting a lousy 45% efficiency. However, that beer has the biggest, fullest taste of any beer I've made in its gravity range. Normally I steep and rinse on the high end of the recommended range and the beers come out good. However, I do almost all the other recommended tricks. I heartily support a late extract addition; you will get much lighter beer and more hop utilization if you want it (more bittering or save $ on hops, your choice). You will want brewing software to adjust recipes though. I also second the notion of pulling your kettle off the heat to dissolve wort and using an immersion or flow-through chiller.
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Natural 20 Brewery Primary: sixty-leventh batch of AHB Wit, a Sticke Alt recipe of indeterminate quality Secondary: NB Munich Dunkel, bock w/free wort Kegged: Vienna Ale, Shakemantle Imperial Ginger, two bocks, Apfelwein, pomegranate wheat |
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