yeoldebrewer

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That seems like a high "stuck rate". What kind of yeast and wort process are you using?

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mparmer

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I'm doing partial boil's with extract kits. I've had stuck ferms with Muntons, Wyeast liquid 1098 (did a starter on this one, looked just like the pic's I'd seen online) and Saf-33. My problem may be my temp swings. I'm keeping the ambient room temp within the yeast's range but I am having swings of 5 or 6 degrees within the range. I'm trying to find a good used (cheap) fridge or freezer.

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blstr

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Sorry to bring a thread back from '08 but it's the best discussion I've found on the 1.020 curse. So here's the deal, I'm a new brewer and have a couple of batches down and all have stopped at 1.020!
-All were extract (1 LME, 1 DME & both w/grains).
-I've hit my OG's both times.
-Shook the crap out of them to aerate.
-I tried late addition extract with the latest (LME Porter Kit w/grains)
-I used swamp cooler for the first and kept it about 68F using S-04 and fermentation fridge for the second at 62F using S-05.
-Rousing the yeast didn't do anything either...

I like a nice malty beer but sometimes that first drink can be cloying. So the question is, would adding more hops bittering/aroma or both bring the flavor more in balance?

rifraf

Recipes 

What kind of yeast? I've noticed sticking at 1.020 if I use liquid yeast without a starter in some of my bigger beers.

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blstr

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I've used the dry pack yeast Safale S-04 and US-05 for my beers. The S-04 I know attenuates higher that's why for the second round I swiched to US-05...Maybe I should try Nottingham? I've read it can really drive down the FG. The more I read about DME/LME I think I'll just plan for it to finish high and plan for more hop.

Unless someone has a fix...

rifraf

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Ah weird I haven't had that issue with dry yeast. Are you sure you calibrated your hydrometer and corrected for temperature?

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blstr

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The hydrometer is good and I was just reading another thread and a guy mentioned the boil size. I do 2.5 gallon boils for 5 gallon batch....hmmm....I wonder if I'm causing caramelization by not heating enough water. I'll try doing a 3.5 gallon boil next time and see what I get. Can't believe I didn't think of this before!!! I'm an idiot! Basic cooking 101 the thicker the sauce the more likely of scorching.

rifraf

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Ah I hadn't considered that...My boil is 4g. Hopefully that helps! Although I would expect that to cause an issue with OG not FG.

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zeg

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I've also not had any "stuck" brews, including 2 extract+grain brews (a bitter with OG=1.035, FG=1.007, and a stout with OG=1.059, FG=1.015) and a few partial mashes with OGs in the 1.05x and FGs between 1.009 and 1.014. I have used only DME, no LME, either Briess or Munton's. Always add the extract late (50% late for the all-extract batches).

Yeasts have been Nottingham, S-04, and US-05. There hasn't been much correlation between yeast and FG. The Nottingham gave the lowest (1.007) but also gave a mid-high result (1.012), though the latter was with a much higher OG.

So, I guess this is a bit more anecdotal evidence that is compatible with the caramelization theory. I am very careful to avoid scorching. I remove the pot from the heat when doing DME additions and stir frequently to keep anything from settling on the bottom. I also use a far-too-fancy thick-bottomed kettle that probably helps avoid hotspots, though I do have an electric stove.

Oh, also my 1.007 FG was on a 2.5 gal boil. Most of the others have been 3.5-4 gallon boils. All are 5-5.5 gallon batches.

blstr

Recipes 

Zeg...I think you've probably proven my thought.

-I use a cheap aluminum pot
-Electric stove
-I mix the extract off heat but after the hot break and two teenagers always hovering in the kitchen; I'm not real good about mixing...just kind of let the boil do the work.


I think I'm probably carmelizing!