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Old 07-11-2012, 11:50 PM   #11
jfrank85
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The pH of the water is not important. Mash pH is what you need to be concerned about.
Well yeah but with a low carbonate hardness wont the pH swing wildly from lack of buffer? Sorry, my 15+ years of aquarium keeping tends to come out now and again .
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:16 AM   #12
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I'd say no, it's not that easy. Sure you can add minerals to achieve a profile, but that doesn't begin to address your mash pH. Which is just as important as your profile.

Chances are with your moderately low bicarbonate, you could be ok. Check out ez water or brun water to make relatively sure.
I have to add some acidulated malt to everything to get in range.

Also read the water chemistry primer. Good luck!

ETA : to hit that profile, you'd have to add a Bunch of bicarbonate, which is usually discouraged.

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Old 07-12-2012, 01:19 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jfrank85
Whoa! 9.2 pH! Thats nuts!
I also called the Water Dept on that one... they say they like to keep it at a pH of around 9 to "help the pipes".

At any rate, I've always adjusted my water down with lactic acid to counteract that.

Thanks guys for the help guys!
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:34 AM   #14
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Well yeah but with a low carbonate hardness wont the pH swing wildly from lack of buffer? Sorry, my 15+ years of aquarium keeping tends to come out now and again .
In short, the enzyme activity in the mash aided by the proper amount of Ca+ ions creates a slightly acidic environment. While that starting water has a pH of 9.2 there is very little residual alkalinity keeping it there. Once the mash activity begins the pH will almost certainly drop into the desired range and stabilize.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by BigEd View Post
In short, the enzyme activity in the mash aided by the proper amount of Ca+ ions creates a slightly acidic environment. While that starting water has a pH of 9.2 there is very little residual alkalinity keeping it there. Once the mash activity begins the pH will almost certainly drop into the desired range and stabilize.
Makes sense .
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:33 PM   #16
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Why not add some sodium chloride as well if you are trying to emulate burton on trent water.

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Old 07-13-2012, 05:48 PM   #17
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Why not add some sodium chloride as well if you are trying to emulate burton on trent water.
There's not much reason to ever add Sodium to brewing water. Sodium serves no purpose in the mash and too much can create problems for both the yeast and the flavor of the beer. Since the amounts of both Na+ and Cl- in both Burton and the brewer's starting water are small and very similar it just isn't anything with which to be concerned.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
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25 sodium may taste a little salty as is. I would avoid adding more sodium.

And won't 40 magnesium give you the runs?

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Old 07-13-2012, 07:31 PM   #19
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And won't 40 magnesium give you the runs?
No. You would need to be at 125ppm and above to begin worrying about that. Only trace amounts of Magnesium are required and in most cases there is enough in the malt itself. Burton water does have a lot at 40ppm but not enough to cause problems.
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