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Old 01-12-2010, 02:43 PM   #11
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Check out this page for some good water recipes:

http://brewery.org/library/wchmprimer.html

I find that if I try to hit the proper SRM and bitterness vs. matliness for the beer things turn out just fine (I use http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/)

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Old 01-12-2010, 02:53 PM   #12
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Burton is an extreme example of a very bitter water profile. People assume it is what everyone over there used for IPAs over the years, but likely the breweries modified their own water to make it less harsh. If you open Brewater there are a bunch of pre-loaded profiles for different styles of beer. It is a lot of experimenting to see what you like and see how your beers come out. I just try to get my water close to a water profile that I know will work for the beer I am brewing. Many members here will share what profile they use and how their beer turned out.

The latest profile I want to try is Vista, CA because of Green Flash and their great IPAs. After I researched Vista's water, it's no wonder Green Flash makes great IPAs, their water is just about perfect for IPAs right out of the tap. The brewery says they may add a little gypsum, but that is it.

Oh, for additions, you treat your entire water, mash and sparge.


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Old 01-12-2010, 04:23 PM   #13
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All I'd add to that water for an APA/IPA is 1/2 teaspoon of epsom salt and 1/2 tsp of gypsum. That would get you close to the Randy Mosher "ideal pale ale" profile.

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Old 01-14-2010, 07:54 PM   #14
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I think i'm on the right track now, thanks for the help guys!

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Old 01-16-2010, 05:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILOVEBEER View Post
I heard that if you can drink it directly from the faucet it is good enough to brew with. I have major calcium in my water. I use a chlorine filter setup from Lowe's. It makes the water taste like bottled water. I know I just got into AG but I don't think I am ever going to get this intense with the water portion....Just my opinion
Just some heads up on chlorine.

I too had been using an activated charcoal filter thinking I was removing my chlorine. I was even checking the results with test strips and verifying no chlorine remained. However, I discovered our city had converted to a new form of chlorine "chloramine" and my test strips were useless for detecting chloramine. And I further discovered that my filter was equally useless. The chloramine remained uneffected in full strength as provided by the local water.

I purchased new test strips specifically for chloramines at a pet shop (used for aquariums) and confirmed the presence of the chloramine at about 2 ppm (before and after the filter).

Futher research found the chloramine is easily removed by adding a small amount of potassium metabisulfite. Amazing stuff. Only .10g per 5 gal (or 1/4 campden tablet) and no more chlorine and it takes only a minute or two to dissolve and do it's thing.

So, if you have municipal water with chloramine as a disinfectant, be advised that filtering will not remove the stuff.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:02 PM   #16
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charcoal filters will take a lot of chloramine out but it has to be relatively new and you have to run the water through it very slowly. I would guess that most people don't run it slow enough to be effective. I'm impatient so I use campden instead.

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Old 01-19-2010, 12:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
charcoal filters will take a lot of chloramine out but it has to be relatively new and you have to run the water through it very slowly.
I totally agree.

When I checked the aspect of just how fast one could process the water through the filter it was slower than fly sparging.... I, like you, simply couldn't justify the time required and even at a painfully slow rate some chlorine remained.
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Old 01-19-2010, 01:45 PM   #18
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Well, the one time I tried to get my brew water at the right pace, I forgot about it and overflowed the HLT for a good 8 hours. Luckily it was in the garage.

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