Thinking about going all grain and have some questions on coolers

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the_mox

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Hey guys,

I tried searching for these questions, couldn't find them...

So, I've been doing some research on equipment to buy and what not (I already have a turkey burner, and a 7.5 gallon pot) and I'm thinking of using two coolers. I'm thinking of buying a Coleman xtreme 70 qt cooler to mash in. Here is my first question, I plan on doing 5 gallon batches, is this cooler to big for a 5 gallon batch? can you in fact "go to big" on a cooler?

For my other cooler (to hold my sparge water) I was going to use an Igloo Max Cold 70qt cooler I already own. does anyone have any experience using this cooler? I know with the wheels it wouldn't be the best option (at least I don't think, maybe I'm wrong) for a mash tun, but what about for holding sparge water? How easy would it be to convert this cooler?

thanks guys for all your help on this!
 
I have the Coleman 70qt extreme that I mash 5 gallon batches in flawlessly.
If you want to use Beersmith or similar software to project strike water temps, you must pre-heat it though. Otherwise you won't come close. I put a gallon of boiling(ish) water in it for 30-45 minutes while setting everything else up.

A side note on that cooler... If you go with a conversion kit for the drain/bulkhead make sure you get a 2" nipple. The 1.5" doesn't give enough threads to get a ball valve or coupling on either end.
A 2" nipple with washers to take up the excess on the outside works nicely. That was the valve is outside of the drain recess.
 
I have a 48qt coleman and it has been plenty big enough for all my 5 gallon batches. So far I think the biggest grain bill I've had was somewhere around 16 lbs and there was plenty of room to mash and sparge (I batch sparge). I've heard you can have too large of a cooler if it makes your grain bed too shallow (I believe you want at least a 4 inch depth on your grain bed). The grain bed acts as a filter so while I'm not sure that your efficiency will suffer with a shallow grain bed, you might end up with a cloudier beer.

As for the second cooler... I just hold my sparge water in pots on the stove until I'm ready to dump it in for my batch sparge.

One last thing, I think you'll be able to brew 5 gallon batches with your 7.5 gallon pot but a bigger pot would be helpful if you plan on doing some bigger beers. I have a 10 gallon pot usually leaves me with some extra space in the top so I don't have to be too worried about boil overs or spilling if I need to move the pot.
 
I use a 48 qt. cooler and a turkey fryer. You pretty much HAVE to be there for the hot break, but it's no problem after that point.
 
Thanks guys, as far as converting my coolers, I was just going to purchase something like this:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/kewler-kitz-basic-conversion-brass-with-1-2-barb.html

would those work?

Check out barginfittings.com Their new design is the shiznit.

I have a 70 qt extreme that I use for 10 gallon batches. It's very big for 5 gallon batches. It could work BUT only if you batch sparge. The grain bed would not be deep enough for a fly sparge. Also, it's gonna have a ton of air space in there during the mash and you may have some issues maintaining temps. Personally I think a 48 is a better fit for batch sparging 5 gallon batches. If your fly sparging the tall skinny round coolers are a better design.
 
Thanks guys, as far as converting my coolers, I was just going to purchase something like this:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/kewler-kitz-basic-conversion-brass-with-1-2-barb.html

would those work?

I use this fitting in my 48qt coleman. My only beef with it is that the bulkhead on the inside is longer than I would like which creates probably close to a 1/4 - 1/2 gal of dead space in the front of the MLT that I just can't drain. I've wondered if this causes a hit to my efficiency since I have good wort stuck in there. I figure during the sparge that high gravity wort gets mixed up so what results stuck in that dead space is not really a cause for concern... I'm sure my efficiency suffers more from the crush I get since I don't have my own mill yet (but I have a birthday coming up!).
 
Midwest is a great vendor, but these kits seem to work better.
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=44_35_47&product_id=85
You can get the 2.0" nipple, 2 or 3 piece stainless ball valve, and stainless barb all cheaper. $27 total.

They also have this new kit...
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=44_35_47&product_id=147
Which I may buy one just to try it. Don't need it, but it looks neater than ****.

I just used that conversion set from bargainfittings and i'm damn impressed. I used it to convert a 70qt coleman extreme. With batch sparging, this should leave me plenty of room for bigger beers.
 
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