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Old 03-29-2007, 01:45 PM   #11
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Two questions, have you checked the calibration on the thermometer, and are you using O2 injection for aeration. Have had similar results before during the learning curve on how much O2 to use in 6 gallon batches.

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Old 03-29-2007, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kladue
Two questions, have you checked the calibration on the thermometer, and are you using O2 injection for aeration. Have had similar results before during the learning curve on how much O2 to use in 6 gallon batches.
That was my initial thought as well but he mentioned that the wort was tested at the LHBS with the same results.
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Old 03-29-2007, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoebisch01
That was my initial thought as well but he mentioned that the wort was tested at the LHBS with the same results.
Right, I actually brought a sample in to the LHBS and he checked it with his own equipment with the same result.

I DID use champagne yeast at one time in my house about a year ago. I had a few Chimay clones that spent 3 months in the bottle and still wouldn't carbonate because of the high alcohol so I opened 6 bottles and put a tiny pinch of champagne yeast in them.

I brew outside though and pour the wort from the kettle to my primary outside. Is it possible, with a fan blowing on my primary, that some wild champagne yeast is getting in through the airlock?
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shlap
I DID use champagne yeast at one time in my house about a year ago. I had a few Chimay clones that spent 3 months in the bottle and still wouldn't carbonate because of the high alcohol so I opened 6 bottles and put a tiny pinch of champagne yeast in them.

I brew outside though and pour the wort from the kettle to my primary outside. Is it possible, with a fan blowing on my primary, that some wild champagne yeast is getting in through the airlock?
You never know, but I doubt it would get through the airlock. Most likely if it did get some it was during transfer just after cooling or got blown into your primary when the lid was off. I always keep my lid on as a rule after I have sanitized and always avoid strong air currents. It really does sound to me like you got some kind of airborne yeast in there. One interesting thing though is if it tastes good and doesn't ferment you all the way out it might be worth culturing if this is indeed the case. It might be fun to play with.
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:23 PM   #15
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Does the beer taste clean? What I am getting at is the possibility of wild yeast.

A 1.056 OG mashed at 160, even being all 2-row without any specialty grains is going to have a hard time getting that low. What was your pitching volume?

I am puzzled here and almost think you should just keep brewing and see what happens. Watch the water/grain ratio, the mash temp, the pitching rate, all the usual suspects and see what happens.

That or start marketing IPA Dry.

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Old 03-29-2007, 05:58 PM   #16
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About the only common factor would be the airborne exposure during transfer or a thermometer that is reading 5-10 degrees higher than actual temp. Might be able to get the FG numbers if mash temp was between 140-150 degrees and had a long conversion rest. Might want to check thermometer in boiling water to see if readings are accurate.

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Old 03-29-2007, 10:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewpastor
Does the beer taste clean? What I am getting at is the possibility of wild yeast.

A 1.056 OG mashed at 160, even being all 2-row without any specialty grains is going to have a hard time getting that low. What was your pitching volume?

I am puzzled here and almost think you should just keep brewing and see what happens. Watch the water/grain ratio, the mash temp, the pitching rate, all the usual suspects and see what happens.

That or start marketing IPA Dry.
It tastes very clean. I also double-checked the themometer on the last batch by using two different thermometers in the MT (I guess they could both be off but doubtfull).

As far as sanitation, from kettle to primary, here's my process:

I do everything in my garage...
As soon as the 60 min boil is finished, I put the lid on and submerge the lower 3/4 in icewater. Then I fill my primary up to the top with water/iodophore and leave it sit until my kettle cools to about 78 which takes about 45min. When the kettle is cool enough, I empty the iodophore from the primary, take the lid off the kettle, and pour the wort in.
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:53 AM   #18
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Keep brewing and see what happens. It sounds like you have the right stuff going, so just keep pushing ahead and don't worry about all of this.

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Old 03-30-2007, 03:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewpastor
Keep brewing and see what happens. It sounds like you have the right stuff going, so just keep pushing ahead and don't worry about all of this.
Definitely will... I just got home and poured a glass of the amber, a Fat Tire clone, from the keg... this stuff just keeps getting better. Great head and it's really cleared up now and mellowed out... tastes extremely close to the real deal but better head and lacing the whole way down the glass. Mmmmm...beer.
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Old 03-30-2007, 04:23 AM   #20
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I'm just going to chime in and say I only wish I could get TG's that low, but I really like dry beer... I'm quite happy with a terminal of 8-10, and based on the fact that your beer seems to be getting better and better.... well, maybe it IS equipment error!

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