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Old 06-29-2010, 08:45 PM   #71
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Alright, so the plan of attack will be:

* Add hops (in boiled pantyhose with a marble to sink) on Day 16
* Move fermenter with hops to refrigerator at ~40F on Day 20
* Rack to bottling bucket on day 23
* Bottle condition at room temp for ~2 weeks

Objections?

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Old 07-07-2010, 03:59 PM   #72
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I've got a two-hearted clone right now that I dry-hopped w/2 oz of centennial pellets. This is my second time around dryhopping - first time I used 1 oz of whole cascade hops and had good success with that. I'm anxious to taste/smell any difference. I'll have to be extremely careful in racking to the keg. There's plenty of hops still in suspension. I'm planning on going the cheap nylon stocking around the racking cane route and seeing what happens. I plan on leaving the 2ndary out for 30 minutes or so, racking to a bottling bucket...letting it sit for another 30 minutes, then racking to the keg - in an attempt to minimize the particles I pick up.

Here's another question for everyone - has anyone experienced an increase in CO2 activity after dryhopping? I'm currently on day 18 of fermentation (10 days primary, 8 days secondary/dryhop) and I'm still getting multiple airlock bubbles per minute. I also notice hop particles moving up to the top layer of wort and then dropping back down - similar to a fun yeast party.

Thoughts?

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Old 07-07-2010, 04:39 PM   #73
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Did you take a gravity reading before you transferred to your conditioning vessel? Did you make sure fermentation was complete before the transfer?

FWIW, I made a Two Hearted clone that I used 1 oz of Centennial for dry hop in 5 gallons. The FG was 1.008 before I racked on top of the dry hops. I used Safale US-05 yeast.

The hops can serve as nucleation points to release any CO2 that may already be in suspension. You may also have added something that is eating any sugar that was left from the fermentation.

When dry hopping with pellets, I have found it beneficial to rack into a tertiary vessel with some finings added to allow any hop mass that gets caught up in the transfer to settle. The finings (very small amount) will also help out a bit with clearing up the beer, which can get hazy from the dry hops. I would leave in tertiary for 2-3 days and then rack to the keg.

I am sure others have different methods that work for them.

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Old 07-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #74
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I dry hop ale with pellets loose in the primary after fermentation has slowed, for about another 7-10 days. I typically see an increase in bubbling, but I thought it might be natural carbonation releasing due to additional nucleation sites. I typically use gelatin to clear the beer before bottling or kegging.

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Old 07-07-2010, 08:21 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnmir View Post
I dry hop ale with pellets loose in the primary after fermentation has slowed, for about another 7-10 days. I typically see an increase in bubbling, but I thought it might be natural carbonation releasing due to additional nucleation sites. I typically use gelatin to clear the beer before bottling or kegging.
This is what I was thinking was going on with mine - I typically don't care too much about racking to a secondary anyways - so I just eyeball my airlock and rack when I feel like it's slowed significantly. I typically don't take sample gravity readings to make that determination. I am planning on racking to a third fermenter tomorrow night, then kegging on Sunday - that'll be a total of 22 days in fermentation. 10 primary, 12 secondary.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:42 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Grasslands View Post
This is what I was thinking was going on with mine - I typically don't care too much about racking to a secondary anyways - so I just eyeball my airlock and rack when I feel like it's slowed significantly. I typically don't take sample gravity readings to make that determination. I am planning on racking to a third fermenter tomorrow night, then kegging on Sunday - that'll be a total of 22 days in fermentation. 10 primary, 12 secondary.
Gas flowing through an airlock does not give any indication when a fermentation is finished. To KNOW rather than guess, you need to take hydrometer readings two to three days in a row. If you want to make consistent beer, this is one of the steps you should go through.

Beer doesn't care about how much time it spends in a jug. It cares about how much sugar the yeast start with and how much is left after they are done. The only way to KNOW that is to measure.

Good luck with your brew.
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:43 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne1 View Post
Gas flowing through an airlock does not give any indication when a fermentation is finished. To KNOW rather than guess, you need to take hydrometer readings two to three days in a row. If you want to make consistent beer, this is one of the steps you should go through.

Beer doesn't care about how much time it spends in a jug. It cares about how much sugar the yeast start with and how much is left after they are done. The only way to KNOW that is to measure.

Good luck with your brew.
Oh, I know all that. I just typically don't do it. Time constraints and other factors have been an influence - however when I want to KNOW as you put it, I do take a hydrometer sample over the course of a few days. I just don't always do it.
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Old 07-10-2010, 04:32 PM   #78
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1 ounce is good. I would toss them in the secondary then rack the beer of top of them. After about 5 days cold crash for the last 2 days before transferring to the keg. This will drop most of the hops out of suspension so less particles will make it to the keg.
I have another beer fermenting too so I have to plan my cold crash timing for both beers, so I was thinking of doing the dry hop for 7 days @ 66°-67° and then cold crashing for 2-3 days @ 38°, then kegging... Does that sound good?
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:02 PM   #79
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I kegged my dryhopped (pellet) batch last night and man, it was definitely a PITA.

However, for those of you with an autosiphon, I figured out an easier way - at least for me - to filter out those pesky hops. It's been suggested on here to put a sanitized grain or hop bag over the tip of the siphon and wrap a rubber band around it. I tried this and the only thing I was able to achieve, aside from filtering the hops, was aeration. I'm not sure if that's been any one else's experience, but it put me on edge...especially when I've tried to clone my favorite beer (two-hearted).

Anyways, I figured out an easier way to minimize aeration from the bag and still achieve a decent filter. I just wrapped the bag around the other end of the tubing from the siphon and made sure there was space in between the end of the bag and the end of the tube. The bag rested on top of the beer in the keg so aeration was minimal, if at all. When I finished, I had a bag with a ton of hop residue in it. (this was after transferring into a bottling bucket first, then transferring to a keg)

That being said, I'm definitely going to use whole hops in the future for dryhopping.

Just my .02

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Old 07-20-2010, 05:46 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grasslands View Post
I kegged my dryhopped (pellet) batch last night and man, it was definitely a PITA.

However, for those of you with an autosiphon, I figured out an easier way - at least for me - to filter out those pesky hops. It's been suggested on here to put a sanitized grain or hop bag over the tip of the siphon and wrap a rubber band around it. I tried this and the only thing I was able to achieve, aside from filtering the hops, was aeration. I'm not sure if that's been any one else's experience, but it put me on edge...especially when I've tried to clone my favorite beer (two-hearted).

Anyways, I figured out an easier way to minimize aeration from the bag and still achieve a decent filter. I just wrapped the bag around the other end of the tubing from the siphon and made sure there was space in between the end of the bag and the end of the tube. The bag rested on top of the beer in the keg so aeration was minimal, if at all. When I finished, I had a bag with a ton of hop residue in it. (this was after transferring into a bottling bucket first, then transferring to a keg)

That being said, I'm definitely going to use whole hops in the future for dryhopping.

Just my .02
Put the hops in a nylon stocking and tie off the end before you drop them in to dry hop.
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