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Old 05-17-2011, 05:32 PM   #21
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Okay, 5 days later and still chugging away with a nice frothy head. Now down to about 1.016 and a sample indicates it's certainly dried out (no surprise there). I'm hoping it will stop fermenting soon, as it's quite dry enough already. Since 1056 is supposed to be viable up to 11%, it's going to be unfazed by the ~7% I'm headed toward.

If it keeps going much below 1.015, I think I'm going to want to stomp it out by heating up to 180' F. That should kill off the enzyme activity, yes? But what about the yeast? Would I then need new yeast at bottling?
At this point the enzymes have likely already broken down all of the sugar. They finished their job a long time. Heated it really wouldn't do anything other than maybe kill off the yeast that are working.
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:54 PM   #22
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Mashed at 170, pitched yeast from 4 Sierra bottles (which aren't even bottle conditioned, but are krausened), racked to secondary at 1.037, and now are considering raising beer temp to 180...honestly man, I hate to say this, but you should probably stick to buying beer.

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Old 05-17-2011, 06:03 PM   #23
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Mashed at 170, pitched yeast from 4 Sierra bottles (which aren't even bottle conditioned, but are krausened), racked to secondary at 1.037, and now are considering raising beer temp to 180...honestly man, I hate to say this, but you should probably stick to buying beer.
Hey, it was the first time back at it in 10 years - I was a little rusty. FWIW, would it surprise you to know that I medaled in every homebrew competition I ever entered?
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:07 PM   #24
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At this point the enzymes have likely already broken down all of the sugar. They finished their job a long time. Heated it really wouldn't do anything other than maybe kill off the yeast that are working.
Got it, that makes sense. I'll just let it finish off and see whatever it ends at, so be it. Thanks...
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:10 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by beerkrump
+1 to #3

If you are using a cooler for a tun, try this. Add your 180°-170° water (this will change depending upon your strike temp and what the heat sink is of your equipment), wait ten minutes for the tun to warm and the water to drop. It should drop about 10°. Add your grain and stir like crazy. Wait five minutes and check your temps again. You should be around your target temp, adjust as needed. Open a beer and wait an hour.
Agreed. I have good luck with that strain at 70 degrees myself.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:15 PM   #26
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would it surprise you to know that I medaled in every homebrew competition I ever entered?
yes

I'm just giving you a hard time, but here is my FWIW: Only culture yeast from bottles that is hard or impossible to obtain otherwise. 1056 is readily available in both liquid and dry form from anywhere you can buy brewing supplies. Also, never raise the temp of your beer to 180 after fermentation...EVER. In fact, just for fun try heating up a bottle of your favorite beer that high for any length of time and then taste it. Fermented beer is not meant to be cooked.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:47 PM   #27
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Also, never raise the temp of your beer to 180 after fermentation...EVER.
Oh, I thoroughly realize that would have been an unusual step - there's already been a few of those with this batch - and since it's been pointed out that it wouldn't have achieved the results I was after, it's not something I'll be doing. But lest you forget, most commercial beers are pasteurized, so it's not such a terrible thing. Mind you, I too don't drink most beers subjected to such a process (i.e. MillerBudCoors), but I think the process isn't nearly as harmful as you suggest.
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:19 PM   #28
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So I'm interested in hearing how this all worked out for you, did the enzyme bring it down to a good place or go right down to 1.000?

I ask as I've got basically the same thing happening, I had my stout hit 164 or so during the mash accidentally (residual stove element heat, I think) and didn't catch it for 15 minutes. Now my 1.052 OG has dropped to 1.030 and visually nothing else is happening in there.

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Old 06-01-2011, 03:35 PM   #29
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So I'm interested in hearing how this all worked out for you, did the enzyme bring it down to a good place or go right down to 1.000?
Good timing, as the fermentation has finally petered out and I was actually thinking about bottling today. When I checked it a couple days ago it was at 1.012 and tasted pretty good. Certainly on the dry side, but I'm sure it will be entirely drink-able with a reasonably high alcohol content.

BTW, as cheap as it was to get a pound, that's how much of the enzyme I bought, which I'll certainly never use all of. So if someone's passing through the Rockland County area and wants to bring me some homebrew to evaluate I'll send you home with a couple ounces of enzyme.

In hindsight, I'm thinking my issue may have been as much the age of the grain as the high temperature. It tasted fine but I bet it's lost it's enzyme punch. Next time I'll try using the enzyme in the mash.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:02 PM   #30
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Well that's good, glad it seems to be working out! Did you get your amylase at your LHBS or do you think it's something that can be found at a heath food store or something? Our local brew supply shops here are pretty wine-centric...

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