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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > storing wort
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Old 03-22-2011, 05:44 PM   #11
cactusgarrett
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I throw leftover wort from my all-grain mashes into gallon freezer bags and freeze. Then, when i want to do a starter, i just thaw, boil, chill & pitch. The runnings i collect are typically around 1.020, but the longer i boil, the closer to 1.040 i get.

I've found this procedure to work pretty well, and i've been able to use the wort weeks and sometimes months after initial freezing.

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Old 03-22-2011, 07:50 PM   #12
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I throw leftover wort from my all-grain mashes into gallon freezer bags and freeze. Then, when i want to do a starter, i just thaw, boil, chill & pitch. The runnings i collect are typically around 1.020, but the longer i boil, the closer to 1.040 i get.

I've found this procedure to work pretty well, and i've been able to use the wort weeks and sometimes months after initial freezing.
Awesome idea...
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:36 PM   #13
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I used to can starters and use them months later, no issues. Dave Miller talks about it this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Worlds.../dp/0882667769

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Old 03-22-2011, 08:54 PM   #14
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I used to can starters and use them months later, no issues. Dave Miller talks about it this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Worlds.../dp/0882667769
I would advise against using the method of canning that is recommended in this book (Miller recommends using a water bath).

Wort is not acidic enough to prevent botulism spores, and the water bath method does not heat the wort to a high enough temperature. I believe 240 degrees is needed to kill the spores, and boiling at 212, even for a long time, will not kill do the job. To safely can wort, a 15psi pressure cooker should be used to get to 240 (250 is better) and held there for at least 15 minutes.

If you use the water bath method, at the very least, keep the jars in the fridge below 40 degrees as that should slow the down the spores reproduction process.
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Old 03-23-2011, 03:50 AM   #15
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It is amazing how you can post something on page 1, and somebody else completely ignores it and recommends dangerous procedures. Then somebody else needs to come in on page 2 and repeat said warning message. Rinse and repeat.

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Old 03-23-2011, 05:21 PM   #16
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I would advise against using the method of canning that is recommended in this book (Miller recommends using a water bath).

Wort is not acidic enough to prevent botulism spores, and the water bath method does not heat the wort to a high enough temperature. I believe 240 degrees is needed to kill the spores, and boiling at 212, even for a long time, will not kill do the job. To safely can wort, a 15psi pressure cooker should be used to get to 240 (250 is better) and held there for at least 15 minutes.

If you use the water bath method, at the very least, keep the jars in the fridge below 40 degrees as that should slow the down the spores reproduction process.
You're probably right. I never had an issue, but it doesn't mean I won't. This type of info wasn't as easily available when I was brewing years ago. Since I started brewing again, I've just been using the Activator packs and avoiding starters, but when I brew bigger beers, I'll have to do starters again.
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Old 03-23-2011, 07:15 PM   #17
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For what it's worth, I just make my starters from DME. Boil some water, add the DME, boil fora few more minutes, chill and pitch yeast. Decant off the water after crashing. Mix and pitch to wort. This is my method today. It's easy for me since I simply have to store the DME.

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Old 03-23-2011, 07:32 PM   #18
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Like, cactusgarrett, I put any leftover wort from my last batch (usually a pint or two) into a plastic container and put this in the refrigerator. I allow the hops to settle and separate from the liquid for a day or two. Then I transfer the liquid into a plastic 1 liter bottle and freeze.

When I need a starter, I just take out a plastic bottle, let it thaw, boil, cool and use.

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