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Old 07-21-2012, 05:32 PM   #11
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Default I ust this site for mash/sparge procedure

I use this as a general rule and direction for getting my volumes right. It is generic and each user needs to tweek it to their own equipment and recipe...but it works as a simple guideline everytime for me.

http://www.suebob.com/index.php?opti...cles&Itemid=66

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Old 07-22-2012, 12:00 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by hercher
Figure about 1.25 gallons per pound of grain for the mash, and about 1/2 gallon per pound for the sparge.

There is some great information here and here.

If you are fly sparge, take a reading from the first runnings from the mash tun. It will be very high, perhaps somewhere between 1.080 and 1.100. Take another reading from the last runnings -- that should be quite low, not more than 1.010. The closer you can get that to 1.000 the better.
It is suggested in several texts that when nearing the end of your run off not go past 1.006 to prevent extracting harsh tannins from the husks.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:12 AM   #13
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It is suggested in several texts that when nearing the end of your run off not go past 1.006 to prevent extracting harsh tannins from the husks.
Actually, my rule of thumb is to not go below 1.010- if you go lower, you may have some pH issues and extract some tannins and have some astringency in the finished beer. Also, remember that adding that low of runnings to your wort will dilute the wort and lower the OG.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:52 AM   #14
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Everywhere I've read as well as some pro brewers said 1.006-1.008 was the point where the tannins are extracted, but regardless what the magic number you are right about the pH. Once it starts to change its time to stop the run off. Most of the time I find I hit my preboil volume when the run off is around 1.013 so I've never needed to truly test these theories, and I do 90 minute boils.

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Old 07-22-2012, 02:56 PM   #15
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Most of the time I find I hit my preboil volume when the run off is around 1.013 so I've never needed to truly test these theories, and I do 90 minute boils.
same here - I get my kettle to where I need before I hit 1010 normally.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:05 AM   #16
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another question, lets say that when preboil gravity is 1.046 and I want 1.052, what can I do? Also, I moticed that if I add 1.25qts of water per pound the grains arent covered completely by the water so I guess they aren't converting sugars right? what do.I do? sparging is complicated isnt best.to. bre with grain filters?

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Old 09-23-2012, 03:43 AM   #17
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another question, lets say that when preboil gravity is 1.046 and I want 1.052, what can I do? Also, I moticed that if I add 1.25qts of water per pound the grains arent covered completely by the water so I guess they aren't converting sugars right? what do.I do? sparging is complicated isnt best.to. bre with grain filters?
Question#1: if your pre-boil is lower than you want your mash efficiency is off and you can either add DME to the boil or boil longer to concentrate the wort to your desired OG but you'll get less beer.

Question#2up the water to 1.5qt/lb. be sure that you stir well as you add the grains and prevent dough balls which can effect efficiency as well.

For improving your efficiency check the quality of the crush and be sure to stir well when dough in and stir again half way. If batch sparging be sure to stir really well prior to draining the wort to knock the sugars and try to use 180-190F water for the sparge as well.

If you are not killing your own grains then ask the LHBS to crush twice or tighten the gap for you.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:54 AM   #18
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whTs DME?

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Old 09-23-2012, 04:20 AM   #19
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whTs DME?
Dry malt extract. LME is liquid malt extract
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