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Old 01-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #41
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This is a really interesting thread for me as my efficiency has been low and I believe the culprit to be using too much sparge water at once. I added just under 5 gallons and ended up with 1.030 - expected was 1.050ish. I am happy to see that the speed of the draining doesn't matter as I don't have a valve installed yet (possibly doing today with toilet braid.

I am using a 5 Gallon cylindrical cooler in a paint straining bag and I am using 10lb grain bills. I still had about 1.5 gallons of dead space so I want to increase my grain bill but I am worried that too much grain may hurt my conversion.

My next batch I am going to do a 2 or 3 step sparge after draining mash tun. Adding 1.83 gallons for each rinse. My question is how long do I let the sparge rest before draining?

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Old 01-21-2013, 03:35 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by histo320
This is a really interesting thread for me as my efficiency has been low and I believe the culprit to be using too much sparge water at once. I added just under 5 gallons and ended up with 1.030 - expected was 1.050ish. I am happy to see that the speed of the draining doesn't matter as I don't have a valve installed yet (possibly doing today with toilet braid.

I am using a 5 Gallon cylindrical cooler in a paint straining bag and I am using 10lb grain bills. I still had about 1.5 gallons of dead space so I want to increase my grain bill but I am worried that too much grain may hurt my conversion.

My next batch I am going to do a 2 or 3 step sparge after draining mash tun. Adding 1.83 gallons for each rinse. My question is how long do I let the sparge rest before draining?
99% of the time someone reports low efficiency it is because they are getting poorly milled grain. I've gotten poorly milled grain before and gotten 35% efficiency. After getting my own mill, I clock 75-80% every time using the same process.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:41 PM   #43
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My next batch I am going to do a 2 or 3 step sparge after draining mash tun. Adding 1.83 gallons for each rinse. My question is how long do I let the sparge rest before draining?
It doesn't need to rest; it just needs to mix. How long that takes depends on how good your stirring arm is.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #44
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And you beat it like it owes you money....And then stir it some more.

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Old 01-21-2013, 04:00 PM   #45
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Obviously starting the boil with a higher temp wort means less flame time to get to boil and less chance of scorching. This is important for my personal brewing.

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Old 01-22-2013, 02:33 AM   #46
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99% of the time someone reports low efficiency it is because they are getting poorly milled grain. I've gotten poorly milled grain before and gotten 35% efficiency. After getting my own mill, I clock 75-80% every time using the same process.
I actually crush my own grain. IMO I think I crush it to what I seen on pictures here. I use a Corona Mill set to about the width of a credit card. Is this okay or should I run it through twice. I'm not sure but is it possible to crush grain too much?
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:18 AM   #47
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I actually crush my own grain. IMO I think I crush it to what I seen on pictures here. I use a Corona Mill set to about the width of a credit card. Is this okay or should I run it through twice. I'm not sure but is it possible to crush grain too much?
I'm no expert on corona mills but when I used to get my grain crushed at my LHBS I would get around 65-70%eff. I was never really happy witht he crush but I couldn't accurately adjust it to where I wanted it to be. Fast foward to about 14 months ago I bought a barley crusher and set my gap to .034 inches which is a bit on the tight side but I have never had a stuck sparge though the vourlauf can be a bit much and I have sat steady at 85% eff ever since even going as high as 90% on 1 occasion. I am a strong believer in your crush will directly influence your overall eff. as well as a good mill makes all the difference.
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