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Old 09-16-2009, 12:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Sorry...but this type of braid is too fine...the build post finally closed by saying that the sheathing type braid is perhaps too fine a filter. I had a hunch that this build was a "better mouse trap", of course you needed a spring inside a piece of finely woven soft ss sheathing.

Switch it out for a water heater supply braid and report back...those things are bullet proof!

Sound to me perhaps you had an inferior braid both times.
I think Wilser hit the nail on the head, I was using a braid that was too fine also, it was strong as heck, wouldnt collapse, but it would not let the liquid through, I second the other opinion, go to lowes and get a standard water supply line in ss, take out the hose inside, and dont put a thing inside it, it will not collapse, crimp the end real good, and you will be worry free, good luck.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:45 AM   #22
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I had braid problems, HAD. Instead of straight braid, i ended up using a longer piece of supply hose and now my braid runs the inner circuference of the mash tun. I brewed a wheat beer that consisted of 60% wheat, 40% pilsner, and a handful of rice hulls and the wort was flowing strong! Do a search for "circular braid"

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Old 09-16-2009, 01:52 AM   #23
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I thought everyone used a circular braid. When I designed my MLT it didn't even occur to me to use a straight one. Maybe that's the difference. Although, I am conscious about not opening the valve too wide right away. I open it a little, let the grain settle a bit, and then gradually open it wider as it goes along.

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Old 09-16-2009, 02:08 AM   #24
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I use a copper manifold and have only had one stuck sparge in the last 20 AG batches. I think it was due to starting the sparge too quickly, causing the suction to clog the holes before a filter bed could be achieved. I recommend mashing out with boiling water to 170F and then starting the sparge slowly. I am switching to a 15 gal keggle as my mash tun with a false bottom, which I'm sure will be a whole new ballgame.

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Old 09-16-2009, 06:19 AM   #25
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my cpvc manifold cost me maybe 8$ i just did the biggest cover for the bottom of my mlt (igloo 5 gal) and cheaply connected it to the valve ..


i have maybe 5 feet of cpvc left so i can just reuse for my bigger future mlt build

i cut many slits with a dremil tool aboiut every 1/4 inch apart

never a stuck sparge o anything i get good flow and good effencensy
just get the connector pieces you need and cut the pipe and never used anything to bond the pieces i have no plan to ever go ss braid or copper cpvc is so easy and cheap to work with

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Old 09-16-2009, 06:35 AM   #26
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FWIW, I subscribed to the crush proof braid thread, and like someone earlier stated the mesh is too fine.

Personally, I went with the 3/4" SS water heater supply braid, and I put a 3/4" copper pipe cap in the end. I placed a hose clamp to close it off and weight it, as well as, "crimp" or close off then end, works freakin great!

I would go w/ 3/4" SS braid if you are going the braid route.

If it is relevant, I got 81% brewhouse efficincy on my first AG with my mash tun and process.

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Old 09-21-2009, 07:25 PM   #27
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Thanks to all! I'm sort of glad that its not my technique. I actually have another SS braid that was for some sort of water supply that i bought at homedepot but it's only 1/2 inch. I'm going to take the advice here and buy a nice long 3/4" SS peice of water heater supply tubing.
Jagg - any harm in still using my SS spring to help keep a bit of the stability?


Thanks to everyone! Next batch soon so I'll report back after i use my new gear.

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Old 09-21-2009, 08:22 PM   #28
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To those who have posted that the braid from the crushroof thread is too fine, I disagree. I've used that exact config on 8 straight batches, and have had great success. I did have one stuck sparge, but that was due to it being the first time I used a march pump, not the braid.

It definitely is finer than the supply lines you get at HD, but it is definitely useable.

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Old 09-21-2009, 08:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevea1210 View Post
To those who have posted that the braid from the crushroof thread is too fine, I disagree. I've used that exact config on 8 straight batches, and have had great success. I did have one stuck sparge, but that was due to it being the first time I used a march pump, not the braid.

It definitely is finer than the supply lines you get at HD, but it is definitely useable.
what type of beers are you brewing? Are u using alot of wheats, flaked grain?
I think that's the combination that is causing slow runoffs.
I agree that it definetely is usable but it's probably better - at least for me -to just run to Lowes and go with the more porous braid.
I'm sick of holding my breath every time i turn that valve for the first time
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javajo91 View Post
10 gallon Gott MLT with SS 16" braid.

OK - 4 batches in to my AG brewing.
3 troublesome runoffs..

Not sure if its just my lack of experience, my technique or my milling...
Using MaltMill set at .045.

English style bitter - no issues with runoff
Cream ale - nightmare runoff
Wit - bad but not too bad..
Oatmeal Stout - bad until i added boiling water and gave a good stir.

I think a big part of my problem may be not mashing out at a high enough temp...especially when using alot of adjuncts. I never reach 170 before sparging..

I'm sure that technique is everything with sparging to prevent a stuck runoff.
And I'm sure a bottom slit manifold while giving up a bit of efficiency would provide more trouble free runoffs...

I built my current setup and would like to keep it but I'm starting to get frustrated with sparging..

Can anyone chime in with their opinions as to braid vs. manifold?
I've done all my AG batches (only 6, to date) with nothing but the braid that came with my Bargain Fittings MLT conversion kit. It's large diameter braid, maybe 8-9 inches long. It works fine, lauters like a storm drain, wort is plenty clear. All I can say.
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