Bobby_M

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Anything with more than say 10% non barley grains should get a handful of rice hulls. If you're batch sparging, use 185F sparge water. If you fly, mashout with boiling water at a volume that gets you to 170F before sparging.

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AZ_IPA

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are you absolutely sure it's SS? We've had posts in the past where the person thought they had SS, but it was something else - and they all had run-off problems.

Also, did you use a support tube inside of it? Or just using the braid? If you're using a support tube - maybe you need more holes?

weirdboy

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+1 on no problems with runoff using a SS braid. You could still be getting compaction problems, etc. regardless of whether you're using a SS braid or a manifold. Are you just cranking the valve open when you vorlauf/sparge?

javajo91

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AZ_IPA
Yep - ordered from McMaster Carr - Stainless Steel. This is my second design that i got from another member on this site. 16" SS braid and compression spring inside to keep from collapsing. No need to punch holes in it...
My first design was 12" SS braid from Home Depot that i had to pull the inside out of. That collapsed on me although my stirring and whacking the thing did not help..
For all you guys that use a SS braid and do not have stuck runoffs are you mashing out at 170 or somewhere around there? I think that's what I'm missing in my process...

javajo91

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weirdboy -

Hmm - compacting...perhaps I'm using too much initial strike water...and it's too heavy initially.
Nope - opening valve VERY slowly..

AZ_IPA

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No mash out for me - no rice hulls either, but I also do mostly all barley beers.

I also open the valve wide open.

do you have a hose coming off your spigot? If so, how long? I think the consensus is you need a long hose to really get a good suction going.

Joos

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I use a SS braid with no support.Bought it from HD.The first one I got was was some sort of synthetic grrr.Never had a stuck sparge.I just did a pumpkin 2 weeks ago with a handful of rice hulls.And an oatmeal stout this past weekend with 2lbs. oats and no rice hulls.I can squish the crap out of that thing and it wont collapse.If you have a good seal(no grains going into the ball valve) then I don't know what to tell ya.Try going to HD or lowes or where ever and get a "flood safe" hose.

javajo91

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Az ipa
Yep. I have about a five foot hose coming off the valve. I am afraid to to open my valve up to quickly for fear of compacting the bed....but this is what u do?

AZ_IPA

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yes, I open it full throttle - vorlauf until clear (usually 1/2 gallon or so); close the valve; add the vorlaufed liquid back the HLT and let 'er rip.

wilserbrewer

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Sorry...but this type of braid is too fine...the build post finally closed by saying that the sheathing type braid is perhaps too fine a filter. I had a hunch that this build was a "better mouse trap", of course you needed a spring inside a piece of finely woven soft SS sheathing.

Switch it out for a water heater supply braid and report back...those things are bullet proof!

Sound to me perhaps you had an inferior braid both times.

post 44...see link below
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mlt-cooler-conversion-crushproof-braid-122433/index5.html

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