Schmilding malt mills. Are they worth the money?

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jerryteague

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I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a malt mill, and have narrowed it down to 2 brands. I'll either be buying a Monster mill (MM2) or a Schmilding adjustable mill. I have to order the Monster, but my LHBS has the Schmilding mill in stock. Which would you guys choose, and why?
 
I bought the non-adjustable JSP about 8 years ago. It was one of the best brewing related buys I ever made, has given my no problems, and has milled about 2000 lbs grain during that time

-a.
 
I bought a Schmidling non-adjustable and have been very happy. I just mill my adjuncts and other hull-less grains in a $25 Corona mill, and grind with the Maltmill for the rest.

If I were to do it again, I would order the base adjustable from their Barebones page, and use leftover materials to build the base and hopper deck.
 
I've been looking at these also. Do you owners use the hand crank, a drill or have you motorized your mill?
 
newnick said:
I've been looking at these also. Do you owners use the hand crank, a drill or have you motorized your mill?

I use either the hand crank or a cordless drill and either way makes short work and a good crush on my non adjustable Schmidling that I got used from a friend
 
Add me to the list of very happy Schmidling Malt Mill users. I've run a LOT of grain through it. Never had a single issue. I use a corded 7A drill with it. I have also use a cordless without any issue.

My mill is adjustable on one end. I like this. I dial it as tight as it goes for rye, which is a thin grain.
 
Awesome. I've been leaning toward the Schmilding adjustable. Guess I'll be buying one later this week when I get back home from work on Wednesday. Thanks guys!
 
I've been using the JSP adjustable mill for about two years, I love it. I hand crank. I'd suggest attaching to a better base, the particular board will give out over time (I have a tight grind as I BIAB). As a matter if fact I broke my base tonight hand crank some flaked corn adjuncts.


- John
 
My LHBS has a JSP Maltmill (adjustable) out for customers to use, and it performs great after years of use from so many people. I always told myself "whenever I buy a mill, I'm getting one like THAT!" And yes, I finally just broke down and bought one so that I could run it at home and with a drill.
 
Denny said:
I use a cordless drill.

I have been using a cordless on mine too. Last batch I noticed that the stub the crank (or the drill) tightens down on has been worn smooth. I can hardly get the chuck on my drill to grab it anymore. Any one else have this issue?
 
One of the reasons I motorized that and the higher torque

image-1462701696.jpg
 
I have been using a cordless on mine too. Last batch I noticed that the stub the crank (or the drill) tightens down on has been worn smooth. I can hardly get the chuck on my drill to grab it anymore. Any one else have this issue?

Wow, mine was smooth when I got the mill.
 
Wow, mine was smooth when I got the mill.

Mine was flattened on two opposing sides just a bit so that the hand crank set screw sat tight against the stub. Now I have a hell of a time getting it to grab since it is a perfectly smooth cylinder...
 
beaksnbeer said:
Ok still think I'll keep my JSP with it's 10 inch rollers

I have a question, has anyone (everyone) else removed the safety guards the are over the rollers to allow more grain to be crushed along the length of the mill?

-John
 
I considered removing the clear plastic deflectors, but realized that it would surely increase the torque requirement by a lot since you'd then be crushing grain down the entire length. Since I'm using just the Harbor Freight low-speed drill, I decided against it to help preserve the drill.
 
I considered removing the clear plastic deflectors, but realized that it would surely increase the torque requirement by a lot since you'd then be crushing grain down the entire length. Since I'm using just the Harbor Freight low-speed drill, I decided against it to help preserve the drill.

Yeah, I left those in, but I removed the black plastic grid between them.
 
Is there any instruction manual or anything for the proper adjustment? What each adjustment knob for? I bought Malt Mill from a guy I know, his girlfriend's ex-husband was a homebrewer and she had a ton of **** to get rid of. But I don't know if the adjustment is right and I've tried to use with my cordless but hasn't been the most smooth. Maybe I just need to find a tutorial.

Mine has the 2 yellow adjustable knobs.
 
The correct adjustment is the one that produces a good crush for you. That will depend on the equipment you use. There is no single "correct" setting. FWIW, I closed the gap on MM all the way, then opened it until I could just barely see the rollers move. That's where it's been for the last 13 years.
 
The correct adjustment is the one that produces a good crush for you. That will depend on the equipment you use. There is no single "correct" setting. FWIW, I closed the gap on MM all the way, then opened it until I could just barely see the rollers move. That's where it's been for the last 13 years.

Come on, Denny, you know you want to adjust them now, just fiddle with it a little . . .

;)

Seriously, I appreciate your discipline, Denny. I went with the non-adjustable version of the Malt Mill because I know I would muck it up with endless adjustments and self-doubting.
 
Come on, Denny, you know you want to adjust them now, just fiddle with it a little . . .

;)

Seriously, I appreciate your discipline, Denny. I went with the non-adjustable version of the Malt Mill because I know I would muck it up with endless adjustments and self-doubting.

See, I HATE messing with gear...building it, adjusting it...I far prefer USING it to brew beer. I did some testing to find the right mill setting. Why would I want to waste more time changing it? ;)
 
I turned my rollers all the way down, as tight as they would go. I think it must be less than 30 mil. I'm not making too much flour, but I am getting a fairly fine grind. I don't get stuck sparges, so works for me. BTW, mine only adjusts on one end.
 
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