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Old 05-01-2006, 02:41 AM   #21
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thats funny i was looking at your gallery yesterday, and was admiring the dark blue cooler. Did you convert that one yourself?

and you had boiling water in the other one and no warpage?

(ill be sure NOT to burn myself thanks for the caveat!)

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Old 05-01-2006, 02:44 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg
Thats an Ice Cube. They look real cool and inicially I was thinking there would be too much space, but when mine warps thats what I'll get. Dont get it on Ebay though if it goes to much above that price. Wallmart has them for I think.....$20....cant recall but it was real close to $20.
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Old 05-01-2006, 02:48 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by GOD
Thats an Ice Cube. They look real cool and inicially I was thinking there would be too much space, but when mine warps thats what I'll get. Dont get it on Ebay though if it goes to much above that price. Wallmart has them for I think.....$20....cant recall but it was real close to $20.
yeah im not gonna get that one, it looks like the manifold will either float, or get knocked out of place when stirring...thats what i like about the n. brewer set up: it has a stainless false bottom, and the brass ball valves...im just weary of warpage, ill be pissed if it warps to the point of not being able to use it!
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Old 05-01-2006, 03:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg
thats funny i was looking at your gallery yesterday, and was admiring the dark blue cooler. Did you convert that one yourself?

and you had boiling water in the other one and no warpage?

(ill be sure NOT to burn myself thanks for the caveat!)
Yeah the blue on is the rubbermaid and it was real easy to convert once I convinced myself to just buy the damm Kewler Kit and not try to find the parts. That was hell. The only problem with the igloo is that on the top it is one dimention and on the bottom its smaller. It gets narrower as you go down. So inicially I had a plastic false bottom and sanded it down a bit to fit but then had other problems with it and finally got the SS false bottom which is real nice actually.

Just doing some math here.....

2 Rubbermaid 5 Gal coolers roughly 20 per.... $40
SS false bottom was like .....around.....$25
Kewler Kit was around.......................$30
Extra fitting, teflon tape and hose .... around........$10 (even number)
--------------------------------------------------------
$105

This is my setup here, because folks here seemed to go on about batch sparging that you dont need a sparger. So I did not get one. But SS spargers run around $25 ish... You still dont come close to $160 though. Certainly nowhere near $200.
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Old 05-01-2006, 04:44 AM   #25
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160 is approaching 2 hundy..AND its 2 for the 10 g. not the 5 g...i dont mind spending the 200...IF IT DOESNT WARP!!!

so does the stainless sparge arm work better then the plasic one? ive heard about the plastics only working with fast flows wich seems counter productive to me...i want a nice S-L-O-W flow for sparge...i do fly sparge now, with a ladle and patience i get about 70 percent E. with my set up...

im not too keen on batch sparge. i feel there HAS to be a reason slow, spray type sparges are the norm...

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Old 05-01-2006, 05:19 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg

so does the stainless sparge arm work better then the plasic one? ive heard about the plastics only working with fast flows wich seems counter productive to me...i want a nice S-L-O-W flow for sparge...i do fly sparge now, with a ladle and patience i get about 70 percent E. with my set up...
Is the listermann whirlygig the one you consider plastic?

I have that one and the only parts that touch the sparge water are copper. The T that fits over the lauter-tun is CPVC, but it never touches the mash or the sparge water. It is a great value. Works awesome.

You
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:19 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg

so does the stainless sparge arm work better then the plasic one? ive heard about the plastics only working with fast flows wich seems counter productive to me...i want a nice S-L-O-W flow for sparge...i do fly sparge now, with a ladle and patience i get about 70 percent E. with my set up...
Is the listermann whirlygig the one you consider plastic?

I have that one and the only parts that touch the sparge water are copper. The T that fits over the lauter-tun is CPVC, but it never touches the mash or the sparge water. It is a great value. Works awesome.

You hve
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Old 05-01-2006, 05:19 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg

so does the stainless sparge arm work better then the plasic one? ive heard about the plastics only working with fast flows wich seems counter productive to me...i want a nice S-L-O-W flow for sparge...i do fly sparge now, with a ladle and patience i get about 70 percent E. with my set up...
Is the listermann whirlygig the one you consider plastic?

I have that one and the only parts that touch the sparge water are copper. The T that fits over the lauter-tun is CPVC, but it never touches the mash or the sparge water. It is a great value. Works awesome.
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Old 05-01-2006, 11:00 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bjorn Borg
160 is approaching 2 hundy..AND its 2 for the 10 g. not the 5 g...i dont mind spending the 200...IF IT DOESNT WARP!!!

so does the stainless sparge arm work better then the plasic one? ive heard about the plastics only working with fast flows wich seems counter productive to me...i want a nice S-L-O-W flow for sparge...i do fly sparge now, with a ladle and patience i get about 70 percent E. with my set up...

im not too keen on batch sparge. i feel there HAS to be a reason slow, spray type sparges are the norm...
Two 10s would be good. At the time I wass thinking of this stuff I thought I would have to go Partial cause I dont have one large pot. Now that thats cleared away I thiiink I'd get the ice cube to use as the Mash/Turn. There is one thing I forgot to say about the Rubbermaid. The top screws on. They dont push on like the igloo. Was not terrible, but was a pain at times.
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dude
Is the listermann whirlygig the one you consider plastic?

I have that one and the only parts that touch the sparge water are copper. The T that fits over the lauter-tun is CPVC, but it never touches the mash or the sparge water. It is a great value. Works awesome.
yeah i dont know which ones actually have a bad rep. i was just guessing the plastic one, cuz thats what a friend of mine had.

is the listerman the 'phils sparge arm'? is that a good one?

i guess im just wondering which one NOT to get...i figured stainless would be better...or copper.
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