The Pol

Recipes 

Okay, so I am going to start using rice hulls. Although my system does not get stuck often, when it does, it makes life hard when using a system that lives on being able to recirc.

So, I am going to start using some rice hulls so that I can whack the valves open and let it scream.

Question, how many hulls would I need to let a typical 10lb mash flow nice and free?

Wouldnt I have to add these to my "grain" bill in ProMash so that I can account for the thermal mass so that I can get the correct strike temp?

Along those same lines... wouldnt I have to account for thier water absorption?

Just making sure. I have created Rice Hulls as an ingredient in ProMash so that I can add them to the grain bill so that they can be accounted for in the strike temp, strike volume and water absorption.... RIGHT?

Blender

Recipes 

You won't need more than 8 ounces for that grainbill. I always soak and rinse them prior to use. Then you don't have to worry about absorbtion. I don't recirculate so take that into account for my information although I can't see why it would to terribly different.

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Gary

Pappers_

Recipes 

I add 1/2 lb. in the grist, and put it in BeerSmith, which makes the necessary adjustments.

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Rick500

Recipes 

I just tossed a generous handful, probably a quarter pound, into my American wheat/rye six gallon batch. Worked like a charm.

Pre-soaking is a good idea. I didn't think of it at the time.

Revvy

Recipes 

I take a handful or two and add them to my grain then sort of hand toss them like a salad. The guys who host Craftbrewer Radio out of Australia lay it as a filter bed on top of the false bottom of their herms though...I don't quite get what their purpose doing it is...I have always thought of rice hulls like bran in our colon....it keeps everything loose.

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azscoob

Recipes 

I used 1/2 lb of hulls when I made a few batches of Hefe with no sticking issues at all, flowed like a pale ale, I soaked the hulls in the hottest tap water I could get out of my faucet, this did two things, presoaked them so I would not lose volume due to absorbtion, and two it brought the temp up to negate any thermal absorbtion as well. I soaked them for a half hour and added them from a strainer to the mash just before doughing in. this has kept my target temps inline with calculated so far.

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The Pol

Recipes 

So, it makes sense to account for thermal mass and absorption. Neither will be great with 8oz in a grist.

Today my Pils would recirc for 20 mins, then stick. Mixed the bed... recirc for 20 minutes, then stick... dont know why. Never had this problem before on my system, but I cannot tolerate it.

wildwest450

Recipes 

I rinse mine in a colander with hot water before chucking them in. You'd be surprised how much dust is on them, then no adjustments necessary.

KayaBrew

Recipes 

Nice to see that even one of the "pros" on HBT looking for advice. I've gotten a lot of good tips from you, Pol. I used 8oz of rice hulls in a recent Oatmeal Stout and Bier Muncher's Wit, and I like the results. Like Revvy said, keeps the mash nice and loose. I wetted mine good before adding to the mash to compensate for absorption, but honestly they didn't take on much water, and I doubt they took away too much heat. Good luck!

The Pol

Recipes 

I plan to brew another lager in a couple weeks... some HBTers were nice enough to send me some rice hulls today after witnessing my issue during my brewcast.

It really baffles me... NEVER had this problem before and on my MO based O-Fest and now this Pils based pilsner, I am having this sticking issue.

I really want to be able to flow at 2-3qts per minute if at all possible.

My crush was at .035", which is really reasonable.