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Old 01-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #1
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Default Quick Help Needed, BIAB low efficiency

I did my first BIAB today and the pre-boil gravity was pretty low. It was supposed to be 1.044 and it was more like 1.032. That's going to make for a pretty thin brew. It was supposed to be an American Lager, so it wasn't going to be a big beer in any case.

I ran some of the wort back through the grains in the bag a couple of times and that helped some, but at this point my plan is to boil longer to get the gravity up. I had originally expected a 5.5 gallon batch, but an extra half hour of boil should get me to 5.25 or even lower, and raise the gravity. I'm about 45 minutes into the boil at this point.

Does this sound like a good plan?



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Old 01-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #2
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I had the same issue w/effeciency until I fiqured out what it was with the mill of my grain. It turned out to be about 60%. Since you cover effeciency w/base grain, you can just add some DME/LME to make up the difference (its what I did on my first batch and won a second place medal in the State Homebrew Comp w/it). Using Brewing software down the road, you can just adjust your base grain to get to where you need to be on your OG (or use DME/LME in a pinch)



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Old 01-29-2012, 10:01 PM   #3
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Sure...boiling it down will work...my uneducated guess is that you need a finer crush.

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:01 PM   #4
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One more thing; I always do a mash out @ 170, it's worth 5 points on OG w/my system

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bschoenb View Post
One more thing; I always do a mash out @ 170, it's worth 5 points on OG w/my system
Interesting...I have wondered if this is myth or fact...thanks
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:05 PM   #6
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Thanks all. I asked for an extra fine grind, but I didn't think it was all that fine. Also, I didn't do the mash out correctly. Next time I'll watch closer. I'm going to get a basket so I'm less careful with the stirring. I was afraid of pressing on the paint bag.

I do have about 1/4 pound of DME left from my yeast starter. I wanted to keep this all grain though. I guess the yeast isn't all grain!

And I did use BeerSmith2 and it did adjust for the method, but it still expected 72% efficiency. I didn't even get close.

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:07 PM   #7
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yeah; it really is true for my BIAB system. I mill more fine then a normal three tier system... and it makes a difference for me. If I don't Mash out, then I loose anywhere between 3-5 OG points and don't hit my software prediction. A Mash out keeps me perfectly predicted w/my software.

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:11 PM   #8
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One more thing on stirring; With all the water you really don't want to stir it too much.. or the enzymes get stirred up and don't contact the grain enough (low eff?). I always mash for 75 minutes. I dough in an let it sit for 10 minutes; then I stir in a couple times and let is sit 50 minutes not touching it at all. I then do a stir again at 60 minutes and begin my mash out at 75 minutes. I always use a huge blanket "wrapping" the sides and then cover the top. I loose a couple degrees over the hour.

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Old 01-29-2012, 10:14 PM   #9
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My home mill is set to 28 thousands for 72% effeciency; and it has allot of flour. From the Homebrew shop, the fine grind got me to 65%.

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Old 01-29-2012, 11:21 PM   #10
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My LHBS didn't have a mill so I had to get my own. It about broke the bank but I was able to make up for it with the difference in the cost going all grain instead of extract. This is like the mill I got. http://www.amazon.com/Hopper-Cast-Grinder-Wheat-Grain/dp/B0038NPJVG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1327858194&sr=8-3

You might have to save up for a bit but it will raise your efficiency and you can brew even when the LHBS is closed if you have the grain on hand. The grains keep well if they aren't crushed, months to possibly years.



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