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Old 07-24-2013, 01:29 PM   #1
bobtheUKbrewer2
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Default Prevention of chill haze

First of all I am a UK brewer so I ferment 4 to 8 days, then bottle.

I have read up on the problem, and for a very pale bitter the advice seems to be:

1) add mashing water from the bottom to avoid stirring
2) mash out at 75 deg C for 20 minutes
3) do not over sparge
4) avoid splashing when transferring to boiler
5) cool as quickly as possible after boil

does anybody disagree with these and/or have any more ideas?

does anybody use papain?

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Old 07-24-2013, 01:44 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobtheUKbrewer2 View Post
First of all I am a UK brewer so I ferment 4 to 8 days, then bottle.

I have read up on the problem, and for a very pale bitter the advice seems to be:

1) add mashing water from the bottom to avoid stirring
2) mash out at 75 deg C for 20 minutes
3) do not over sparge
4) avoid splashing when transferring to boiler
5) cool as quickly as possible after boil

does anybody disagree with these and/or have any more ideas?

does anybody use papain?
I don't think #1, 2, 3, or 4 play a part at all in chill haze.

A good hot break is imperative for clear beer, and a good cold break (I use whirlfloc in the kettle) will get prevent chill haze from forming.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:42 PM   #3
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Cold crashing the beer after fermentation has completed followed by the addition of gelatin finings should help.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:30 PM   #4
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1 2 3 4 came from an expert who published - will dig out the reference and post it.

Cold crashing is not an option for me.

I boil vigorously for 60 minutes then cool down to tap water temperature in about 20 minutes.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:34 PM   #5
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Hot Side Aeration and Beer Stability by Micah Millspaw
Introduction This article was originally published in the American magazine Zymurgy and looks at hot side aeration and beer stability, the reactive effects of oxygen on hot wort and some methods for reducing the effects.

Oxidation and Melanoidins It is known that oxidation plays an important part in the formation of protein haze and that compounds known as melanoidins function as anti-oxidants and prevent the oxidation of protein. Oxidation also plays an important part in the production of colloidal haze, hence the name "oxidation haze", first coined by Helm, the German brewing scientist, in early part of this century.
Moreover, the formation of chill haze is also considerably increased by oxidation
Minimising Aeration
What can you do about hot side aeration?
There are several ways to limit aeration of your hot wort. It is best to start at the beginning, with the mash.
I will describe a mashing technique that is fairly simple, efficient and not too different from what is now common practice. Infusion mashing or step infusion in a combination mash / lauter vessel is very effective at achieving adequate starch conversion when using North American grown barley malt (with its abundance of enzymes).
The grain in the mash should be underlet or infused with hot water from the bottom up. This may be accomplished by simply adding a down tube to hot water inlet or by adding an inlet below a false bottom in a mash / lauter vessel. By infusing in this manner, stirring of the grains to insure uniform mixing of the grain and hot water is not necessary. By not stirring the water into the mash, hot oxygen reactions can be reduced.
At the end of the mash it is important to do a mash out, that is an upward (temperature) infusion step and rest. This mash out is a good time to add in the specialty grains. The mash should be infused with hot water sufficient to bring up the temperature to 77°C/170°F and hold it for 15-20 minutes.
I believe that a shortage of lipids may be a problem that homebrewers encounter because of their obsession with mash extraction yields. This need to eke out every trace of sugar from a mash, leads home brewers to practice wort recycling, vorlauf, and / or flaufing. These can be risky sparging techniques with regard to hot side aeration as well as stripping lipids from the wort.
. Some care should be taken in the transfer of hot wort from the mash / lauter vessel to the kettle. Splashing of the hot wort should be avoided.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:38 PM   #6
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I've heard of people trying to scoop of the hot break, I've tried it but didn't see much difference, although it did keep my beer from boiling over.

Never heard of adding sparge Easter from the bottom, I feel like you need to stir it up so you can get all the sugars off of the grains.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #7
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Nice article, thanks for digging that up.

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Old 07-24-2013, 11:30 PM   #8
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it wasnt the ful article of course...........

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Old 07-25-2013, 12:22 AM   #9
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what does being a UK brewer have to do with your fermentation time?
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:39 AM   #10
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In UK we tend to ferment down to close to end point then bottle condition. I don't know of anybody in UK who leaves say 2 weeks in primary and 2 weeks in secondary. Once beer is down to say .002 of FG we bottle. Amazed nobody has mentioned bottle bombs, smiles.....

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