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10-26-2009, 04:50 AM
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#21
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghpeel
I'm one of the guys on other threads that always chimes in on paint strainers, as they're f*cking awesome for folks looking to get into 5-gal batches of all grain. 1 paint strainer will fit perfectly into a 5 gal cooler. I add an upside-down saucer to the bottom of my cooler/mash tun that lifts the bag up just slightly because that little bit of slack helps the paint strainer stay secured around the rim of the cooler top.
I routinely do 1.050-1.070 beers with 1 paint strainer without any problems. But if you are paranoid about the bag ripping, then simply place a sturdier grain bag (which aren't fine enough, imho) in the cooler, then place the pain strainer in the cooler, inside the grain bag. When its time to lift out the grain, gran the sturdier grain bag and pull everything out in one shot. However, I wouldn't bother with this unless you're pushing 13+ lbs of grain. The paint strainers seem sturdy enough for anything lighter than that.
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Great tips!
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10-26-2009, 05:55 AM
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#22
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Portland
Posts: 216
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GilaMinumBeer
Yeah. I'd fear the paint strainers wouldn't hold up to the grain as the were being hoisted out.
As to cleaning the tun, have you got yourself a shop vac?
Ah-Haaaa
Works like a charm!
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Wow! eureka moment there! the one hassle of my clean in place single tier solved in a second...
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10-26-2009, 02:50 PM
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#23
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SJ
Posts: 759
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGnome6
I saw a bunch of threads about using a paint strainer bag in the boil to help filter out hop trub and thought that was a cool idea. I'm using a 10 Gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom for mashing and was wondering if it made sense to apply the same idea there.
The first benefit would be that it would help to filter out some of the gunk that comes through the false bottom. I have a HERMS rig and the more particles I keep away from the pumps, the better.
Second benefit would be cleanup. Rather than having to scoop all of the spent grains out, I could just lift out the bag.
I guess the only potential problem is an increased risk of a stuck sparge.
Has anyone tried this?
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I'm not positive but it sounds like your round cooler mash tun has distorted from the heat, and is now allowing particles to get around the perimeter of the false bottom.
A fix that has worked for many, is to take a piece of vinyl tubing and slit one wall of it length-wise. Then insert the tubing around the circumference of the false bottom. This gives a tight fit to the false bottom in the cooler, and stops grist from getting by the filter.
The grainbed should filter any of the fine particles once it is set using the herms. You do need to divert the water recirculating back over the top of the grainbed to keep from channeling.
After recirculating (vorlauf) with the pump for a minute or two, the liquor should run quite clear. After dough-in, you do need to allow the bed to set up for a few minutes before trying to run the pump.
Last edited by OLDBREW; 10-26-2009 at 03:01 PM.
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10-26-2009, 03:00 PM
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#24
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 679
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDBREW
I'm not positive but it sounds like your round cooler mash tun has distorted from the heat, and is now allowing particles to get around the perimeter of the false bottom.
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The particles that are coming through the false bottom is the stuff that's smaller than the holes. I don't think it's a matter of the cooler being distorted or the false bottom not sitting flush.
Quote:
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The grainbed should filter any or the fine particles once it is set using the herms. You do need to divert the water recirculating back over the top of the grainbed to keep from channeling.
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Once the grain bed is set, the wort runs crystal clear. It's just when starting the recirculation after doughing in or stirring for the sparge that I get the bigger particles coming through.
In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe. I've learned not to fear having the false bottom drop out when I dump the spent grains so cleanup isn't nearly as hard as I was making it out to be.
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10-26-2009, 03:41 PM
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#25
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes Given: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGnome6
In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe.
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I have been trying to think of a work around this issue myself. I like the idea of being able to use a dip tube to the bottom of my cooler. (I currently use a braid and batch sparge) My current thought is to use the bag as a liner/filter and cut a small hole for my temp probe. Put the strainer in feed the temp probe through. Use an elastic or something to hold/seal the bag on the probe. Mash, stir and sparge as usual. Then vacuum/scoop the grains out.
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10-26-2009, 03:48 PM
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#26
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Commerce, GA
Posts: 563
Liked 14 Times on 11 Posts
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I'm a huge believer in the bag. The bag fits perfectly in a 5 gallon round cooler and the 10lbs of grain inside sit nicely on a collander to drain. No false bottoms or special fittings required. It's perfect for a 5 gallon setup. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get it working for a 10 gallon system before I get around to making my keggle.
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10-26-2009, 04:28 PM
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#27
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: SJ
Posts: 759
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGnome6
The particles that are coming through the false bottom is the stuff that's smaller than the holes. I don't think it's a matter of the cooler being distorted or the false bottom not sitting flush.
Once the grain bed is set, the wort runs crystal clear. It's just when starting the recirculation after doughing in or stirring for the sparge that I get the bigger particles coming through.
In the end, I decided the grain bag idea for the mash tun wouldn't work for me since it would get stuck on my thermometer probe. I've learned not to fear having the false bottom drop out when I dump the spent grains so cleanup isn't nearly as hard as I was making it out to be.
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Some years ago brewers were using 13" 3M white buffer machine pads for mash filter pads. They seemed to work well. Then the SS mesh from the water supply hose lines started, and everyone went over to that as a filter.
Maybe that type of setup would help with your problem?
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10-28-2009, 12:57 PM
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#28
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Mad River Valley, VT
Posts: 355
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I tried using the large bag from AHS inside a 10gal round rubbermaid cooler w/false bottom. It fit like a glove - hooked the bag on both handles and around the top and screwed the cooler top on over it with no trouble. Also, cleanup was a snap. Easily pulled out 12.5lbs of wet grain which went to the compost and pretty much only had to rinse the cooler.
But, I have 2 questions.
First thing I noticed was that the wort ran clear from the get-go - for both the first runnings and sparge. I still did a Vorlauf, but it didn't seem necessary. Is there any possibility the bag is holding too much back? I assume not since all the sugars are dissolved/in suspension, but thought I'd ask anyway.
Second, is there a trick to cleaning them? I think I used more water trying to rinse the bits of grain stuck to the bag than I do while chilling. While rinsing it seemed I was getting some off, but just moving others around. And, when done, there are still some left on the bag. Is it easier to just do a "good" rinsing job and then when dry/before the next batch, shake off the remainders?
__________________
Atomic Dog Brewery
On Deck: Centennial IPA, Dry Irish Stout
P: Cascade Pale Ale
S: (nothing!)
K: (nothing!)
T: Carbed Crystal Light, Root Beer, Vanilla Cream Soda, Tripel IPA, Apfelwein
e^(pi*i) + 1 = 0
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10-28-2009, 01:07 PM
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#29
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 1,191
Liked 18 Times on 16 Posts Likes Given: 2
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I too noticed that there was no need to recirculate to clear the wort. If you think about it, the whole point of recirculating is to set up the grain bag as a filter, which is exactly what the bag does all the time anyway. So the recirculation isn't necessary.
Caveat: If your grain bag is not fine enough, or your crush is too fine, you might see some husk material in your wort and would therefor need to recirculate. Bag Mashing probably works best when your bag is fine enough to hold ALL the husk material in. Of course, some people don't worry if some husk gets into their kettle, but I'm not that laid back.....
I wouldn't worry about the bag holding too much back. What was your efficiency? Mine has been mid 70's % at the low end (with wheat), and 90% at the very high end (with all Pilsner). The sugars are all dissolved in the wort, so as long as the liquid can exit the bag, then the sugars will come with it.
I use Death Brewer's tips on cleaning my bags: turn them inside out and run water over/through them to wash off the grain materials. I let them dry, then I shake out any other loose stuff left. My paint strainers seem to be lasting a long time.
__________________
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Kegged: Mr. Hyde's Dark Hearted English Ale, Pumpkin Lager, Bro'Hemian Pilsner
Lagering:
Primary:
Resting: Stinky Pete's Midnight Wheat
No-Chill: Graham's Cracker Brown Ale
Bottled: Lowland Oatmeal Porter, Adieu Travail Belgian Sour, Golden Blossom Braggot
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10-28-2009, 04:24 PM
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#30
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 35
Likes Given: 1
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If I get my order in time for this weekend I will be doing a 10 gallon batch of Ed's Haus pale ale. Mashing in a 10g cooler. Brewmasters warehouse has a large grain bag 2ft x 3ft, so I threw that in with my order. Should be plenty big. I do not for see any issues but I'll post my results when I get this brewed.
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