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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > OG on IIPA was a little high...1.115

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Old 02-01-2013, 02:59 PM   #21
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The line between an IIPA and a Barleywine is somewhat gray. The main difference is as you said the maltiness. IIPAs tend to be drier with less maltiness and residual sweetness than barleywines. People often add sugar to IIPAs to make sure they are dry enough. Barleywines tend to have slightly higher ABV as well. When you are brewing either one though, you usually want to mash pretty low to make the wort as fermentable as possible so it doesn't end up too sweet. I mashed my 1.095 barleywine at 148F and so far it has gotten down to 1.018. If you brew this again I wouldn't go above 150F.

I would never use a wine yeast to ferment barley. Beer yeast is a lot more hearty than you think. 10 and 12% ABV is definitely more stressful for the yeast than a regular 5% beer, but it's nothing that the yeast can't handle. I believe Sam Adams brews a beer that is around 20% ABV. Not sure what yeast they use but I know it's a beer yeast.

Also, wort reaches a saturation point around 100 IBU where no more iso-alpha acids can be dissolved in solution. So even though you may calculate 200 IBU the actual IBU in the beer will likely not be more than 90 or 100. You can of course always add more flavor and aroma which can be perceived as bitterness or just plain hoppy goodness!

Hopefully your beer will reach a FG lower than 1.045. That would be one thick and sweet beer. Just let us know how it goes!

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Old 02-01-2013, 03:59 PM   #22
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As far as the Barleywine VS. IIPA/DIPA...what exactly is the difference?
Barleywines tend to be maltier, and typically do not have as much hop aroma. They definitely have a lot of crossover though.

Your beer should be pretty malty with a 158 mash temp. That's the main reason I think it will be more appropriately called a Barleywine. If you tell me I'm getting a IIPA I would expect something like Stone Ruination dry with hops overshadowing the malt.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:09 PM   #23
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Barleywines tend to be maltier, and typically do not have as much hop aroma. They definitely have a lot of crossover though.

Your beer should be pretty malty with a 158 mash temp. That's the main reason I think it will be more appropriately called a Barleywine. If you tell me I'm getting a IIPA I would expect something like Stone Ruination dry with hops overshadowing the malt.
Yeah, like I said I was definitely aiming for a lower mash temp...but goofed when heating my strike water since this was the first batch I was doing that was less than 5g. I looked up a couple threads on brew day to give me some piece of mind, and this one says that Lagunitas mashes their IPA at 160*, so I felt a little better afterwards.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/effe...rature-139318/

Of course and IPA and a IIPA won't be the same thing in the end...but I was hoping it might be close enough.
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:13 PM   #24
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Most likely nobody will even know it wasn't supposed to turn out like it does unless you tell them.

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Old 02-01-2013, 08:31 PM   #25
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Most likely nobody will even know it wasn't supposed to turn out like it does unless you tell them.
Hehe, yep I will definitely be counting on that

And who knows, if it ends up tasty maybe I'll have found my secret recipe.
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #26
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LOL @ a "little" high! How high were you aiming for? That's 10 points higher then the biggest beer I've brewed, a Belgian Dark Strong 1.105 OG and it finished at 1.022 after a LOT of coaxing. It could take you a while to get the FG down...but try gently rousting the yeast and upping the temps if you take a measurement and find you have a ways to go. One good thing about ale yeasts is that after the first 4 days or so (maybe a week with a beer like this) temps a bit higher then the uppper end of the range won't impart off-flavors, but it will help get you a few more points of attenuation. GL. I love big beers like that..hope it works out great for ya..but getting to FG on beers that big is normally a challenge, so don't be surprised if it is for you considering the mash temps as well...

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Old 02-03-2013, 01:56 AM   #27
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Check the 120 minute clone threads. You could could consider doing something like that if it finishes with a really high og. Adding additional sugar in increments to the secondary should lower the gravity and boost the alcohol if it finishes too sweet for your liking.

I like the hop choices you went with. I just brewed a 5 gallon batch of 1.088 wort that fermented down to 1.011 and used the same hops as your brew. It needs to clear in the keg some more, but it's pretty amazing right now. That used a full ounce of simcoe, columbus, and nugget FWH and boiled for 90. It got another dose of columbus for more bittering and used varying amounts of simcoe, nugget, cascade and centennial in the later additions and dry hop.

I helped that finish low by mashing at 150, adding a pound of sugar and the only specialty malt was a half lb of c20. I brought out the malt in this one by using a bunch of munich as part of the base malt.

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Old 02-03-2013, 06:01 AM   #28
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I attempted to brew a 5 gallon batch of DBIPA (Double Black IPA), ended up with a OG of 1.110 and a FG of 1.020 using just a double vial pitch of WL001. I didn't want to use the WL099 because I wanted to reduce the vinious alcohol flavors that are associated with that particular yeast.

That being said, I fermented in primary for 4 weeks, secondary for 4 more, and a portion of this beer went into an oak cask for additional aging of 8 weeks. This beer took quite a long time to bottle condition, it took 12 weeks. I kept checking bottles after the first four weeks, only to be disappointed by flat beer.

But once it finally carbed-up, I didn't taste the familiar flavor of a black IPA. I took a bottle to one of my favorite breweries where the owner and the brew master both told me I made a Russian Imperial Stout! (I made some errors in scaling up the hop ratio from my standard black IPA).

So I changed the name, and just tell people what it ended up being.

Point being, if it tastes good then it's good. Who cares what "category" it falls into unless you are brewing to style for competition. And with high ABV beers, just be patient. They will last a very long time, and will be well worth the wait.

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Old 02-03-2013, 06:44 AM   #29
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I'm not sure if this was mentioned, as I'm too lazy to read the whole thread atm, but next time this happens, do a simple c1v1=c2v2 calculation. You will know how much water to add so that your OG won't be too high. Good luck though, and happy aging!

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbaysurfer View Post
LOL @ a "little" high! How high were you aiming for? That's 10 points higher then the biggest beer I've brewed, a Belgian Dark Strong 1.105 OG and it finished at 1.022 after a LOT of coaxing. It could take you a while to get the FG down...but try gently rousting the yeast and upping the temps if you take a measurement and find you have a ways to go. One good thing about ale yeasts is that after the first 4 days or so (maybe a week with a beer like this) temps a bit higher then the uppper end of the range won't impart off-flavors, but it will help get you a few more points of attenuation. GL. I love big beers like that..hope it works out great for ya..but getting to FG on beers that big is normally a challenge, so don't be surprised if it is for you considering the mash temps as well...
Hehe, well I was sort of aiming for OG around 1.090-1.100, as I based my recipe's matls off of Biermunchers "Tits Up" IIPA. I do BIAB though, in a 10g pot, and typically start with 7.5g strike water for 5g in teh fermenter. With 7.5g of water, I can only get up to about 17lbs of grain before I start getting *really* close to the lip of the pot duing the mash. Since this recipe called for more than that, I aimed for a 4g batch, starting with 6.5g of strike water.

I used 2 paint-straining bags and split the 19+ lbs of grain between them, and after a 60 minute mash and 90 minute boil...only had 3-3.5g for the fermenter. And as noted, I also missed my mash temps, which will raise my FG too...resulting in some sort of weird Imperial Franken-barley Ale-wine.

I have been saving flip-top bottles for months. I have 13 of them, and each holds just over a pint, so I should get about half the batch in them. I'm hoping they will be at peak flavor around July when I have a big annual family gathering in the Outer Banks, NC which includes a number of people that enjoy good beer.

If it turns out to be crap...well I'll just drink it myself and bring some porters and IPA's that I know how to brew
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