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01-09-2013, 02:51 AM
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#1
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana
Posts: 224
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New to batch sparge and stainless braid, need help!
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HI
Recent convert from Brew In A Bag to a 70qt Coleman Xtreme with a stainless braid cooler. On my 3rd batch and have had trouble with my draining of mash.
I seem to get a gallon or so and then the runnings basically stop. I have to jack with the braid with my paddle to get things going again.
Last minute I realized that if I start the runnings very slowly during vourlof and then go full drain that might be the way to go, is that correct????
Any input is appreciated
Lakedawgs
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01-09-2013, 02:55 AM
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#2
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Beer:30.............
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 3,209
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If you drain too fast you could get a stuck sparge. I have before. Just do whatever works for your system. If that means draining a little slower then so be it.
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01-09-2013, 01:34 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 112
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I get no resistance from my bazooka screen. The key imo is getting a good grain filter going not a metal filter. Let the grains do the work.
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01-09-2013, 01:46 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: bozeman, montana
Posts: 70
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lakedawgs...i had used one of those stainless steel braids for probably a dozen or so batches. was working fine, but towards the end of it's life it seemed to stretch out and finally got plugged up like yours did (and i couldn't keep it on the bottom either, even with a brass plug in the end). i've since switched over to a bazooka screen and have NEVER had a problem...even with a crush size of 0.39...that thing is awesome and i'd never go back. you just have to make sure and vorlauf like crazy...i usually recirculate the first gallon of wort to clear it up and help set up the grain bed.
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01-09-2013, 02:17 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana
Posts: 224
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I agree with creating a good grain filter. I am going to try the 'slowly draining the vourlof' think and then fully open the valve and see how that works.
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01-09-2013, 02:25 PM
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#6
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Member
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Location: Seattle, Washington
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You can add rice hulls around the braid to help with drainage. I use a braid with rice hulls, vourlof about a gallon and it drains just fine with my valve at about half way.
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01-09-2013, 02:39 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana
Posts: 224
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What do you mean by 'add rice hulls around the braid'? I plan to add them to a my grain bill but how do yours stay around the braid with stirring and such?
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01-09-2013, 03:09 PM
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#8
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Member
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Location: Seattle, Washington
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I cover the braid with them so I have about 1" at the bottom of my MLT, pour about 6"-8" of grain in, add strike water and stir being careful not to stir too deep. Even if I do the braid will still have hullabaloo around it. Pour the rest of my grain and water in, stir and let rest. Works for me every time. Granted I've only done 4 AG's to date but none the less. Hope that helps!
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01-09-2013, 03:10 PM
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#9
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Member
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Location: Seattle, Washington
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Hullabaloo? Hahaha! Got to love autocorrect! Hulls, I meant hulls!
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01-09-2013, 03:18 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tiverton, Rhode Island
Posts: 3,764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzno
I cover the braid with them so I have about 1" at the bottom of my MLT, pour about 6"-8" of grain in, add strike water and stir being careful not to stir too deep. Even if I do the braid will still have hullabaloo around it. Pour the rest of my grain and water in, stir and let rest. Works for me every time. Granted I've only done 4 AG's to date but none the less. Hope that helps!
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I would be a little leery about this method. I stir the heck out of my grains when adding to the tun, Stir again before vorlaufing and draining. Add the sparge and stir like crazy again then drain. I am still not getting as good efficiency as I would like. I would hate to see what I would get not stirring.
The rice hulls should work by stirring and starting your drain very slowly to let the grain bed settle.
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