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Old 04-23-2014, 11:42 AM   #11
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Just stating what the book says, and what I do. Good enough?
Yes, good enough. Palmer's book has some thing in it that aren't true or are just partially true. One of them is that temperatures over 170 will extract tannins. It's been found that the pH makes the difference and if your pH is correct you can sparge at boiling temps. Letting the sparge set for 10 minutes is what I would consider a partial truth. It will let the grain bed settle and that might get you clearer wort but the real goal is clear beer and it doesn't seem to matter if the wort is completely clear or so cloudy you can't see through it. You can get clear beer either way.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:58 PM   #12
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Just stating what the book says, and what I do. Good enough?

Read this...www.dennybrew.com

I have batch sparged 455 batches and I've tried about everything that can be tried. I have found that the simplest technique is the best technique.
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Old 04-24-2014, 04:59 PM   #13
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Yes, good enough. Palmer's book has some thing in it that aren't true or are just partially true. One of them is that temperatures over 170 will extract tannins. It's been found that the pH makes the difference and if your pH is correct you can sparge at boiling temps. Letting the sparge set for 10 minutes is what I would consider a partial truth. It will let the grain bed settle and that might get you clearer wort but the real goal is clear beer and it doesn't seem to matter if the wort is completely clear or so cloudy you can't see through it. You can get clear beer either way.
John is a dear friend, but the problem is that he doesn't batch sparge.
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Old 04-24-2014, 05:38 PM   #14
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I like to think that I've refined my process to be pretty efficient. 45 minutes into the mash, I begin heating my sparge water, and simultaneously begin recirculating wort in the mash through a grant in order to clarify the wort. At the 60 minute mark, I turn off the pump and rearrange my hoses to drain from my grant into my kettle, and collect my first runnings. Once my mash tun starts gurgling, I close the valve, dump in the sparge water (around 175° F), give it a vigorous stir, then prop up the end of my mash tun opposite the valve (helps collect more runnings) and close it up. I then begin heating my first runnings, then come back and start recirculating again with my grant and my pump, until the wort is clear again. I then collect second runnings and add it to the (already heating) boil kettle. I then continue collecting runnings from my mash tun (now flowing at a mere trickle) until I hit my required pre-boil volume (6.5 gallons for a 60 minute boil, 7.25 gallons for a 90 minute boil).

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Old 04-24-2014, 09:45 PM   #15
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Read this...www.dennybrew.com

I have batch sparged 455 batches and I've tried about everything that can be tried. I have found that the simplest technique is the best technique.
Hey...thanks for the post! You pointed out something in your linked page that DID NOT occur to me. When I pour the sweat wort back into my tun, I pour it along the sides to try to eliminate slashing. When the tun is fully drained, I have noticed the grain bed around the sides of the cooler/tun being only half as thick as in the center.
While I have noticed it, it never even crossed my mind to think of the sugar infused fluid taking the route of least resistance, and not rinsing the grain bed as well as it could.
I am brewing again in a week an a half. I will try to "ladle" the sweet wort back into the tun...see if it improves my numbers just a wee bit more.

Thanks Denny!!
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:17 AM   #16
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Read this...www.dennybrew.com
I have found that the simplest technique is the best technique.
Excellent link and some very interesting ideas about technique. I learned to simply measure the amount of sweet wort after first-runnings and then subtract that from the desired volume to determine the sparge water volume. My efficiency has been good and usually hit within a point or two of projected OG.

I have no problem with changing that technique if there is a good reason. So what can I expect to gain by making the sparge volume equal to the first runnings volume?
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwapogorilla View Post
Hey...thanks for the post! You pointed out something in your linked page that DID NOT occur to me. When I pour the sweat wort back into my tun, I pour it along the sides to try to eliminate slashing. When the tun is fully drained, I have noticed the grain bed around the sides of the cooler/tun being only half as thick as in the center.
While I have noticed it, it never even crossed my mind to think of the sugar infused fluid taking the route of least resistance, and not rinsing the grain bed as well as it could.
I am brewing again in a week an a half. I will try to "ladle" the sweet wort back into the tun...see if it improves my numbers just a wee bit more.

Thanks Denny!!
These videos may be useful for you...

http://s794.photobucket.com/user/den...unoff.mp4.html

http://s794.photobucket.com/user/den...parge.mp4.html
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:11 PM   #18
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Excellent link and some very interesting ideas about technique. I learned to simply measure the amount of sweet wort after first-runnings and then subtract that from the desired volume to determine the sparge water volume. My efficiency has been good and usually hit within a point or two of projected OG.

I have no problem with changing that technique if there is a good reason. So what can I expect to gain by making the sparge volume equal to the first runnings volume?
What you;re doing is the way I usually do it and the way I advise new brewers to do it. If you get equal runnings you may get a very slight increase in effieincy. But my experience is that of the runnings are within a gal. or so of each other, it's close enough.
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