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01-16-2013, 04:45 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
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Need some help on first all grain brew
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I have just brewed my first all grain brew. I used two kettles and used a batch sparge method. Everything went pretty well and I was happy with the all grain experience. My problem is now the beer is fermenting in a glass carboy with a air trap, and i see little to no yeast activity. It sits flat and rarely do i see bubbles come through the air trap. It has been fermenting for only a day. The beer is a pale ale and is fermenting at around 68 deg.
I kind of freaking out and want to add more yeast but I'm thinking it might be contaminated. I did use sanitizer on everything.
I need advise and would appreciate any tips on what I should do
Thank you
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01-16-2013, 04:54 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Hell.. er.. Phoenix, AZ
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01-16-2013, 04:55 PM
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#3
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Trophy Husband
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You should do nothing but wait for another day or so. Just relax.
What temp did you pitch the yeast at?
__________________
Kegs:Conan IPA, Pilsner
Glass:Rochefort 8.1, IIPA, Snowball Pale Ale, House PA, Oak Porter, HOZER Saison
Buckets:Light ale, Show Mead, Disco Lem-o-nade
Next Brew:Columbus IPA
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01-16-2013, 05:12 PM
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#4
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I used a white labs California ale yeast WLP001 starter. I added it to the beer after siphoning it in to the carboy at a temp of 72 deg. I took the starter out five hours before use, it was at around 74 deg.
I read that sometimes left over sanitizer can kill yeast in the carboy. I had spryer the car boy down before putting the yeast in.
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01-16-2013, 05:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Location: Fayetteville, GA
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Probably should pitch around 68 but give it time. It'll be fine. Patience will do you well
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01-16-2013, 05:31 PM
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#6
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Location: Kirkland, WA
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I've never had a problem pitching into a recently sanitized carboy. My carboys usually have a bunch of sanitizer bubbles left in them before I add the wort. Did you aerate the wort before pitching? Usually shaking your carboy vigorously for 5 mins will do the trick. What was the "use by" date on the yeast? Lastly, WLP001 ferments best at 68 - 73 degrees, so try to keep it in that range during fermentation.
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01-16-2013, 05:36 PM
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#7
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Trophy Husband
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Nah don't worry. It'll be fine. Sanitizer won't kill the yeast.
Go out and have a beer. WHen you wake up tomorrow eveyrhting will be humming along nicely.
__________________
Kegs:Conan IPA, Pilsner
Glass:Rochefort 8.1, IIPA, Snowball Pale Ale, House PA, Oak Porter, HOZER Saison
Buckets:Light ale, Show Mead, Disco Lem-o-nade
Next Brew:Columbus IPA
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01-16-2013, 05:43 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
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Thanks for all the good feed back.
I didn't aerate as much as I should have. I'm going to purchase a long ass spoon to aerate the next batch better.
I own a craft beer bar for a number of years and am just now getting into home brewing. I'm thinking about getting a brew pub license and start serving some house brew. I have 16 taps and a cask line. I was originally gonna force carbonate the kegs, but now I'm thinking about just doing cask instead. It would be less equipment and with a small kitchen that's important. I have one pin cask keg that hold about 3.5 gal. Do I just prime it with sugar and wait to pop it. Or is there more to kegging cask ales?
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01-16-2013, 08:26 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Kirkland, WA
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I was under the impression that cask beers were not carbonated. If you want to carbonate in a keg the easiest and fastest way is to force carb. You can use priming sugar though.
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01-17-2013, 02:41 AM
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#10
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Location: Seattle, WA
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I thought this was going to be a thread about all grain problems. 
__________________
Keg #1: Monster Mash Pumpkin Ale
Keg #2: Cascadian Stout
Keg #3: Brandon O Graff
Fermenter #1 RHESB 6.1
Fermenter #2 Citra Pale Ale
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