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Old 01-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #21
wickman6
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I'm sure I'm not the first to do this, but I found a workaround for the biab lifting/holding/squeezing dilemma. I use my fry basket that came with my kettle. It goes in first, then the bag and finally the grain. When its time to lift, I raise the basket and wedge it over the kettle kinda sideways and press the top of the grain with a lid from another pot. I'd post a pic, but phone won't cooperate. Maybe I can upload one when I get home.

Anyway, there's no sore shoulders involved.

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Old 01-16-2013, 02:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpertskir View Post
Lots of threads on this and many more answers than this but....

BIAB

pros
less equipment to move around on brew day and store after brew day
less equipment to buy

Cons
Lifting 20 plus lbs of 170 Dg grain dripping with sticky wort
harder to maintain mash temps
~lower efficiency
compelled to make annoying posts in ANY AG thread about how great BIAB is despite what the OP is asking




2 or 3 Vessel

Pros
more flexibility
~better efficiency
partygyle possibility
stacking batches for multi batch days
you get to buy more stuff

Cons
you have to buy more stuff
more equipment to move around/store
stuck sparges
LOL...is there anything funnier (or sadder?) than defensiveness cloaked in condescension?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:01 PM   #23
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Xpertskir,

BIAB is something the OP asked about. Reread his message. I don't believe changing methods will solve his issues, but I don't see the discussion as a side topic either.

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Old 01-16-2013, 03:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milan37 View Post

LOL...is there anything funnier (or sadder?) than defensiveness cloaked in condescension?
LOL... Only trolls who manage to be defensive and condescending, while at the same time, not contributing.

As for the OP, since you already have the gear, and your main concern was hitting your mash temps correctly. I would recommend sticking with your current set up, but making a few adjustments like pre heating your cooler (I just fill mine with hot water right from a utility sink, it comes out at 140, put in a few gallons and let it sit while I heat my strike water). Heating the cooler with the strike water is really the part that varies the most, grain is more predictable. So a smaller temperature gap to overcome is really helpful.

Then using a calc from online, and taking good notes each brew session, I hit them temps I want without a problem everytime. I brewed on Sunday, outside at about 45° and after an hour mash with 13lbs of grain in a 10 gallon cooler I only lost 1° F.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:56 PM   #25
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Yeah defintely pre-heat the mash tun and keep track of ambient temp, and grain temp.

As far as efficiency goes, I doubt a 6 degrees off is gonna effect anything. You should know the ph of your mash if your gonna do all-grain.

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:02 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solbes View Post
Xpertskir,

BIAB is something the OP asked about. Reread his message. I don't believe changing methods will solve his issues, but I don't see the discussion as a side topic either.
You are right, he did ask about it.

That comment about BIABers making out of place replies was more about other threads, and if you look around it is quite pervasive.

Good luck OP with whatever you decide. It will take a few brew days to figure out your system but once you do repeatability is pretty easy.

Biggest piece of advice is to build in ways to correct your temperature(ie boiling water or ice on stand by) because no one is going to perfectly hit their mash temp right of the bat every time.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:40 PM   #27
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jeesh...the OP asked about a better way to do all grain.

Just my opinion, but for lower gravity beers...certainly any grain bill under 10lbs...there is no better way than the deathbrewer method...which is essentially Stove Top...Mash in a Bag! The only extra equipment is a large nylon bag for $5 or less. I hit and control my mash temps exactly....and hold them by placing my mash pot in the oven. As an example...I brewed last night: 12 lbs at mash temp of 151....put in oven, and went to the gym....came back 80 minutes later...mash temp 151! I calculated at 82% but the extra mash time bumped my to 86%

to me that is a "better way" and fully related to the OP

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Old 01-16-2013, 11:29 PM   #28
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I use a cooler with a stainless stell mesh from a water line and an on-line calculator for temps. Always within 2 degrees of what is calculated. Here is the calculator I use. Love this thing.

http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

I usually up my mash thickness to half the total volume and sparge with the other half. 80% plus effeciency. Since you have the equipment already I see no need to get anything else.

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Old 01-19-2013, 09:32 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpertskir View Post

I do a 3 vessel day in that time, BTW
You may be as quick but not cheap nor easier. Regardless, just trying to offer OP alternative to all grain.
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:21 AM   #30
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I had not considered BIAB much until reading some of the replies here. My next USAF job will limit my free time quite a bit, but I would still like to all-grain brew. It seems to me BIAB might be a time saver as compared to the three tier system I was doing before with Gott coolers. While it would be nice to reutilize those coolers, BIAB does look a lot simpler at the cost of mash efficiency.

If the cost was not considered, and 220V/30A service not a problem (and unfortunately it is), what do you think about the new High Gravity eBIAB system? Anyone used it?

How easy/hard is it to step mash using direct fire and a clad bottom like a 10gal Megapot? Any experience there?

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