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Old 05-13-2009, 06:27 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Okay, he is low...

ProMash is giving me about 167F for strike, assuming a preheated MLT.

How bout the rest of yall?
Any recommendation on specifically how to preheat my MLT? It is a 5 gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom.

Also...I've seen a few references to ProMash in this thread. That's the software of choice for homebrewing, huh? Eventually, I'd like to get a copy but I'm wondering if I could justify it at this point...being that this is my first AG batch. I guess I told myself that I'd look into it once I've successfully brewed this first batch.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:31 AM   #12
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I may be wrong, but it looks as though your strike temperature is low by about 8 degrees. That is even if you pre-heat the MLT.

I usually recirculate about 2 quarts, which takes much less than 20 minutes. You just need to get the wort free of grain particles.

For your questions, I agree with The Pol on 1 and 3. For number 2, I would sparge for ~ 40 minutes using my large MLT, but ~60 minutes with the small MLT. It all depends on the equipment you are using.

-a.
You recommend a 60 minute sparge for a small MLT? My MLT is a 5-gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom. Can I assume large and small refers to 10- and 5-gallon, respectively?
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:12 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
Okay, he is low...

ProMash is giving me about 167F for strike, assuming a preheated MLT.

How bout the rest of yall?
On my system it is probably closer to 170.

You can preheat the cooler with a gallon or so of 160 water added a few minutes before mashing. Then dump the water and proceed.
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Old 05-13-2009, 04:50 PM   #14
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You recommend a 60 minute sparge for a small MLT? My MLT is a 5-gallon Rubbermaid cooler with a false bottom. Can I assume large and small refers to 10- and 5-gallon, respectively?
Yes, The large is a 10g Rubbermaid and the small 5g.
I have a SS false bottom in the 10g, and a Phils (plastic) phalse bottom in the 5g.
I don't know if the difference is caused by the different dimensions of the MLT's or the design of the false bottom. I do know that the holes in the plastic false bottom are smaller than those in the SS one.
I'm not recommending a 60 minute sparge, just saying that that is what it takes in my case. YMMV.

Hope this helps,

-a.
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Old 05-13-2009, 06:36 PM   #15
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On my system it is probably closer to 170.

You can preheat the cooler with a gallon or so of 160 water added a few minutes before mashing. Then dump the water and proceed.
Thanks for the heads up, everyone (re: strike water temp). I downloaded a copy of Brewsmith and the temperature that it has calculated for me is in the range that you all have stated. It is saying 169.3 degrees F to be exact

Thanks again.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:11 PM   #16
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Thanks for the heads up, everyone (re: strike water temp). I downloaded a copy of Brewsmith and the temperature that it has calculated for me is in the range that you all have stated. It is saying 169.3 degrees F to be exact

Thanks again.
Actually I meant 169.8 but I rounded it off for simplicity.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:21 PM   #17
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When you set up your equipment in Beer Smith it calculates a thermal mass for the MLT based on what type you chose. ProMash does the same. BUT, since I do not like unknown variables much, this is what I did.

THERMAL MASS OF TUN set to "0"

This will give you a LOWER strike temp.

I heat my STRIKE water to STRIKE temp PLUS 10-15F.

I put the strike water in the MLT, and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to preheat the MLT.

When the strike water cools to STRIKE temp, I mash in.

The MAIN reason I do this as opposed to using the THERMAL MASS calculation in the software... it doesnt account for the temp of the MLT.

If I set my THERMAL MASS to that of an insualted cooler, it will jack up my STRIKE TEMP about 3F or so. BUT this does not account for my MLT being 45F in the winter and 85F in the summer. See... this is why I DO NOT use the THERMAL MASS numbers in BS or PM software, it leaves out that variable.

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Old 05-13-2009, 08:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Pol View Post
When you set up your equipment in Beer Smith it calculates a thermal mass for the MLT based on what type you chose. ProMash does the same. BUT, since I do not like unknown variables much, this is what I did.

THERMAL MASS OF TUN set to "0"

This will give you a LOWER strike temp.

I heat my STRIKE water to STRIKE temp PLUS 10-15F.

I put the strike water in the MLT, and let it sit for 5-10 minutes to preheat the MLT.

When the strike water cools to STRIKE temp, I mash in.

The MAIN reason I do this as opposed to using the THERMAL MASS calculation in the software... it doesnt account for the temp of the MLT.

If I set my THERMAL MASS to that of an insualted cooler, it will jack up my STRIKE TEMP about 3F or so. BUT this does not account for my MLT being 45F in the winter and 85F in the summer. See... this is why I DO NOT use the THERMAL MASS numbers in BS or PM software, it leaves out that variable.

What you're saying makes sense...better to overshoot the strike temp but stay with the correct volume of water becuase you can always wait for it to cool (instead of having to add more volume of hot water to bring temp up).

The version of Beersmith that I downloaded today (5/13/2009) lets you input the temperature of the MLT. So, I might try to play around with that...I have an infrared thermometer (laser thingy) that I can use to measure the temp of the inside wall of the MLT. It also lets me specify what equipment I'm using (literally, mine is the option in BeerSmith called "Brew Pot (6+gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (5 Gal)")...so hopefully, it will calculate things accurately.

But I'm with you as far as not being fond of unknown variables...so I might just try your method. Thanks again.
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