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Old 05-12-2009, 10:52 PM   #1
EvilBrewer
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Default My first all-grain batch!

Hello everyone...

Quick questions about an all-grain recipe for a Sierra Nevada Clone.

A little about me...I'm currently an extract brewer standing on the verge of doing my first all grain batch! Been extract brewing for about 1.5 years and I've got a good handle on it. I've done a good deal of research on all-grain brewing but since I've never actually DONE it, I'm unclear about a couple of details.

I have posted the recipe below; and my questions are typed below that. Any and all feedback is appreciated!


****
Sierra Nevada Clone (all grain)

Ingredients:
• 10.25 lbs 2-row pale malt
• 10 oz. crystal 60L
• 2.5 AAU Magnum (60 min)
• 4.8 AAU Perle (60 min)
• 5 AAU Cascade (15 min)
• 3.75 AAU Cascade (0 min)
• 0.75 oz whole Cascade (dry hop)
• 1 tsp Irish Moss
• White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) w/ 1.5 qt. yeast starter
• 7/8 cups priming sugar

Step by Step:

Heat 3.42 gallons of water to 161 degrees F, stir in crushed grain and mash at 154 degrees F. Mash for 60 minutes and then stir in boiled water to raise the grain bed temperature to 168 degrees F. Hold for 5 minutes. Recirculate until wort is clear (about 20 minutes), then begin running wort off to kettle. Sparge with water hot enough to maintain grain bed temperature at 170 degrees F. Collect 6.5 gallons of wort and boil for 90 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Add Irish Moss with 15 minutes left in the boil. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Aerate wort and pitch sediment from yeast starter. Ferment at 68 degrees F. Rack to secondary when fermentation is complete and add dry hops. Bottle when beer falls clear.
****


My questions:

1. I'm going to use fly sparging for this batch. My question is...after I recirculate, and wort is running clear, should I completely empty the lauter tun before I start sparging? Or should I start the fly sparge as soon as I begin the transfer to the kettle? I suspect it is the latter, but the difference in temperatures specified for mash out and sparge confused me.

2. Is there any general rule of thumb for how long I should fly sparge? I'm trying to figure out what kind of flow rate I should have going in/out of the lauter tun.

3. How do I know what temperature to use for my sparge water in order to maintain 170 degrees in the grain bed? Would I just use 170 degree water and let it reach an equilibrium with the temp of the grain bed (which would be around 168 degrees when sparging begins)?

Thanks again!!



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Old 05-12-2009, 11:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilBrewer View Post
Hello everyone...

Quick questions about an all-grain recipe for a Sierra Nevada Clone.

A little about me...I'm currently an extract brewer standing on the verge of doing my first all grain batch! Been extract brewing for about 1.5 years and I've got a good handle on it. I've done a good deal of research on all-grain brewing but since I've never actually DONE it, I'm unclear about a couple of details.

I have posted the recipe below; and my questions are typed below that. Any and all feedback is appreciated!


****
Sierra Nevada Clone (all grain)

Ingredients:
• 10.25 lbs 2-row pale malt
• 10 oz. crystal 60L
• 2.5 AAU Magnum (60 min)
• 4.8 AAU Perle (60 min)
• 5 AAU Cascade (15 min)
• 3.75 AAU Cascade (0 min)
• 0.75 oz whole Cascade (dry hop)
• 1 tsp Irish Moss
• White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) w/ 1.5 qt. yeast starter
• 7/8 cups priming sugar

Step by Step:

Heat 3.42 gallons of water to 161 degrees F, stir in crushed grain and mash at 154 degrees F. Mash for 60 minutes and then stir in boiled water to raise the grain bed temperature to 168 degrees F. Hold for 5 minutes. Recirculate until wort is clear (about 20 minutes), then begin running wort off to kettle. Sparge with water hot enough to maintain grain bed temperature at 170 degrees F. Collect 6.5 gallons of wort and boil for 90 minutes, adding hops at times indicated in the ingredient list. Add Irish Moss with 15 minutes left in the boil. Cool wort and transfer to fermenter. Aerate wort and pitch sediment from yeast starter. Ferment at 68 degrees F. Rack to secondary when fermentation is complete and add dry hops. Bottle when beer falls clear.
****


My questions:

1. I'm going to use fly sparging for this batch. My question is...after I recirculate, and wort is running clear, should I completely empty the lauter tun before I start sparging? Or should I start the fly sparge as soon as I begin the transfer to the kettle? I suspect it is the latter, but the difference in temperatures specified for mash out and sparge confused me.

NO, keep about 1-2" of water on top of the grain bed. Mashout at 168F or so and sparge with 170ish degree water. This is just to keep the grain bed hot during the lauter.

2. Is there any general rule of thumb for how long I should fly sparge? I'm trying to figure out what kind of flow rate I should have going in/out of the lauter tun.

I spend about 30 minutes... maybe 40. I get 82% eff. so I dont think it has to be much longer.

3. How do I know what temperature to use for my sparge water in order to maintain 170 degrees in the grain bed? Would I just use 170 degree water and let it reach an equilibrium with the temp of the grain bed (which would be around 168 degrees when sparging begins)?

You are overthinking this all grain thing. 170F is a target.... shhh, I used to NEVER mash out and STILL got 78% eff! Mashout to about 168F and sparge with 168-173F water to keep the grain bed hot. Dont split hairs, it isnt rocket science. If you are between 160-173F on the sparge temp, it wont change anything.

Thanks again!!
I am brewing this on my E-HERMS on Saturday on a webcast! Good luck to ya!

Here is my link and recipe!
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/snpa-clone-brew-day-coming-up-118209/


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Old 05-13-2009, 12:57 AM   #3
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Thanks for the information...that definitely helps. Yeah, I'm doing my best not to split too many hairs before I actually brew, haha.

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Old 05-13-2009, 01:00 AM   #4
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The first AG is intimidating, but once you get through it, you'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

Good Luck.

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Old 05-13-2009, 01:44 AM   #5
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Just want to add to always have more hot water on hand than is needed, Be it for mash in or sparging. All systems are not created equal and different varieties of grains absorb differently. Nothing like doing your first all grain and having to be scrambling for some hot water. Learning all grain is easy, learning how to work whatever system you are using to your advantage to hit your numbers time and time again for whatever beer your making is the real art.

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Old 05-13-2009, 01:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymoat View Post
Just want to add to always have more hot water on hand than is needed, Be it for mash in or sparging. All systems are not created equal and different varieties of grains absorb differently. Nothing like doing your first all grain and having to be scrambling for some hot water. Learning all grain is easy, learning how to work whatever system you are using to your advantage to hit your numbers time and time again for whatever beer your making is the real art.
+1 to this...

It took time, but I have my fluid losses and boil off down to .5 quarts. I get exactly what I need in the HLT, so when I start to fly sparge, I simply start the pump and walk away. The HLT runs dry and the MLT runs dry and the kettle has exactly what I need pre-boil. It is crazy, but that is how precise you can get.
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:57 AM   #7
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I may be wrong, but it looks as though your strike temperature is low by about 8 degrees. That is even if you pre-heat the MLT.

I usually recirculate about 2 quarts, which takes much less than 20 minutes. You just need to get the wort free of grain particles.

For your questions, I agree with The Pol on 1 and 3. For number 2, I would sparge for ~ 40 minutes using my large MLT, but ~60 minutes with the small MLT. It all depends on the equipment you are using.

-a.

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Old 05-13-2009, 02:03 AM   #8
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I use a 10 gallon cooler, 40 minute sparge

I agree, per ProMash your strike temp should be 167F for that volume of water, that ammount of grain, and that target mash temp. THIS IS ASSUMING YOUR MLT IS ALREADY PRE HEATED

If you strike with 161F water, you will rest at 149F in the MLT, VERY LOW

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Old 05-13-2009, 02:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajf View Post
I may be wrong, but it looks as though your strike temperature is low by about 8 degrees. That is even if you pre-heat the MLT.

I usually recirculate about 2 quarts, which takes much less than 20 minutes. You just need to get the wort free of grain particles.

For your questions, I agree with The Pol on 1 and 3. For number 2, I would sparge for ~ 40 minutes using my large MLT, but ~60 minutes with the small MLT. It all depends on the equipment you are using.

-a.
I think your strike water temperature is low as well. My 2 cents.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:10 AM   #10
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Okay, he is low...

ProMash is giving me about 167F for strike, assuming a preheated MLT.

How bout the rest of yall?



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