well if your heating up water to 170 thats a batch sparge right there.
No, that's a direct fired mash out, which isn't even necessary. Sparging is rinsing the grains, which we don't do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brewjunky
I don't see how this method is any faster other then you can adjust your temps with your heater etc.
Did you read my post above?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brewjunky
Your still having to rinse the bag with 170 degress water to get all the sugars out. or squeeze 10 lbs of grain in a bag to extract whats in the bag. Then you have to wash the bag after which must be a PITA with all of those grain husks sticking in there.
No, that's why this is a No Sparge method.
Cleaning the bag is easy if you remember to keep the seams on the outside. It's basically just a dump then a rinse. I can probably clean the bag in half the time it takes to clean my mash tun.
I've been doing a series of lagers with the BiaB, so I've been doing 90 min boils and chilling to below 50, but if I were doing an ale and stayed on task, I bet that i could get it in the fermenter in about 3 hours.
1.Mash for 70 minutes and then mash out at 170 F for 20 minutes. That's 90 minutes total.
I'm curious, what temp water do you add to achieve 170 degree Mash out? Given the simplicity of this and your efficiency numbers, I would like to try this before I build a MLT.
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I'm curious, what temp water do you add to achieve 170 degree Mash out? Given the simplicity of this and your efficiency numbers, I would like to try this before I build a MLT.
I pretty sure he doesn't add water. I directly heat the mash to raise the temp.
How do you handle the grain dust making your wort cloudy?
I use a similar technique with my partial-mash batches on the stovetop. I have mashed in the bag with a small cooler and using a kettle with heat on the stove. The main problem for me is the cloudy wort from the suspended grain particles left by not running through a grain bed for filtering.
My solution so far has been to heat the wort to 180 to stop the conversion (and help kill any unwanted germs), then cover and let it sit for while to settle the dust to the bottom. After that I siphon the clear(er) wort off of the settled gunk and then start my boil.
Sure would be nice to not have to wait for the settling and use another vessel in which to siphon the wort!
So no sparging? How do you get that much efficiency without sparging?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lustreking
Maybe some combination of the thin mash and fine grind??
Seriously -- I am very curious about this too. Even with a really fine grind and a thin mash, you would need to do a really long mash to get good conversion and extraction. Clearly you aren't lengthening your mash time to compensate.
All the conventional brewing wisdom I have read says that the maximum theoretical extraction rates you will get from no-sparge brewing is in the 65% range. How can you get above this theoretical maximum without a sparge? (Note that's extract efficiency, and not even brewhouse efficiency.)
All the conventional brewing wisdom I have read says that the maximum theoretical extraction rates you will get from no-sparge brewing is in the 65% range. How can you get above this theoretical maximum without a sparge? (Note that's extract efficiency, and not even brewhouse efficiency.)
I believe people do it all of the time. I started off doing all-grain in a bag and I routinely hit 75% brewhouse efficiency (I never measured extract efficiency) with a 0.038" crush gap. Later, I moved to a 0.036" crush gap and I began hitting 78% efficiency routinely.
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