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Old 01-30-2013, 10:39 AM   #11
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Read up on "conditioning grain" as this will soften the kernels a bit and at the same time toughen the husks so they don't get ripped apart.

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Old 01-30-2013, 11:14 AM   #12
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I feel that crush should be set as tight as possible without compromising husk integrity.
My approach is kind of the opposite of this. I go as wide as possible without leaving any whole grain kernels behind. That's .038-.040 on my mill. Expose the starches, stir really well and the enzymes will find them. Flour is for making bread, not beer. I don't chase efficiency numbers, I look for consistency.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:27 AM   #13
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My approach is kind of the opposite of this. I go as wide as possible without leaving any whole grain kernels behind. That's .038-.040 on my mill. Expose the starches, stir really well and the enzymes will find them. Flour is for making bread, not beer. I don't chase efficiency numbers, I look for consistency.
But why look for consistency at 60% when others find it at 75 to 80%? Tighten the mill until your efficiency is what you want or you start having lauter or sparge problems.
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Old 01-30-2013, 11:43 AM   #14
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But why look for consistency at 60% when others find it at 75 to 80%? Tighten the mill until your efficiency is what you want or you start having lauter or sparge problems.
If you expose the endosperm and stir, you won't be getting 60% efficiency. For beers in the 1.060 range, I hit pretty close to 75% every time. My crush looks pretty close to what the OP showed in his first post. Chunky starch, little to no flour.


edit:
Not saying there's anything wrong with a floury crush. BIAB guys go really fine and have no problems. It's just not for me.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:50 PM   #15
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My gap is around .38 and the crush doesn't get too floury and I get a decent repeatably efficiency I am happy with. I do have to use a corded drill. I had the same issue with the cordless one I had been using not being able to get the rollers going. Sometimes it would work for a bit then stop again. But there are some cheap cordless drills out there that do the job just fine.

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Old 01-31-2013, 07:17 PM   #16
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Thanks gduck, what efficiency are you getting at 0.038"? I'd lime to hit between 70-75%. Obviously, I just want to be consistent, but more consistent than 60%.

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Old 01-31-2013, 09:23 PM   #17
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I have a JSP maltmill set at 0.045" and my crush looks fairly similar to yours (mine is possibly a bit finer). I consistently get 85% mash/lauter efficiency with that setting.

-a.

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Old 01-31-2013, 11:44 PM   #18
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Thanks gduck, what efficiency are you getting at 0.038"? I'd lime to hit between 70-75%. Obviously, I just want to be consistent, but more consistent than 60%.
Pretty much any beer I do under 1.065 I'm at right around 75% effeciency.
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:05 AM   #19
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Sorry, to rehash an old thread. I just used my MM2 for the first time at the factory standard 0.045", and I got 60% efficiency. Really, irritated me because I undershot my target SG by 7 points. Either way, I tried setting the MM2 to 0.035", but I had a hard time getting my cordless drill to crush the grain. I'm guessing I'm going to have to go out and buy a corded drill. Are you guys using gaps less than 0.040" using a corded drill/motor to spin the mills?

Thanks in advance.
I'm still using a .035 gap, And I do use a corded 1/2" low speed drill. I just got a 1/2" cordless drill and can't wait to give it a spin.
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Old 02-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #20
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I tried 0.045" on my MM2-2 and was not happy with the efficiency. The malt was conditioned prior to milling. The crush looked good. The flow rate through my RIMS was very high and that was telling. A normal crush with my RIMS does not flow that well. The efficiency was in the mid 70's.

My last brew used a 0.035" setting and the malt was again conditioned prior to the crush. The crush was very fine and I feared a stuck mash. But the husks were nearly intact. Clearly, the conditioning was very helpful. The flow rate through my RIMS was OK. It was almost wheat-like in its low flow rate, but was adequate. The efficiency was back into the mid 80's. So I'd say that in my case, bumping the gap to around 0.038" might be ideal.

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