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Old 01-18-2009, 07:56 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post
If you want to save a small bit of time, this would be true. However, this thread is about maximizing your efficiency, in which case it is a good idea to stir your mash after adding new sparge water (stirring and vorlaufing only takes me a couple of minutes, so it is worth it IMO).
Cool, I'll try it next time.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:51 PM   #52
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Denny wrote:

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My process and results are like Jerry's.
My process and results I learned from Denny.

Thanks Denny,

You have helped me and countless others with your batch sparge writeup and your posts on various forums.
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Old 01-19-2009, 04:12 PM   #53
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We all help each other, man....that's the great thing about this hobby!

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Old 01-24-2009, 01:44 AM   #54
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Default better eff

I was getting in the sixties with my 'into the boiler' efficiency. My process was to mill the grain at the LHBS that is set at .40, mash for 60 minutes and then do a single sparge. I was unhappy with my eff into the boiler, so I started doing an infusion to bring the grain to 170 before lautering. That raised my eff a few points, but I was still in the sixties.

I made a friend and used his crankandstein set at .30 and my eff went up to the mid seventies, but it is a pain to borrow his mill every time I want to brew.

Finally, after almost two years of brewing, I discovered that I can use grain crushed at .40, mash for 60 minutes, infuse with boiling water to raise temp to 170 and then lauter slowly into the kettle, then sparge at 170, then lauter slowly, and I can get in the eighties for eff into the kettle.

My mash tun has copper tubing connected to a ball valve to get the wort out. For two years I had been just opening it up and letting it rip when I lauter. For grain milled at .30 my efficiency is good when I lauter fast, but for grain milled at .40 I need to lauter slower to get good efficiency.

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Old 01-24-2009, 03:10 AM   #55
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For grain milled at .30 my efficiency is good when I lauter fast, but for grain milled at .40 I need to lauter slower to get good efficiency.
What is the mash thickness that you use to mash with?

One thing that can happen is that as you thin out and raise the temp of the mash that you convert some more of the starches that haven't been converted so far. The slower you lauter the more time you give this conversion. Since the conversion happens at higher temps you should have also seen a drop in attenuation for the beers done with .40 grain and a slow lauter compared to the ones done with .40 grain and a fast lauter.

Another effect might be that it takes longer for the sugars to be washed out of the larger grits and that a longer rest after the addition of sparge water benefits this process.

Kai
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:15 PM   #56
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I mash with 1.0 quarts per gallon

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Old 01-24-2009, 11:15 PM   #57
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Try 2 qt/lb next time and see how much efficiency you get w/o using the mash-out.

Kai

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Old 02-16-2009, 05:26 AM   #58
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My last batch I tried mashing with 2 qt/lb and skipped the mash out - I got 74% efficiency into the kettle. I'm happy with this - I can skip the mash out and just do one sparge which makes the brew day a bit quicker.

Now I can follow recipes and come close to the target gravities. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Old 04-10-2009, 04:55 PM   #59
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Nice work. I m also trying to build up some good points on extraction efficiency. I will surely share all related issues here. Hope it may prove useful for some. For more details, members can pm me. I m always there at the service.

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Old 04-27-2009, 09:58 PM   #60
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This comment doesn't increase efficiency from the Mash, but it is something I've learned that should be kept in mind by all grain brewers.

The two most important numbers during the brew are the OG after the boil and the gravity before the boil (in my humble opinion!).

I did all sorts of reading and research before starting to brew and didn't really see a lot about checking the gravity before boiling. It really is one of the most important checks in the process. If you know your boil off rate (you should) you can calculate what the gravity should be in order to nail your OG. When I batch sparge, I just keep batching and diluting whats already in the boil kettle until I hit my desired pre-boil gravity. Ever since I started doing this I've never missed my OG.

Pangea

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