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Old 11-18-2010, 09:25 PM   #91
Ben_Persitz
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I have a question about hot side aeration.

I'm using a 5 gallon Igloo cooler as my MLT. I have a 5 gallon brewpot and a 6.5 gallon plastic bucket.

I want to lauter into my 6.5 gallon bucket because it is see through. This way I can pre mark 4.5 gallons of wort (for my 3.5 gallon batch) in marker on the outside and know when I have the right amount of wort.

However, I then have to get it into my brewpot to boil. Should I be concerned about pouring from the bucket into the brewpot as far as hot side aeration goes?

Would it be better to just lauter straight into the brew pot and mark out 4.5 gallons in tape and guesstimate the levels?

The other concern is that if I lauter straight into my brewpot then I have to heat my sparge water, then transfer it to the plastic bucket while I drain off my first runnings.

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Old 11-20-2010, 07:04 PM   #92
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I decided to use masking tape on my 5 gallon brewpot to mark off gallons (on the outside) so I can know how much wort I've collected. I'll just use my plastic bucket to hold my sparge water after I heat it. The first runnings shouldn't take too long to collect and my water should stay hot.

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Old 11-28-2010, 08:23 PM   #93
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1. I need a new thermometer
2. I need a grain mill
3. I need to figure a better way to mash rather than a 10 gallon cooler. I've tried and CAN'T get my temps right.
4. Would a piece of software help?

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Old 11-28-2010, 08:56 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrimpy View Post
3. I need to figure a better way to mash rather than a 10 gallon cooler. I've tried and CAN'T get my temps right.
Are you using a round igloo or rubbermaid cooler? i have no problem with mine. i put the water in about 15 degrees more than my desired mash temperature and it sticks to within a degree or two for the whole 60 mins.
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Old 12-20-2010, 04:48 PM   #95
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I batch sparge, and I find I get better efficiency (76-78%) with smaller grain bills (8-10 lbs). As the bills get bigger, I see a decline, stopping at around 68-70% when my mashtun is maxed out (17-??? lbs).

I figure the difference has to do, at least in part, with the fact that the smaller my grain bill is, the closer I get to raising my mash temp to 170 during the first runoff.

[Explanation, if needed: With a small mash I’m using less mash water and so I am required to add some amount of infusion water prior to my first runoff if I’m going to collect half my pre-boil volume with each runoff. I make an effort to get the mash as close to 170 as possible with that first infusion, and that usually results in an infusion of boiling water. I’d expect my efficiency in that first runoff to be higher the closer the mash is to 170. With session beers, I’m pretty much nailing 170. With monster mashes, there’s enough water in the mash already so I don’t infuse and my 1st runoff happens at whatever temp my mash finished. The second runoff happens under the same conditions regardless of grain bill size, so I it’s only in that first infusion where there’s a difference.]

That’s my theory, anyway. I do wonder if the amount of grain alone has an effect on efficiency as well, though it doesn’t seem like it should, otherwise professional breweries would be suffering hellishly low efficiencies.

Anyone else use the same practice I do and see the same results?

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Old 01-24-2011, 05:42 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiser View Post
Nice write-up. I'm currently trying to validate some more of the points about extraction efficiency. In particular mash thickness, crush, mash-out and time. But that actually applies to fly and batch sparging.

Here is some info on what factors affect the lauter efficiency part of the brewhouse efficiency when batch sparging.

Kai
THAT WAS A GOOD READ,DIDNT UNDERSTAND IT COMPLETLY,BUT LEARNED ALOT ANYWAY
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:52 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by IPAAAA View Post
16lb total grain

16x1.5 (qts of water calculation)= 24 qtrs of water divided by 4(4 qts in a gallon) = 6 gal water for the mash

16x.125 (grain absorption calculation) = 2 gal of water absorbed by grains during mash

6-2= 4 gals of wort is what you should get from the mash

So 7 (total boil amount needed) -4 (wort amount already collected) = 3 gal of water needed to sparge with

Hopefully that helps you. You will should get about 4 gallons of wort from the mash then will need 3 more gallons to sparge with to reach your 7 gallon boil size. It might be a little more then 3 gallons depending on ur MLT setup and what not but this should get you started.
Assuming the 1.071 OG that Shay was shooting for is it likely that sparging with only 3g of water would be enough to fully rinse the sugars out of the grain?

I ask mainly because I'm almost always brewing 6-8% beers and regularly was ending up with 55-70% efficiency depending on the batch. I was using the double batch sparge method Bobby came up with but even more so with 3g of sparge water being split in half... you can't bring your mash up to ~165-170 with 1.5 gallons of sparge water.

I got a grain mill recently and still didn't get above 70% until my last batch when I ignored my brewing software's sparge calculation and just sparged with a full 5g (2.5g x2 infusions) and then boiled 90 min to make up for the extra wort I collected. So I guess I really have 2 things I'm not sure about.

1) In general, is there some good way for figuring out how much sparge water you need to properly rinse all the sugars out that is based on your recipe's ingredients, target OG, etc? Most brew software seems to just accept your qts/lb of grain ratio and then calculate how much sparge water you need to hit your intended end volume...as far as I can tell it's not factoring in whether you've got enough sparge water to get consistent efficiency.

2) If you're in a situation where you use brew software to calculate your volumes and it spits out a small number for your sparge like <=3g are you more likely to get better efficiency if you do a single sparge than if you break it up and do the double batch sparge? That would be more likely to get you to ~170 at least.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:18 PM   #98
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I have a quick question on dead space/ left behind wort. My cooler is a little older and doesnt have the nice channel leading to the drain like some of the new ones, so i notice a decent amount of wort left behind as I scoop the grains out for cleaning.

Would i be getting some nasties if after collecting my last batch sparge to scoop the grains out of the cooler and collect those last few quarts left behind in the bottom for the boil?

I ask this because I did my first AG today and was way low, (61%) with a pretty good crush.

EDIT: I know this is not going to be the fix all solution (I missed my sparge temp as well) but am starting to look at small places to get a few points back.

Thanks

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Old 03-13-2011, 08:46 PM   #99
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Personally, I would worry about hitting mash temperature and sparge temperature as desired and see what that does for your efficiency first. If you're still not where you want to be, *then* I might consider taking more extreme measures to raise my efficiency.

Brian

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Old 03-14-2011, 04:22 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strecker25 View Post
Would i be getting some nasties if after collecting my last batch sparge to scoop the grains out of the cooler and collect those last few quarts left behind in the bottom for the boil?
Assuming the dead space is below a false bottom, why not just create a dip tube to get almost all the wort out from each sparge without having to scoop out everything, etc.?
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