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06-01-2012, 05:11 PM
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#31
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Read aloud: I'm a dumbass
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 3,925
Liked 171 Times on 147 Posts Likes Given: 9
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you could either add a 45* elbow or just don't worry about it. By the final sparge you're leaving behind very thin wort. Adjust your sparge water volume accordingly so you have enough. I always prepare more sparge water than I need.
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Den Faaborg Bryggeri
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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06-01-2012, 06:08 PM
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#32
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Granger, IN
Posts: 358
Liked 32 Times on 28 Posts Likes Given: 3
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I use a Kettle screen - 12" Long I ordered when I bought my cooler conversion kit. I've done 4 all grain batches with this setup so far and I'm very happy with it.
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06-01-2012, 09:12 PM
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#33
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fallon, NV
Posts: 173
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMNOTL8
I thought I might add this tip... I got my 10 gallon igloo cooler at Wal-mart.com http://alturl.com/atxer for $39.98. The exact same cooler on the Igloo company website is $77.99!
Another question for everyone... Due to the drain hole being about 1 inch above the bottom, do you have a lot of dead space in the bottom? I mine with just water until the siphon action stopped and had almost 80oz of fluid left!
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I leave about 1 1/2 qts. with a 10 gallon round and SS braid. A little slower draining allows more wort to drain from the grain.
Bob
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06-01-2012, 09:15 PM
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#34
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Read aloud: I'm a dumbass
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 3,925
Liked 171 Times on 147 Posts Likes Given: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobBailey
I leave about 1 1/2 qts. with a 10 gallon round and SS braid. A little slower draining allows more wort to drain from the grain.
Bob
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This is true, before siphon is broken more liquid can settle to the bottom.
__________________
_________________________________
Skal!
Den Faaborg Bryggeri
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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06-01-2012, 09:19 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 6,364
Liked 1037 Times on 1017 Posts Likes Given: 35
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If you can connect a hose that extends below the bottom of the MLT it will drain more completely before it loses the siphon. This does nothing to combat the slow settling of liquid from the grain column. Sparging slower will help that some.
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Walmart is about the only reason for open or concealed carry that I can get behind. -Randar
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06-02-2012, 03:39 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: waterloo, IA
Posts: 167
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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Started with a 16 inch braid for my first few batches, cut it down to 8 inches and it still works great. have a coil of copper wire inside to to prevent any damage during the stirring process, and i stir pretty aggresively. i only sparge slow when i do a pumpkin ale otherwise once it runs clear, wide open baby
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06-02-2012, 05:26 PM
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#37
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 146
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The only time I have had an issue with my braid was when I brewed with a pump for the first time. I recirculated waaaay too fast and it crimped the braid. Since then I haven't had any issues. We get 84% eff with a hwh supply hose about 2" diameter and runs just straight across the mash tun (converted keg). Some day we will get a false bottom but I am happy with 84%.
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09-10-2012, 05:31 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 869
Liked 79 Times on 75 Posts Likes Given: 424
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Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.
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09-10-2012, 05:40 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 6,364
Liked 1037 Times on 1017 Posts Likes Given: 35
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by JordanThomas
Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.
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A second hose clamp or wrap in copper wire.
__________________
Walmart is about the only reason for open or concealed carry that I can get behind. -Randar
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09-11-2012, 12:47 AM
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#40
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BIAB Expert Tailor, custom quality BIAB bags at reasonable prices with quick shipping
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jersey Shore, Jersey
Posts: 4,876
Liked 129 Times on 117 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanThomas
Does anyone have any recommentations for getting rid of some of the braid threads sharp ends? I used a dremel to get rid of the fittings on my braid, but the ends are really sharp. I'd like to prevent getting cuts cleaning the tun, so any tips would be awesome.
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A decent pair of scissors will trim the end of a frayed braid...the stainless wires are so fine the trim pretty easily w/ scissors.
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