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Old 05-26-2012, 01:59 PM   #21
corax
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Originally Posted by 540perry View Post
Maybe using one of the bigger (about 1" ID water tank) braids would solve that.
I would think just the opposite. A smaller braid would be under less pressure per unit area.

I wonder if bed depth has anything to do with it? I have a rectangular cooler with a shallow bed, and I've never had a problem.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #22
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It makes you wonder if all braids are created equal. I've never had a totally stuck mash, but I've had some that required a serious, time-consuming intervention to get things moving again. Especially with rye or wheat.

Even though I stir to the sides and don't touch the braid when I'm mashing, the one I replaced recently looked like a truck-flattened armadillo tail, purely from the weight of the mash. And that happened very early on.

Maybe using one of the bigger (about 1" ID water tank) braids would solve that.

My results so far with the spring reinforcement make me think, hmm, as many complaints as we hear about stuck mashes, why not just add the spring/copper coil from the get-go?
All braids are not created equal, and my experience is that using a larger diameter doesn't help. I'm about to start running some experiments with different braids. I hope to be able to recommend a particular readily available brand and part # by the time I'm done.
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Old 05-26-2012, 04:25 PM   #23
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I wonder if bed depth has anything to do with it? I have a rectangular cooler with a shallow bed, and I've never had a problem.
Doesn't make any difference in my experience.
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:00 PM   #24
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So I've seen many videos where a stainless steel braided weave hose (from tiolet supply line hose) is used for filtering the grains after mashing/during the sparge. However most use a 12" hose and I am wondering if there is any merit to using longer ss hose (as I've seen 2' and 4' lengths in the hardware store) to prevent clogging or "stuck sparge". Thanks for any input.


I use a 10 gallon round cooler and a 30" braid. I used to have a 5 gallon with a 12" braid and experienced a few stuck mashes. No problems with the 30 incher, even with wheat and rye.

Bob
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:31 PM   #25
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I learned a couple things on this that may help. Bed depth does matter but only if it exceeds 10" deep or so. The thinner the braid (I.e. less than a 1/2 inch) can be crushed so a 1/2 inch seems to be what the cool kids are doing.

Also, Palmer talks about the braid needing to be uniform on the bottom as best possible as that affects the fluid-dynamics of the mash getting out of the tun (in other words, coiling extra line isn't any more productive).

I had a stick sparge yesterday -- my first. Classic solutions to the stuck sparge did not work. When I got the mash out, I discovered that my paddling the mash pulled the braid up from the bottom of the tun. When I placed the braid back to the bottom, the stuck sparge was solved.

I am not a scientist so i have no idea why that mattered but I can't argue the cause and effect of it.

Hope that helps.

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Old 05-27-2012, 05:43 PM   #26
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I use a 3/8 braid....never crushed in 422 batches.

Palmer is talking about fly sparging. For batch sparging it doesn't matter.

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Old 05-27-2012, 08:23 PM   #27
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Default my ss braid design

ive been using an 18" long, 3/4" diameter hose in a unique configuration born of frustration and miscellaneous parts laying around. i just lined it with 3/8" silicone tubing to prevent collapse and it has worked great for 5 AG batches, both fly and batch with over 80% efficiency. i had to anchor it down a bit with a brass fitting and a zip tie towards the rear of the manifold to keep it from floating up in the mash. i know a false bottom would have been easier, but i was determined to make a SS set-up that worked.

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Old 05-28-2012, 10:01 PM   #28
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Some great responses, thank you! Wanted to add a picture of my mash tun and add some more information I should have included in my previous post.

I do have a wound copper wire inside of my braid.

If you notice, I have separated the braid into two halves with a coupling in the middle to add a little weight to keep the braid on the bottom.

I do not crush the grains at home; I use the mill at the LHBS. It does not seem to be excessively fine.

My last batch was a kolsch. It had about 2.5lbs of white wheat. But the mash drained about the same as my previous batch. Fast at first and very slowly after the initial couple of quarts. I have not used the rice hulls. I actually meant to but forgot to purchase them...

I believe my braid is 1/2" or 3/8". I can't remember...

2012-05-28_15-30-24_152.jpg  
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:18 PM   #29
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I would make the circle a little smaller so it was exposed on all three sides to your grain bed. It looks like it gets smushed up against the sides of the bucket. My MT is a rectangle with a straight braid, never had any problems.

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Old 06-01-2012, 03:46 PM   #30
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I thought I might add this tip... I got my 10 gallon igloo cooler at Wal-mart.com http://alturl.com/atxer for $39.98. The exact same cooler on the Igloo company website is $77.99!

Another question for everyone... Due to the drain hole being about 1 inch above the bottom, do you have a lot of dead space in the bottom? I mine with just water until the siphon action stopped and had almost 80oz of fluid left!

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