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-   -   Mash tun question.... (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/mash-tun-question-349910/)

duckredbeard 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)

I use a 10 gallon cylindrical cooler with a stainless false bottom. Never had a stuck sparge and I get 85% efficiencies. To ramp up to mashout temps, I have about 1 gallon of water in my kettle, just under boiling. I recirc into the kettle with heat on, the water is basically there to get the pump primed and give it a head start on heating. I recirc stirring gently until the mash temp is 165, then I allow the kettle (which has been maintaining about a gallon - heated, but not boiling) to return to the mash tun. Several times I open the mash tun drain full open to flush grain out of the mash tun lower drain plumbing. I typically hit 168-170 doing this. It is a little tricky maintaining two valves, but if I lose my prime I just shut off the pump and open the mash return valve at the top of the mash tun. The volume in the hose returns to the pump and pushes air out of the pickup of the kettle. Since I use a recirc technique to get my mashout temp, I don't recirc after mashout. I get great wort clarity.

Here are some photos: The straight tube is the sparge sprinkler (I fly sparge), the bent one is for strike water in and recirculation. The tube connecting the false bottom to the is a short section of 1/2 OD PTFE tubing from Lowe's. The bulkhead fittings are Swagelok SS-810-11-8, stainless tubing is from a company that makes hydraulic plumbing. Stainlessbrewing.com has the fittings and tubing. Quick disconnects are camlocks from stainlessbrewing.com. I'd buy from them again.


duckredbeard 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)

I use a 10 gallon cylindrical cooler with a stainless false bottom. Never had a stuck sparge and I get 85% efficiencies. To ramp up to mashout temps, I have about 1 gallon of water in my kettle, just under boiling. I recirc into the kettle with heat on, the water is basically there to get the pump primed and give it a head start on heating. I recirc stirring gently until the mash temp is 165, then I allow the kettle (which has been maintaining about a gallon - heated, but not boiling) to return to the mash tun. Several times I open the mash tun drain full open to flush grain out of the mash tun lower drain plumbing. I typically hit 168-170 doing this. It is a little tricky maintaining two valves, but if I lose my prime I just shut off the pump and open the mash return valve at the top of the mash tun. The volume in the hose returns to the pump and pushes air out of the pickup of the kettle. Since I use a recirc technique to get my mashout temp, I don't recirc after mashout. I get great wort clarity.

Here are some photos: The straight tube is the sparge sprinkler (I fly sparge), the bent one is for strike water in and recirculation. The tube connecting the false bottom to the is a short section of 1/2 OD PTFE tubing from Lowe's. The bulkhead fittings are Swagelok SS-810-11-8, stainless tubing is from a company that makes hydraulic plumbing. Stainlessbrewing.com has the fittings and tubing. Quick disconnects are camlocks from stainlessbrewing.com. I'd buy from them again.


duckredbeard 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)

I use a 10 gallon cylindrical cooler with a stainless false bottom. Never had a stuck sparge and I get 85% efficiencies. To ramp up to mashout temps, I have about 1 gallon of water in my kettle, just under boiling. I recirc into the kettle with heat on, the water is basically there to get the pump primed and give it a head start on heating. I recirc stirring gently until the mash temp is 165, then I allow the kettle (which has been maintaining about a gallon - heated, but not boiling) to return to the mash tun. Several times I open the mash tun drain full open to flush grain out of the mash tun lower drain plumbing. I typically hit 168-170 doing this. It is a little tricky maintaining two valves, but if I lose my prime I just shut off the pump and open the mash return valve at the top of the mash tun. The volume in the hose returns to the pump and pushes air out of the pickup of the kettle. Since I use a recirc technique to get my mashout temp, I don't recirc after mashout. I get great wort clarity.

Here are some photos: The straight tube is the sparge sprinkler (I fly sparge), the bent one is for strike water in and recirculation. The tube connecting the false bottom to the is a short section of 1/2 OD PTFE tubing from Lowe's. The bulkhead fittings are Swagelok SS-810-11-8, stainless tubing is from a company that makes hydraulic plumbing. Stainlessbrewing.com has the fittings and tubing. Quick disconnects are camlocks from stainlessbrewing.com. I'd buy from them again.


duckredbeard 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)

I use a 10 gallon cylindrical cooler with a stainless false bottom. Never had a stuck sparge and I get 85% efficiencies. To ramp up to mashout temps, I have about 1 gallon of water in my kettle, just under boiling. I recirc into the kettle with heat on, the water is basically there to get the pump primed and give it a head start on heating. I recirc stirring gently until the mash temp is 165, then I allow the kettle (which has been maintaining about a gallon - heated, but not boiling) to return to the mash tun. Several times I open the mash tun drain full open to flush grain out of the mash tun lower drain plumbing. I typically hit 168-170 doing this. It is a little tricky maintaining two valves, but if I lose my prime I just shut off the pump and open the mash return valve at the top of the mash tun. The volume in the hose returns to the pump and pushes air out of the pickup of the kettle. Since I use a recirc technique to get my mashout temp, I don't recirc after mashout. I get great wort clarity.

Here are some photos: The straight tube is the sparge sprinkler (I fly sparge), the bent one is for strike water in and recirculation. The tube connecting the false bottom to the is a short section of 1/2 OD PTFE tubing from Lowe's. The bulkhead fittings are Swagelok SS-810-11-8, stainless tubing is from a company that makes hydraulic plumbing. Stainlessbrewing.com has the fittings and tubing. Quick disconnects are camlocks from stainlessbrewing.com. I'd buy from them again.


duckredbeard 08-27-2012 06:22 PM

5 Attachment(s)

I use a 10 gallon cylindrical cooler with a stainless false bottom. Never had a stuck sparge and I get 85% efficiencies. To ramp up to mashout temps, I have about 1 gallon of water in my kettle, just under boiling. I recirc into the kettle with heat on, the water is basically there to get the pump primed and give it a head start on heating. I recirc stirring gently until the mash temp is 165, then I allow the kettle (which has been maintaining about a gallon - heated, but not boiling) to return to the mash tun. Several times I open the mash tun drain full open to flush grain out of the mash tun lower drain plumbing. I typically hit 168-170 doing this. It is a little tricky maintaining two valves, but if I lose my prime I just shut off the pump and open the mash return valve at the top of the mash tun. The volume in the hose returns to the pump and pushes air out of the pickup of the kettle. Since I use a recirc technique to get my mashout temp, I don't recirc after mashout. I get great wort clarity.

Here are some photos: The straight tube is the sparge sprinkler (I fly sparge), the bent one is for strike water in and recirculation. The tube connecting the false bottom to the is a short section of 1/2 OD PTFE tubing from Lowe's. The bulkhead fittings are Swagelok SS-810-11-8, stainless tubing is from a company that makes hydraulic plumbing. Stainlessbrewing.com has the fittings and tubing. Quick disconnects are camlocks from stainlessbrewing.com. I'd buy from them again.


BrewerinBR 08-27-2012 07:05 PM

1 Attachment(s)

I have a 10 gallon round rubbermaid beverage cooler I built a copper manifold using 1/2 inch copper pipe with hacksaw cuts half way through. Pulled out the valve and used 1/2 inch close nipple and some high temp nylon bushings and 3/4 inch stainless steel washers and a lead free gate valve all of this I acquired at Lowes for about $60.00 total including the cooler... the close nipple is screwed to the female fitting soldered to the valve goes through wall of the cooler and then two of the bushings, a small stainless washer and a large stainless washer ant the female fitting is tightened on. The rest of it just fits together. Works very well been using this one for almost a year without any issues.



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