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Old 03-09-2013, 01:41 AM   #51
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Step 7 & 8


You need to use other water (maybe just some hot tap water) to preheat the MLT, not part of your measured strike water. Then you dump that other water out before adding all your strike water to the MLT.

Step 18. You need to know volume of first runnings. Then 6.5 gal minus first runnings volume is volume of sparge water.

Step 24. If your pre oil gravity is 1.044 or higher, and you boil 6.5 gal down to 5.5 gal, your post boil grav will be 1.052 or higher. I picked 1.052 which is about 10% below planned gravity. I wouldn't add DME unless you are going to be further off than this. I used the brewer's friend boil off calculator here for the math... Made up the 10% variance but feels right. http://www.brewersfriend.com/dilution-and-boiloff-gravity-calculator/


Thanks. Is it true then that after the mash no more water will be absorbed by the grain so i can measure exactly how much more water I need for the batch sparge.

How much water does it take to preheat the MLT?
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:00 AM   #52
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Actually some people report getting a bit more out in the sparge run off than they put in due to volume of dissolved sugar they are collecting. It is small amount but I normally find I end up with about 7.2 gal when I aim to collect 7 gal. When that happens I boil for a few extra min and add my 60 min hops when kettle volume hits 7 gal.

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Old 03-09-2013, 02:06 AM   #53
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I preheat tank with 1 gal hot tap water for 30 min. This is not necessary but you need to pick a method and do it that way all the time. If you don't preheat the tun you will compensate by using somewhat higher temp strike water. I believe preheating the tun helps me reach a stable mash temp faster and more reliably but that could just be imagination.

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Old 03-09-2013, 02:18 AM   #54
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If you're batch sparging, you won't need a HLT. Just a pot of water. You can use one of your pots if it has a valve for fly sparging. Likewise, you can fly sparge with a measuring cup if you really want to be hands on...

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Old 03-09-2013, 02:22 AM   #55
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If you're batch sparging, you won't need a HLT. Just a pot of water. You can use one of your pots if it has a valve for fly sparging. Likewise, you can fly sparge with a measuring cup if you really want to be hands on...
Isnt there a method where you just measure the sparge water and pour it into a colander and let it sprinkle into the mlt.

I wont be doing that. I dont understand it enough.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:38 AM   #56
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Sorry I said preheat tank when I meant preheat mash tun. I use a cooler mash tun. Preheating allows me to use somewhat cooler strike water and reach stable mash temp faster. Maybe.

The water temp adjustment shows up in my software as using a smaller thermal mass for the tun than I used without pre heating. I believe i used #4.5 without preheating and #2 with oreheating. That is by preheating my tun with warm tap water I don't need to use so much of the heat energy stored in my strike water to raise the temp of the cooler up to 150. In reality it is probably a pretty small adjustment in the strike water temp, but my mash does seem to reach stable temp faster with preheating.

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Old 03-09-2013, 04:35 AM   #57
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There's a lot about the mashing process here in these posts....read them all

Water chemistry is not rocket science...research it...learn about your water and how you can adjust it based on dark beers, pale ales and IPA's, and lagers. RO water is a good thing. There are great posts on HBT about water chemistry

Grain mills can save you $$$ if you can get on a group buy...my last 55# sack of maris Otter was $34....run your grain thru your mill twice at a .035 gap

Yeast....re-use it....wash it...and use a yeast starter and stir plate

Oxygen....research it an d use it for your big beers with a good stone.....


Those are some things I wish I knew before my first all grain batch.....but the coolest thing was....my 1st AG batch tasted better than any extract batch I'd ever made.

Good Luck brother...congrats on going AG !

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Old 03-09-2013, 12:17 PM   #58
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I've never really understood the point of preheating my cooler mash tun as I find easy enough to just bump my strike temp two or three degrees. One thing that can be issue though (something I learned the hard way) is equipment and grain temps. As you learn your system store your equipment and grain at a consistent temp. If you leave your cooler and your grain in an icy cold garage and attempt to brew using your notes and recipe from a July brew your temps will way off. I simply leave my grain and mash tun in the basement and find all my numbers play happily.

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Old 03-09-2013, 02:39 PM   #59
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I've never really understood the point of preheating my cooler mash tun as I find easy enough to just bump my strike temp two or three degrees. One thing that can be issue though (something I learned the hard way) is equipment and grain temps. As you learn your system store your equipment and grain at a consistent temp. If you leave your cooler and your grain in an icy cold garage and attempt to brew using your notes and recipe from a July brew your temps will way off. I simply leave my grain and mash tun in the basement and find all my numbers play happily.

I understand what you are saying. I have no other place but my garage for stuff. Thats why I bring it all inside so it will be inside temp which is fairly constant year round. i wish i had a freakin basement.
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Old 03-09-2013, 02:54 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PastorofMuppets

I understand what you are saying. I have no other place but my garage for stuff. Thats why I bring it all inside so it will be inside temp which is fairly constant year round. i wish i had a freakin basement.
I bring mine inside night before brewing and still pre warm. Pre warming is easy step, do it at same time I'm confirming my tun is clean.

Other pre warm advantage is that sometimes I do back to back batches. Probably 30 min after one batch is done running off I'm dumping grain and adding strike water for next batch. I just dump the grain, don't aggressively rinse between batches. Works out that batch 1 pre warms for batch 2.
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