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Old 02-21-2013, 12:20 PM   #11
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The single best investment I made when I went AG was a 1 gallon measuring pitcher. It allowed me to track my volumes precisely and figure out where, and how much water, I was losing in my system.

Also, I have started purposefully overshooting my strike water temperatures by 2-4 degrees or so. That way I can add it to my tun, stir until it cools to just above my strike temp (1 degree or so above) then I dough in. Then I continue stirring until the temperature is even and I settle at my mash temp.

Otherwise you are boiling up extra water and throwing off your grain/water ratio if you end up coming in too low. And I rather have a fuller, slightly sweeter beer than a thinner, drier beer.

Volumes, volumes, volumes! And a good thermometer.



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Old 02-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #12
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so to confirm you dough in by adding grain to water not water to grain?

In palmer's book it clearly says add water to grain.

Will the kit have the amount of grain i need to start with 6.5 gallons into kettle?
When I did extract i hit gravity with 6.5 gallons and then 5.25 gallons into fermenter which left me with a perfect 5 gallon batch after trub.



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Old 02-21-2013, 12:33 PM   #13
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I add grain to water and stir as much as I can while i do it. If you add water to grain, you will have a rather difficult time breaking up dough balls and not scorching yourself.

I don't think it really matters how you do it, just as long as you end up with a good mix at the right temp with no balls.

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Old 02-21-2013, 12:45 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by PastorofMuppets View Post
so to confirm you dough in by adding grain to water not water to grain?

In palmer's book it clearly says add water to grain.

Will the kit have the amount of grain i need to start with 6.5 gallons into kettle?
When I did extract i hit gravity with 6.5 gallons and then 5.25 gallons into fermenter which left me with a perfect 5 gallon batch after trub.
I add water to the grain but it is a matter of preference not practicality. Most grain bills I am about 10 degrees drop in temp when I add the water to the grain so if I want a 152 degree mash I dump 162 degree water and hit the temp right on.

The volumes are easy to figure as well. The grains absorb pretty much the same amount of water per pound so add that up and nope I do not remember right off how much it was other than something like 1/4 quart per pound or something. Add the amount of water left under the screen to that along with the pre boil volume and that is where to start.

Hehe then you get to decide if you are going to do full volume boils or nor not
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:47 PM   #15
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Full volume boils are the only way to go!!!!

Not really but... kind of :P

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Old 02-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #16
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I guess I am weird. I add water then grain then more water until its just over the grain bed.

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Old 02-21-2013, 12:53 PM   #17
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I dont know how to mark my boil kettle to know how much wort i will end up with after the runoff. I can measure how much goes into the MLT and how much goes into the fermenter after the boil, but how can i know how much i get before boil? I have always done full volume 6.5 gal boils with extract. Am i supposed to check gravity before I boil or only after?
I was thinking of having DME on hand if I come up short of the intended gravity. ahhh so many questions i have. I just need to do a few batches and learn along the way. There are alot of blanks in my mind even though i feel like I have the basics in my head.

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Old 02-21-2013, 01:01 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by PastorofMuppets View Post
I dont know how to mark my boil kettle to know how much wort i will end up with after the runoff. I can measure how much goes into the MLT and how much goes into the fermenter after the boil, but how can i know how much i get before boil? I have always done full volume 6.5 gal boils with extract. Am i supposed to check gravity before I boil or only after?
I was thinking of having DME on hand if I come up short of the intended gravity. ahhh so many questions i have. I just need to do a few batches and learn along the way. There are alot of blanks in my mind even though i feel like I have the basics in my head.
I've found this problem more of a learning process. Once you get use to your system doing all grain, you get a feel for how much water you'll need. For me, it took about 3 times on my system to get a good feel. Now I make sure I boil with 7 gallons to get to 5.5 at the end for an hour long boil, but thats just me personally.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:02 PM   #19
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My advice is to physically fill your boiling kettle with water, one gallon at a time and measure the depth after each addition to determine exactly the gallons per inch in your kettle. That way if you know you need say 6.7 gallons pre-boil to boil down correctly in 60 minutes for a 5.0 gallon batch, you can simply make a mark on a stick at the proper depth in the kettle for 6.7 gallons and sparge until you reach that volume depth.

I say this because it's difficult to guesstimate your sparge water volume until you have your system dialed in. Much easier to just measure your wort depth in the kettle as you sparge.

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Old 02-21-2013, 01:10 PM   #20
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Having a site glass on the kettle to measure is great "bling" to have.... I really need to put one on mine.



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