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Old 06-21-2012, 06:42 PM   #11
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For what it's worth, I had a 1.01 OG on an IIPA and it ended up at 12.1% ABV with an FG of 1.010.


However given your recipe I would anticipate more like 1.020 FG putting it into barleywine territory rather than IIPA.
Echoed by the LHBS employee when I asked that we do more DME. "Looks like you're brewing a barleywine" Is there any way to get the FG lower than 1.020? Any way to sort of coax it along to that level?

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Cool, always glad to help! How much Citra in the dry hop, and what will you be pairing it with?

Citra because it's my favorite and I'm torn between Columbus or Cascade. I have time to decide though.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #12
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Echoed by the LHBS employee when I asked that we do more DME. "Looks like you're brewing a barleywine" Is there any way to get the FG lower than 1.020? Any way to sort of coax it along to that level?




Citra because it's my favorite and I'm torn between Columbus or Cascade. I have time to decide though.
You can try to dry it out adding some kind of sugar, (I´m thinking honey) that will get you down a couple of points but it´s really hard to know how many. Some people will say add champagne yeast but I´ve never done that and I don´t know if it is a good idea.
It is your beer so do whatever you feel doing with it. If it was mine I´ll just leave it and let it finish where it finishes. I definitly bottle this instead of kegging, it may need some time to mellow and the aging it´s faster in bottles than in a keg.
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:03 PM   #13
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Options for lower than 1.020:
Sugar (ferments 100%), different bug (Belgian yeast, bacteria, etc), raise temp (yeast picks up activity)...

With a 1.100 beer, 1.020 might be just about right. Very different from a 1.040 beer finishing at 1.020. You'll have to taste it and see. I wouldn't add sugar or a different yeast. I would definitely recommend raising the temp a few degrees at the end of fermentation to help the yeast finish up. It's possible it may not even get down to 1020, depending on the extract age & quality...just let it ride and see what happens. Again, trust your taste; with your beer cellar & knowledge you'll know if something's not right.

Re: hops---can't go wrong with either option! I would go Cascade, simply because I'd keep the Columbus for bittering (better bittering hop than Cacade), but I love Columbus dry hop. Both great.

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Old 06-21-2012, 07:12 PM   #14
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Options for lower than 1.020:
Sugar (ferments 100%), different bug (Belgian yeast, bacteria, etc), raise temp (yeast picks up activity)...

With a 1.100 beer, 1.020 might be just about right. Very different from a 1.040 beer finishing at 1.020. You'll have to taste it and see. I wouldn't add sugar or a different yeast. I would definitely recommend raising the temp a few degrees at the end of fermentation to help the yeast finish up. It's possible it may not even get down to 1020, depending on the extract age & quality...just let it ride and see what happens. Again, trust your taste; with your beer cellar & knowledge you'll know if something's not right.

Re: hops---can't go wrong with either option! I would go Cascade, simply because I'd keep the Columbus for bittering (better bittering hop than Cacade), but I love Columbus dry hop. Both great.
Always helpful. Thanks man!

Cellar is at 62 now. Will raise to 68 when fermentations slows? Or higher?
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #15
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68 is great as fermentation slows. Higher won't hurt, but 68 is great. I usually just pull mine out of my fermentation chamber and leave it at the ambient house temp, anywhere from 68 - 72 ish.

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:25 PM   #16
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UPDATE:

OG 1.101
FG 1.029

9.6% ABV at about 8 days in. All activity has stopped. I'll take another FG tomorrow and Sunday. If it remains the same, time to transfer to a secondary for dry-hopping and to reduce the amount of trub.


That's pretty damn big but I was sort of hoping for more. Of course, I might get more activity.

Will update this thread until the final product comes out. Thanks guys!

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:43 PM   #17
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For such a big OG I would have made a nice size (2 liter) starter & definitely let this one sit for a month or two in secondary. Raising the temp to 74 ish degrees after primary fermentation clears up should help things a bit. I was going to say I hope you dont ferment it too hot or be ready for a booze-ester-bomb. But 62 is excellent! Hope it turns out great, post back with the results.

P.S. Nice blog man! You are a hardcore trader.

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:44 PM   #18
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UPDATE:

OG 1.101
FG 1.029

9.6% ABV at about 8 days in. All activity has stopped. I'll take another FG tomorrow and Sunday. If it remains the same, time to transfer to a secondary for dry-hopping and to reduce the amount of trub.


That's pretty damn big but I was sort of hoping for more. Of course, I might get more activity.

Will update this thread until the final product comes out. Thanks guys!
If you haven't already, since primary ferm is done, bring it up to room temp (~68-70) and swirl the fermenter a bit. This can encourage yeast back up into suspension to chew more.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:44 PM   #19
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You could try pitching some WLP099 super high gravity yeast- a starter at high krausen will probably be able to pull some more gravity out of that beer. You may be bumping up against the alcohol tolerance of your dry yeast rather than the limit of the fermentables.

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:47 PM   #20
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You could try pitching some WLP099 super high gravity yeast- a starter at high krausen will probably be able to pull some more gravity out of that beer. You may be bumping up against the alcohol tolerance of your dry yeast rather than the limit of the fermentables.
This is probably true, but I figured it was worth a shot to warm and swirl. Champagne yeast is another option.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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