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10-21-2009, 10:47 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: McMurray, PA
Posts: 477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeufelBrew
Check it when it comes in. If you bought it from USAPUMPS, he had some mixups on delivery. I ordered mine a month ago, it was late (got it Monday), and it was the center inlet, not inline that I ordered.
However, Michael from USAPUMPS was quick to correct the issue and is sending replacement head. Smoking deal on pumps and gets me set to do my own no sparge.
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Yes, bought it from usapumps, they have already emailed the UPS tracking number, so I expect a quick delivery. I bought the Center inlet, I hope i get it!
At 100% positive feedback with 90 transactions I consider that solid and bought it.
If you bought on Ebay and had to wait a month for the wrong product then some Neg or at the least Neut feedback was in order.
__________________
"Dad always thought laughter was the best medicine, which I guess is why several of us died of tuberculosis."
www.TheFreeSpeak.com
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10-22-2009, 12:25 AM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Gainesville, Florida
Posts: 1,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremysavoy
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nope.
try it and see.
__________________
staygoldBREWING
Primary: RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse
On Tap: Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout
Bottled: Berliner Weisse
I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around. - Denny's Evil Concoctions
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10-22-2009, 01:52 AM
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#63
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Vendor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,682
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Keep wondering if its workable to incorporate an electric BK and recirculate. Guess I would have to keep a close eye on the fluid levels to prevent burning out the element.
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10-22-2009, 01:56 AM
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#64
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Beer Herder
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings
Keep wondering if its workable to incorporate an electric BK and recirculate. Guess I would have to keep a close eye on the fluid levels to prevent burning out the element.
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That's exactly what my system does. It's really not that tough to balance the flow - especially if you've got one of those uber-nice Bargain Fittings sightglasses like I do somewhere in the system. 
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10-22-2009, 02:18 AM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gardner, Kansas
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp
Quote:
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Originally Posted by BargainFittings
Keep wondering if its workable to incorporate an electric BK and recirculate. Guess I would have to keep a close eye on the fluid levels to prevent burning out the element.
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That's exactly what my system does. It's really not that tough to balance the flow - especially if you've got one of those uber-nice Bargain Fittings sightglasses like I do somewhere in the system. 
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JK, I thought you didn't recirculate?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by jkarp
Quote:
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Originally Posted by bakins
Do you ever recirculate just to main temps? I guess the cooler eliminates the need for that.
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Not unless I'm ramping to a new temp. Cooler holds temp great.
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10-22-2009, 03:15 AM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron ken
JK, I thought you didn't recirculate? 
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JK doesn't recirculate during the mash; only after the mash is complete and only then until 170 temp is hit. But you could easily recirculate the entire boil volume from mash in and maintain the mash temp with the PID in the Countertop Brutus 20 system. This thread made me think of that possibility to shave some time off the brew day. Would likely lose some efficiency, but not a ton.
Last edited by HarkinBanks; 10-22-2009 at 03:17 AM.
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10-22-2009, 10:13 AM
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#67
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 60
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i think i might have to build a system like this. I to am thinking of using a E-kettle for brewing inside in those cold winter months.
It also holds pretty cool quick and easy decoction mash possibility's no more lifting and pouring hot ass wort back into the mash tun
__________________
Primary 1:#10 American Wheat
Primary 2:
Kegged Haus Ale, Oktoberfest
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10-22-2009, 11:28 AM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 731
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If your brew kettle is large enough you can just use normal BIAB. I do it with an electric element. I just use a steamer basket to keep the bag up and off of the element.
The nice thing about Sacc's system (and jkarp's) is that you don't need a huge BK, because the water is split between the MLT and BK. (With BIAB, you generally need a BK at least twice the batch size bcs all the water is in with the grain.) One advantage of BIAB in a single vessel with a bag is that you get slightly better efficiency as you don't get as more wort absorbed by the grain -- the bag "squeezes" a little more wort out. And, no, I've never had issues with tannins.
I've been wanting to move up to 10 gallon batches. So that means for "normal" BIAB I need a 20 Gallon pot (at least). With a system like this, I can use my old 10 gallon cooler MLT and a 15 gallon BK. I'd have to rig a way to shut off the flow so I could never drain the BK completely during recirculation and dry fire the element. I like to be able to set my system and not be constantly monitoring it.
Okay, just rambling on....
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10-22-2009, 11:47 AM
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#69
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Beer Herder
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron ken
JK, I thought you didn't recirculate? 
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Actually, I did a continuous mash recirculation a few batches back with my Razzy Wheat. It worked extremely well. As for BIAB and grain absorption, I've been allowing the MLT to continue to drain during the boil. That's essentially another 60 minutes of sparge runoff that's so slow, most people wouldn't bother, but I'm getting grain absorption loss down into the 0.1 gal/lb range.
Last edited by jkarp; 10-22-2009 at 11:55 AM.
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10-22-2009, 04:48 PM
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#70
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Be good to your yeast...
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pflugerville, Texas
Posts: 5,426
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I have contemplated adding an electric element to the system, but if I were to do that I would go with the RIMS for dummies method because in his design there isn't any possibility of running the element dry (essentially, mount the element inside a tube that sits between the pump and MLT). Also I only have 110v 20A available in the garage, and we aren't planning on staying in this house long enough to make it worthwhile to upgrade to 220v service. A 2000w element is enough to maintain mash temps or to step but not enough to heat the whole volume to strike temp in a reasonable amount of time.
It isn't an accident this system looks a lot like jkarp's. I got the idea from reading his thread. 
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