This makes me wonder how little we can do and still get a good beer.
Skip the mash tun and sparging with BIAB.
Skip chilling with the no chill method.
Skip preparing a starter by using the "real wort" starter method.
Skip aerating by using olive oil in the starter.
Pretty soon, All-Grain will be quicker than extract
Yep it's that simple, and my volume worked out spot on (I was a quart short pre-boil because I spilled a quart of water trying to prime the pump ). I made a chart in the back of my brewlog notebook so I don't have to figure it out each time.
The ale pail is a #2 HDPE food grade ale pail, same one you get from LHBS. HDPE can handle the heat. Anything else cannot including glass... Better Bottles melt at just over 140*F... for more info on no chill see this thread, no sense re-hashing it all here.
Saweeet! Yeah, I'm already no chill (as you can see in my sig). I think I've done about 8 batches this way. I've heard Jamil say a couple of times that he thinks you get the best wort quality with no sparge. I don't understand why he doesn't do it, though.
Next beer no sparge - no chill - no hops.
ok, maybe hops.
__________________
staygoldBREWING
Primary:
RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse
On Tap:
Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout
Bottled:
Berliner Weisse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny's Evil Concoctions
I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around.
The sparge manifold in the cooler is a 3' piece of reinforced PVC tubing from Home Depot with holes drilled every 1/2" and a plug in the end. It's connected to a nipple sandwich which comes through the lid just like the pot lid.
mmmmmmmmm, nipple sandwich.
__________________
Why do you want to watch TV and listen to the stereo at the same time? Because I like to party.
Ok, so I just read an article on BYO about no sparge. It says,
Quote:
When you brew with the no-sparge method, this 3 to 5 gallons is added to the mash tun at the end of the mash, before recirculation, and allows the mash tun to be simply drained to achieve full boil volume. By using more grain and adding all the water during the mash, you can relax and not worry about mash pH, astringency and undershooting your gravity.
Sounds like they're adding the rest of the water at the end of the mash.
If I just mash with my total boil volume (7 gallons) I figure my strike temperature will be different as the water to grain ratio is drastically different. How did you calculate that?
I just might try this tomorrow.
__________________
staygoldBREWING
Primary:
RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse
On Tap:
Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout
Bottled:
Berliner Weisse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny's Evil Concoctions
I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around.
7gal*4=28 quarts. 28quarts/13lbs of grain= 2.15384615 quarts/lbs I just randomly picked 13 lbs. then go here http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
with a ration of 2.15, a grain temp of 60, and a desired temp of 155, your strike temp should be 166.
7gal*4=28 quarts. 28quarts/13lbs of grain= 2.15384615 quarts/lbs I just randomly picked 13 lbs. then go here http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
with a ration of 2.15, a grain temp of 60, and a desired temp of 155, your strike temp should be 166.
Why, oh, why did I not think to use brewing software?
I blame it on the homebrew.
__________________
staygoldBREWING
Primary:
RIS, Flanders Red, Berliner Weisse
On Tap:
Brown Ale, American Stout, Pumpkin Porter, Pale Ale, Uncle Muscle's IPA, Rowsdower Canadian Dry Stout
Bottled:
Berliner Weisse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny's Evil Concoctions
I think you are confuisng circle k with a reach around.
). I made a chart in the back of my brewlog notebook so I don't have to figure it out each time.
Linear Mode
