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Old 01-08-2011, 04:23 PM   #311
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So how does the "no sparge" method described here differ from Lonnic Mac's Brutus 2.0?
http://www.alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus20.html

Are they the same aside from the direct fired mlt?

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Old 01-08-2011, 04:54 PM   #312
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Yup. There's a number of variations of Lonnie's 20 design banging around here but they're all essentially no-sparge.

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Old 01-09-2011, 03:12 PM   #313
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Like jkarp said variations for sure. I assume Lonnie is using a "normal" mash liquor/grist ratio in his mash and then adds the "equilibrium" water. The premise in this post adds all the water at once in the mash tun. Then recirculates occasionally, and constantly during mashout. I have a very similar setup as Saccharomyces but I put all the water in my BK and dump my grain in and recirc occasionally and constantly during mashout in a single vessel.

I think the Brutus is between a "traditional" sparge and the no sparge talked about here. The "equilibrium" step as sparging to me and Lonnie even calls it a recirc sparge. He's just not lautering when he does it so I guess its not technically a sparge?

Lonnie is no sprage, and the technique Saccharomyces/jkarp/me use is Full Volume No Sparge. Maybe to some this is a distinction without a difference. But your mash pH will definately be different with all the water in the mash. The mash will be quite thin with all the water, and have better temp stability during the mash. The temp stability might not really be a that big of a deal if your able to heat your mash tun.

You should check out jkarp's post also:Countertop Brutus 20. He has a similar set up as Lonnie, but does a full volume mash.

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Old 01-09-2011, 06:11 PM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjoe View Post
Lonnie is no sprage, and the technique Saccharomyces/jkarp/me use is Full Volume No Sparge. Maybe to some this is a distinction without a difference. But your mash pH will definately be different with all the water in the mash. The mash will be quite thin with all the water, and have better temp stability during the mash. The temp stability might not really be a that big of a deal if your able to heat your mash tun.
Fundamentally I think there isn't much difference between the approach in this thread and Lonnie's Brutus 20, other than mash thickness which has little effect in practice (a thinner mash will take slightly longer to convert due to enzyme dilution but otherwise doesn't impact the outcome).
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:17 PM   #315
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What is the relationship between thin mash and pH? Anybody have any measurements? In other words, how far would pH drift with full-volume mashing compared to typical water/grain ratios in a "standard" mash, given the same recipe? Is there a fudge factor?

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Old 01-09-2011, 06:23 PM   #316
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I read through this whole thread but don't think i noticed it anywhere.

This procedure can only be done on beer 1.050 or less correct?

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Old 01-09-2011, 06:27 PM   #317
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I read through this whole thread but don't think i noticed it anywhere.

This procedure can only be done on beer 1.050 or less correct?
Lord no. I do 1.080 all the time and have gone higher.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:27 PM   #318
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No, if you have a large enough mash tun, you can do big beers. It's just that efficiency really drops off after a certain point. Largest I have done is a 1.084, but my efficiency was only 62%. I make up for it in grain bill.

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Old 01-09-2011, 06:31 PM   #319
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What is the relationship between thin mash and pH?
Well, the Aussies with their brew in a bag do 4qt/lb and higher...

For our systems, it's not relevant as most of us mash at standard ratios and recirculate the full volume post-mash.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:47 PM   #320
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Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
Well, the Aussies with their brew in a bag do 4qt/lb and higher...

For our systems, it's not relevant as most of us mash at standard ratios and recirculate the full volume post-mash.
I mash/recirculate the full volume the entire time. I thought that was what Sacch, bigjoe, and others were doing as well. Any insight on which is the better approach?
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