I love no sparge brewing... - Page 21

**NicotineRush** · 01-04-2010, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reelale

I'd like to report that the Nut Brown Ale I brewed with this process is excellent. My first AG brew, and my best brew by far. I've since used my no-sparge set-up to brew an APA and an Oatmeal Stout, both of which are currently in primaries. I'll report on them when they are ready. I'm gonna continue using this system for awhile, it works for me. Higher gravity beers make take some tweaking I think.

Thanks! I'm in the process of acquiring the equipment for this setup. It just seems like it will suit my AG needs. Adding a 'RIMS for dummies' type heater should simplify the process even more.
Tom

**Reelale** · 01-04-2010, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NicotineRush

Thanks! I'm in the process of acquiring the equipment for this setup. It just seems like it will suit my AG needs. Adding a 'RIMS for dummies' type heater should simplify the process even more.
Tom

Yeah, I think I lost some heat via hoses on my first batch. I've since shortened them up and the system now holds heat through the recirculation remarkably well. The rims heater would certainly be a benefit. This system seems to work real well with no-chill, but I chill with an IC/Whirlpool return from the March pump and it suits me fine. Good luck with ur set-up, you'll like it.

**NicotineRush** · 01-04-2010, 06:03 PM

March Pump is on it's way. What size tubing do the input/outputs take? Like to get it ordered soon. I'll be chilling as well, as it's just to freakin hot here in the summertime.

**Reelale** · 01-04-2010, 06:16 PM

1/2" ID Silicone Tubing is what I use. I put Quick Disconnects on both input and outlet of my pump, after the valve on the outlet.

The Pol · 01-04-2010, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkarp

You referring to my chart Pol? It takes all that into account. The reason efficiency declines is you can't keep adding water ad infinitum as boil-off rate is fixed and most people don't want to do 2-3 hour boils.

Higher gravity beers are going to have higher pre-boil specific gravity and therefore a larger % of sugar "lost" to absorption. The single biggest factor in no-sparge efficiency is that absorption number.

Nice chart...

All I am saying is that there is room for a brewer to #1 know thier no sparge eff. easily since it is a product of MLT losses and grain absorption. #2 you can choose to use more water, boil longer (60-120 minutes) to compensate for losses in eff. on larger grain bills.

Of course you cannot add more water to infinity, but you probably arent adding to your grain bill to infinity either. Your OG will have a window, so your grain bill will have a window, therefore if you make a boil window, you can get the same eff. across all batches, easy peasy

Not saying people should, or will, but they can.

This interests me... muahhahahahaha

HarkinBanks · 01-05-2010, 03:07 AM

Exactly Pol. Now that I know my constants such as boil off, MLT loss and grain absorption on my CB20, I can calculate my pre-boil gravity, post-boil gravity and efficiency spot on with any recipe. I hit them every time when I brew. Repeatability was my goal and that is exactly what I get with my no-sparge system.

The Pol · 01-05-2010, 03:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HarkinBanks

Exactly Pol. Now that I know my constants such as boil off, MLT loss and grain absorption on my CB20, I can calculate my pre-boil gravity, post-boil gravity and efficiency spot on with any recipe. I hit them every time when I brew. Repeatability was my goal and that is exactly what I get with my no-sparge system.

I just made up a calculator based on my target boil off, batch size and losses (MLT and absorption) for brews from 1.040 to 1.081 OG. Really interested in this!

HarkinBanks · 01-05-2010, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pol

I just made up a calculator based on my target boil off, batch size and losses (MLT and absorption) for brews from 1.040 to 1.081 OG. Really interested in this!

Excel has become my best friend. I have strike water, strike temp, pre-boil gravity and efficiency calculate automatically. All I need to enter is my pre-boil volume and lbs of grain. Wish I had that $20 back for Beersmith, excel is all I ever needed.

bigjoe · 01-05-2010, 05:46 AM

Saccharomyces this may be a stupid question but I have to ask.

Is the only place your taking the temp of your mash in the boil kettle? It looks that way from your pics as best I can tell and it looks like the same for jkarp.

I'm going to have virtually the same setup direct fired but I have a igloo cube for MLT. I have a thermometer setup on my BK with a compression fitting. I guess the BK and MLT temp should be very close if doing a continuous recirc right? I like the thermo on the BK when I chill. I plan on buying a k type with 2 inputs in near future. One for MLT one for BK. Maybe its just over kill?

**jkarp** · 01-05-2010, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pol

All I am saying is that there is room for a brewer to #1 know thier no sparge eff. easily since it is a product of MLT losses and grain absorption. #2 you can choose to use more water, boil longer (60-120 minutes) to compensate for losses in eff. on larger grain bills.

Absolutely! Being flexible with boil times, AND the fact that your prior beast got some really impressive boil-off rates means your efficiency window will widen dramatically.

The no-sparge numbers really are simple to crunch once you think about it for a few minutes. You're probably giving us too many clues here though.