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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Hybrid Fly Sparge Technique
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #121
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Recently read an article on maximizing extraction when lautering/fly sparging in a pro brewers magazine. The author suggested when draining 1st running was to let about 25% of the grain bed top show before fly sparging. Those who fly sparge might want to give this a try and see if yield changes.

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Old 10-29-2013, 03:56 PM   #122
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Awesome thread! Still a noob to all grain and was getting on average 62% efficiency. After ready this, and incorporating a few of the suggestions, I bumped 17 points on my last batch. 62% to 79% in one shot! Thanks to you all

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Old 11-02-2013, 03:07 PM   #123
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This got me to transition to full fly sparging since I got sick of manually recirculating. I might revisit the initial batch sparge to see if it will shave some time off my brew day.

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Old 12-06-2013, 05:28 PM   #124
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I only started doing all grain about 3 years ago. The technique I've been using from the start was very similar to the original posters outline. However, there were a few times when I rushed the process by dumping in all the sparge water at once and just opened the valve all the way to drain into the brew pot. My efficiency was in the mid 60s on those occasions. But when I kept the drain valve closed a bit and really took the time to match the slow draining with the addition of clean sparge water, the efficiency was in the high 70s and once even topped 80.

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Old 02-02-2014, 06:29 PM   #125
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I have been using this method to sparge on my eherms setup and am getting about 83-87% consistent efficiency and am only sparging with about 3-4 gallons on a 5.5 gallon batch... and I am using a bazoka tube in the bottom of my mashtun with a finer copper screen tube inside that... I found that by slowing the speed at which I sparge I could raise the efficiency..
My last brew was a midwest oKtoberfest kit that was supposed to be 1.064-1.066 and I got 1.075.. 4.5gallons of mash and 3 gallon sparge piumped with little 12v tan pumps turned down to where it took about 20-25 mines to sparge the 3-4 gallons and left the last gallon in the mt.

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Old 02-06-2014, 12:28 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portlandbeergeek View Post
Ooooh that dosen't look too hard to make. Just PVC pipe? How does it attach to the spigot? You wouldn't happen to have a tutorial for that, would 'ya?
Does that need to be taken apart to be cleaned?
Also, it looks like you've taken the lid of your cooler off the hinges. Great idea, my lid always seems to get in the way as I mash on the kitchen counter and the cabinets get in the way.
I'd use copper. NO PVC. That is cpvc. Pvc will leach chemicals into your wort. Choc is stable at the temps of your sparge water.

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Old 02-08-2014, 06:05 PM   #127
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This is what I do. Is there any chance of over sparging if I acidify the sparge water?

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Old 02-03-2015, 01:17 PM   #128
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I'm also curious about acidifying the water & over-sparging. If you acidify the sparge water to a pH of 5.2-5.4 (at room temperature of course), is tannin extraction an issue?

I've read, from different sources, the following 3 causes of tannin extraction: temperatures above 170*F, gravity below 1.09, and pH above 6. PH and gravity would be directly related if you were using untreated water

Considering that decoction mashes apparently do not cause tannin extraction and I've read they involve boiling the grains, I suspect temperature is only an issue if pH of the water is inappropriate. Has anyone tested this?

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