Newest Threads

**mmonacel** · 09-24-2011, 03:39 AM

So I picked up the whirlpool fitting from Bargain Fittings and I think it's great. I needed a dip tube anyway and I want to whirlpool so I think it's a great idea. At this time however, I only have my main ball valve installed. I would love to whirlpool with this fitting by feeding my March pump by hanging a tube over the side of the kettle and pushing back through the fitting, but can't see how I would start up the pump with prime. Anyone know how this is done?

**mmonacel** · 09-25-2011, 03:19 AM

Lots of views but no takers yet. Shameless bump.

TRainH2o · 09-25-2011, 06:23 PM

Maybe I'm not totally understanding what you are trying to do but.....

If you have a valve installed at the bottom of your brew pot, it would gravity feed into your pump. Take the output from the pump and have it going back into your brew pot. You could try and clamp it onto the lip of your pot.

**JuanMoore** · 09-25-2011, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmonacel

So I picked up the whirlpool fitting from Bargain Fittings and I think it's great. I needed a dip tube anyway and I want to whirlpool so I think it's a great idea. At this time however, I only have my main ball valve installed. I would love to whirlpool with this fitting by feeding my March pump by hanging a tube over the side of the kettle and pushing back through the fitting, but can't see how I would start up the pump with prime. Anyone know how this is done?

So you want to siphon out of the top of your kettle with a transfer tube, and recirculate back into the kettle through your single valve? It might be possible. You'd need to use a funnel or something to fill the transfer tubing with wort to get it primed. Moving the end of the tube down into the kettle without introducing an air bubble large enough to lose prime might be difficult. My LG pump has no trouble pulling large air bubbles through, but I know march 809's are much more sucseptible to losing prime. Would certainly be easier to just install another valve in the kettle though. If you add a port for whirlpooling, I'd suggest making it a little higher up than the drain valve you have now.

TRainH2o · 09-25-2011, 08:26 PM

Wouldn't reversing the direction of the whirlpool defeat one of the main reasons for whirlpooling to start with? If you go from the bottom up, it seems like you wouldn't have the same settling action as if you fed in from the top of the kettle.

Not bashing your idea, just thinking that you wouldn't get as good of a result.

**jakecpunut** · 09-25-2011, 11:07 PM

Here's what I use.. works great! This one is long for using with Keggles, they have a shorter version for smaller kettles..

http://morebeer.com/view_product/9147//Wort_Chiller_Recirculation_Arm_-_Option_Two

**mmonacel** · 09-26-2011, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRainH2o

Wouldn't reversing the direction of the whirlpool defeat one of the main reasons for whirlpooling to start with? If you go from the bottom up, it seems like you wouldn't have the same settling action as if you fed in from the top of the kettle.

I'm not sure if it matters where it the whirlpool originates (maybe it does though...). In some initial tests (pumping hose water in) it created a great whirlpool flow and some debris that was in the pot seemed to come right to the center. To be determined though in a real test. The site however seems to indicate that a bottom placement is proper so I'm guessing I'll probably be fine.

**mmonacel** · 09-26-2011, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuanMoore

So you want to siphon out of the top of your kettle with a transfer tube, and recirculate back into the kettle through your single valve?

You got it

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuanMoore

You'd need to use a funnel or something to fill the transfer tubing with wort to get it primed. Moving the end of the tube down into the kettle without introducing an air bubble large enough to lose prime might be difficult.

Yeah - that's my thoughts as well. I was hoping there was a sure-fire method people tend to use for this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JuanMoore

Would certainly be easier to just install another valve in the kettle though. If you add a port for whirlpooling, I'd suggest making it a little higher up than the drain valve you have now.

Yeah - I was hoping to save some $ if another weldless valve wasn't necessary. I'm all for buying equipment, especially if it makes sense and makes my life easier, but I also don't want to waste money either.

Time to start playing around and see what I can make happen. I'll update here if I get success!

Thanks for the tips / help!

**mmonacel** · 09-26-2011, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakecpunut

Here's what I use.. works great! This one is long for using with Keggles, they have a shorter version for smaller kettles..

http://morebeer.com/view_product/9147//Wort_Chiller_Recirculation_Arm_-_Option_Two

Yep - I actually built my own out of some soft copper. My concern here is that it will certainly chill faster with my IC, but I think my IC will get in the way of a good cone in the bottom. I could use it alone (which is what I think you might be suggesting). Maybe just clamp it to the side of the kettle. Should fit the bill. Nice call.

Flomaster · 09-26-2011, 01:37 AM

if you have a bottom valve and pump you need to exit the vessel via the bottom into the pump and back into the vessel via your whirlpool arm.

it really is that simple.

now that fitting you bought is meant to be a pick up tube is installed at the bottom, or a whirlpool arm if installed half way or at the top of the vessel.

-=Jason=-