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Old 02-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #11
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Isn't that just part of the mash? Why would it be any more important than batch sparging or my infamous splash sparging?
With fly sparging, one can "over-sparge". As the runnings get lower in SG, the pH of the mash goes up. If the pH gets too high (I want to say more than 8.0-ish), you can leach tannins from the mash. So, if you're using sparge water with a pH of, e.g. 7.6, you run a much higher risk of over-sparging and tannin extraction than if you use water with a pH of 5.7 (like me!). At least that's how I understand it.
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Old 02-05-2009, 08:33 PM   #12
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Ahh, yes. I gotcha...that makes sense. One could test the pH of the runnings as they are reaching the end of their sparge to ensure they don't extract tannins.

Really, no one should even use water with a pH that high. Ever.

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Old 02-05-2009, 08:55 PM   #13
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With fly sparging, one can "over-sparge". As the runnings get lower in SG, the pH of the mash goes up. If the pH gets too high (I want to say more than 8.0-ish), you can leach tannins from the mash. So, if you're using sparge water with a pH of, e.g. 7.6, you run a much higher risk of over-sparging and tannin extraction than if you use water with a pH of 5.7 (like me!). At least that's how I understand it.
That is a great point. Therefore knowing the ph of your sparge water is very important. I have water that is 8 on the ph meter, so I add some lactic acid to get it down below 6, then you can fly sparge and feel secure that you will not be leaching those tanins.

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Old 02-05-2009, 09:00 PM   #14
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Ahh, yes. I gotcha...that makes sense. One could test the pH of the runnings as they are reaching the end of their sparge to ensure they don't extract tannins.

Really, no one should even use water with a pH that high. Ever.
I start with pH9.3 and dose it with Lactic Acid to achieve at least 5.5 to avoid this. Works fine.

My water sux, but my beers are good.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:08 PM   #15
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I start with pH9.3
!!!!!!!... you must be "lyeing".
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:10 PM   #16
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I start with pH9.3 and dose it with Lactic Acid to achieve at least 5.5 to avoid this. Works fine.

My water sux, but my beers are good.
Sorry, should have rephrased. No one should ever have a mash pH that high. Treating your water beforehand works wonders.
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Old 02-06-2009, 02:00 AM   #17
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With fly sparging, one can "over-sparge". As the runnings get lower in SG, the pH of the mash goes up. If the pH gets too high (I want to say more than 8.0-ish), you can leach tannins from the mash. So, if you're using sparge water with a pH of, e.g. 7.6, you run a much higher risk of over-sparging and tannin extraction than if you use water with a pH of 5.7 (like me!). At least that's how I understand it.
When I make a dark brew I treat the mash water to make it more alkaline (which should put the mash pH right about where it should be) but I don't treat the sparge water. When I make a light brew I treat both the mash and sparge water (to reduce alkalinity mostly). I do it to prevent just what you're talking about...but I only recently got pH strips to measure this. I've always flown blind.
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