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Old 04-19-2013, 02:38 PM   #1
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Default How Close Am I to AG? New Equipment.

Greetings!

Last week I ordered some equipment to make a brewing upgrade. For the last 7 months I have been doing extract partial boils via stove top. Due to arrive today is a 10 gallon norther brewer TallBoy SS kettle. Bayou burner SQ14. And immersion chiller.

My plan is to start doing full boils extract and maybe doing PM if I can with my current set up.

I was thinking I could do the easy stovetop PM using my old 4 gallon and then take that water and bring it outside and pour into my 10 gal kettle.

My main goal is to make it to AG one peice at a time. I was thinking I must be getting close now.

My equipment in total is:

10Gal SS kettle (no spigot)
Propane burner
Chiller
4 gallon kettle

To officially move to AG, would I need a second propane burner and kettle along with a MLT made from a cooler?

My LHBS crushes my grain so I don't need a barley crusher just yet. Whats my best course of action here considering my equpiment?

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Old 04-19-2013, 02:45 PM   #2
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The boil in a baggers will chime in shortly, but to all-grain batch sparge, all you will need is a cooler with a spigot and a SS braid

Check out this link.

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

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Old 04-19-2013, 03:13 PM   #3
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Yep, your all set up to do Brew in a Bag. I have done 2 BIAB batches after 5 extract batches. Brew day is a little longer but it is very easy to learn this process. There is a BIAB stick on the top of this page. Read that and you will know exactly how to do it.

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Old 04-19-2013, 03:19 PM   #4
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You don't need two burners. You can use your smaller pot for strike and sparge water, and your new one for the main boil. As far as a mash tun, those are easy to convert, you can do it for around $50 pretty easy. There are TONS of videos on you tube. The easiest by far is the SS Braided line, or you could buy a bazooka screen from a HBS. 2 burners is more of a convenience.

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Old 04-19-2013, 03:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jflongo View Post
You don't need two burners. You can use your smaller pot for strike and sparge water, and your new one for the main boil. As far as a mash tun, those are easy to convert, you can do it for around $50 pretty easy. There are TONS of videos on you tube. The easiest by far is the SS Braided line, or you could buy a bazooka screen from a HBS. 2 burners is more of a convenience.
Yep.

It is really easy to do and you can do it even cheaper if you find a used cooler at a garage sale or on craig's list.

Check out the Cheap and Easy Mash tun build thread.
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My Keezer build: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/keez...y-turn-340755/

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Old 04-19-2013, 06:45 PM   #6
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Last week I ordered some equipment to make a brewing upgrade. For the last 7 months I have been doing extract partial boils via stove top. Due to arrive today is a 10 gallon norther brewer TallBoy SS kettle. Bayou burner SQ14. And immersion chiller.

My plan is to start doing full boils extract and maybe doing PM if I can with my current set up.

I was thinking I could do the easy stovetop PM using my old 4 gallon and then take that water and bring it outside and pour into my 10 gal kettle.

My main goal is to make it to AG one peice at a time. I was thinking I must be getting close now.

My equipment in total is:

10Gal SS kettle (no spigot)
Propane burner
Chiller
4 gallon kettle

To officially move to AG, would I need a second propane burner and kettle along with a MLT made from a cooler?

My LHBS crushes my grain so I don't need a barley crusher just yet. Whats my best course of action here considering my equpiment?[/QUOTE]

Do you have a cooler out in your garage? If not buy one for cheap on craigslist and convert it to a mash tun w/ball valve and screen. I just started brewing recently and converted one of my coolers. Got all the parts at home depot. I took my cooler in to the store and wheeled it back to the brass fitting/plumbing section. Put together my own bulkhead and ball valve and added in a big, bulky braided stainless steal hot water heater supply line for my screen. it works really well for me and was very affordable.

Outside of that you should be set. You don't need a second burner. I use gravity (dont have a pump yet) to brew. I have my kettle set up high on an old tool box with my mash tun a level lower on an old cedar chest (yeah, I like to repurpose things ). Once I mash in with my initial strike water I then heat my sparge water and move it to another (empty) cooler to maintain temps. I move my kettle to the floor below my cooler mash tun and finish sparging and drain to my kettle. To this point I have required help elevating my kettle (full of wort) so that i can gravity feed through my chiller and into my fermentation vessel (SS Kegs). That last part kind of sucks. I'm coming up with alternatives as we speak.

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Old 04-20-2013, 02:34 PM   #7
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I don't already have a cooler so I would definitely need to get one one way or another.

I have been reading up on BIAB and the pros, and cons. It's something that seems worth it for standard gravity beers, but not much higher than that. I have no pully system, nor do I intend to build one, so I assume it will all be man power when draining the grains?

If I was going to only be brewing say 1.050 beers, why even bother with an MLT build?


My equipment came in!

Tomorrow I am going to brew for the first time on my new set up. I'm just going to do straight extract for the first time, but I may give BIAB a shot next time.

setup.jpg  
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:48 PM   #8
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My original non biab rig consisted of 1 7 gallon pot, a cooler MLT a turkey fryer, an IC, an auto siphon and a handful of buckets. Later I added a pair of welding gloves...

A brew day went like this:
1. Heat mash liquor + as much sparge as I could in the BK/HLT
2. Dump HLT/BK water + grains into cooler/seal up and mash
3. Heat remaining sparge water in kettle while mashing
4. Run off mash into white bucket
5. Mix in sparge water with the mash and stir
6. dump white bucket in BK and hit it with flame
7. Run sparge off into BK
8. Boil
9. Chill
10. Autosiphon into the fermenter.

Involved a lot less clean up time than what I have now, but a lot more lifting hot water/wort.

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Old 04-20-2013, 02:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
I have been reading up on BIAB and the pros, and cons. It's something that seems worth it for standard gravity beers, but not much higher than that.
Dang, somebody should have told me that before I brewed the 1.070 Belgian Wit.

I really didn't intend to make the Belgian Wit that strong. I built the recipe with software and forgot to change the expected efficiency from 70 to 80 percent and then to compound the problem, I overshot the 80% I expected too. I wonder what the problem might be with making higher gravity beers that I don't know about.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #10
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Nice, that is good to know its possible to do so. I was just going off of what I read.

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