Holy Efficiency BATMAN! (kinda long)

**SenorWanderer** · 10-12-2007, 07:17 AM

WOW, this is fun! The UPS man paid me a visit today. He brought me a Barley Crusher, a refractometer, and 10lbs of pale 2-row. I also just got my "acquired" keg back from my friend the welder, and i have a fresh tank of propane. Hmmm, what should I do today!?! My free reading time lately has been dedicated to improving my efficiency so I decided to spend my afternoon doing a test mash. That's right, I sacrificed 5 lbs of grain to science.

After my reading I dedicated myself to a life of mash outs and double batch sparges (thanks, Bobby_M, for this post). I've also decided to start doing 3 gallon batches with "test" recipes so i don't end up with 5-6 gallons of beer that's only kinda good. So my day was set, I would mash 5 lbs of pale AND boil to reach a post-boil volume of 3.25 gallons.

I setup my Barley Crusher and attached my hand drill. I went full speed with the drill at first but for some reason that spooked me so i backed it off and went about half speed the rest of the way. still took less than a minute to crush 5 lbs, and it looked beautiful, just like the pictures you pros post.

I mashed-in with 5 quarts of water @ 178F to reach 156F. I stirred in and hit it at first, then it went down to 152F, stirred some more, spiked to 160F, stirred some more, 158F, forgot about the 5.2 buffer, stirred that in, now 152F (oh crap), put the top on the cooler and set the timer for 40min. the mash settled at 151, which is disappointing, but it didn't budge from there. With 10mins left in the mash I fired up the HLT and got the water to 184F right when the timer beeped. Mash-out was 5 quarts @ 184F to reach 168F. Didn't measure the mash temp here, just stirred and started vorlaufing immediately, which took quite a long time to run clear. First runnings into the kettle were just over 5 quarts with a SG of 1.060. first batch sparge was 6.25 quarts @ 170F. Stir, 5 min rest, vorlauf (long again

), and drain. This sparge yielded 8 quarts (who knows!) with a SG of 1.027. Second sparge same as the first, yield was just a little more than 6 quarts @ 1.013.

Summary:

Total preboil volume was 4.8 gallons (my goal was 4.75) and the gravity came in at 1.035. I boiled for 90 minutes and yielded 3.55 gallons @ 1.046.

According to Beersmith, my "Actual Efficiency" is 89.87%, with an "Efficiency Into Boiler" of 92.65%. I am amazed! This is probably my 4th all grain mash, and definitely the smoothest so far. I nailed my volumes for the first time, and the efficiencies are amazing. The two variables that changed efficiency-wise are the crush, and the pH 5.2 buffer I used for the first time.

And now for the questions:

1. My Barley Crusher is the coolest thing I have bought in a LONG time: should I be concerned with the drill speed while crushing, or can I let 'er rip?

2. What do you guys have to say about hitting my mash temp? I feel like I stirred too long. Would anyone who consistently hits their mash-in temps care to give an overview of their procedure?

3. Any tips on using the 5.2 buffer? Is it as easy as a scoop per the directions right into the mash? Does anyone who uses this stuff ever measure there mash pH? Mine came in at 5.85. Just wondering.

Thanks for sticking it out to the end! Can't wait for the comments!!

**Jaybird** · 10-12-2007, 07:42 AM

#1 I wouldnt let er rip I would hold the speed at about 300-400 rpm thats there suggested and it seems to work for me I too get very good EFF typicaly 80-85% and I fly sparge

#2 hitting your mash temp is tricky you want to take good notes on things like grain temp and quantity before you mash in if your grain is cold you wont get the same results as you did the mash before and the temp will drop more. I always shoot for about 2-3 deg higher because its alot easier to drop the temp than it is to raise at least on my system.

#3 I use the 5.2 in the HLT and mix it in there and I also use it in ALL H2o that is going to touch the mash or the finnish beer.

congrats on the mash and purchase of the BC youll love it
JJ

BrianP · 10-12-2007, 03:50 PM

Re: #2 - The two factors which help greatly in hitting your mash temp are:
a) using a strike water calculation (your software may have it, otherwise google it and you will find some calculators online). There are three basic inputs: weight of your grain bill, the temperature of the grain, and the quarts of water you plan to mash with - it will tell you the required temperature of the water.

b) preheating your MLT with hot water for 10 minutes or so before hand. I add a couple gallons of 180F water, cover it, and later dump it out before adding the strike water and grains.

Beside this, I prefer to make the strike water a couple degrees higher than the calculated temp, stir it until it is right on the money, and then add the grain.

Hope it helps.

**SenorWanderer** · 10-12-2007, 06:28 PM

thanks for the replies, guys. jaybird- how can i tell how many rpms my drill is putting out?! does anyone have any recommendations for a dedicated electric motor for this? i searched a little bit for "electric motor" on google but the results were so vast and i don't even really know what i'm looking for anyway. any suggestions on brand, or type?

BrianP- sorry i wasn't more clear in the OP, i use beersmith's calc to determine strike water temp, and i do preheat my MLT just like you suggested. i suppose i'll be striking a few degrees hot and let it settle into place.

desertbronze · 10-12-2007, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianP

Re: #2 - The two factors which help greatly in hitting your mash temp are:
a) using a strike water calculation (your software may have it, otherwise google it and you will find some calculators online). There are three basic inputs: weight of your grain bill, the temperature of the grain, and the quarts of water you plan to mash with - it will tell you the required temperature of the water.

b) preheating your MLT with hot water for 10 minutes or so before hand. I add a couple gallons of 180F water, cover it, and later dump it out before adding the strike water and grains.

Beside this, I prefer to make the strike water a couple degrees higher than the calculated temp, stir it until it is right on the money, and then add the grain.

Hope it helps.

I started out preheating the mash tun - worked ok. Then I read a suggestion on the 'net to raise the strike water temperature a little higher to compensate for the heat loss to the mash tun. Starting taking detailed notes - now I know, with my system, my strike water should be 12 to 14 degrees above desired mash temperature.

IOW, heat the strike water to 162 - mash in and the temperature of the mash will settle at 150. One less step - KISS. I normally go 14 degrees above the desired temperature and cool to the desired mash temperature with some ice cubes.

Lots of ways to skin a cat - and lots of ways to make beer!!!

BrianP · 10-14-2007, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by desertbronze

Lots of ways to skin a cat - and lots of ways to make beer!!!

If that ain't the truth. For every step in brewing, there seems to be five opinions on the best way to do something.

**Jaybird** · 10-14-2007, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SenorWanderer

thanks for the replies, guys. jaybird- how can i tell how many rpms my drill is putting out?! does anyone have any recommendations for a dedicated electric motor for this? i searched a little bit for "electric motor" on google but the results were so vast and i don't even really know what i'm looking for anyway. any suggestions on brand, or type?

BrianP- sorry i wasn't more clear in the OP, i use beersmith's calc to determine strike water temp, and i do preheat my MLT just like you suggested. i suppose i'll be striking a few degrees hot and let it settle into place.

most cordless drills on the #1 or slow speed is going to be really close to the 3 to 400 rpm.
I dont know what I am doing different than some of the other guys but I too have been told 12-14 deg hotter that desired mash temp but I have to go 18-20 above desired and I keep my grain @ room temp
JJ

**Orfy** · 10-14-2007, 06:58 AM

KISS BABY

I buy precrushed from the Malster not the HBS so it is consistant and correct.
Always hit the mash temp. I'm dialing pretty good with Beersmith for my kit but before that I did the a coupple of test runs. I use a good well insuiated cooler. Don't preheat and put the lid on within a miute of the strike. I strike at 77°C to get 68°C and it's usually spot on.
Never use the stuff and get 75%-85% dependant on the methods and time I use.

WBC · 10-14-2007, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SenorWanderer

I mashed-in with 5 quarts of water @ 178F to reach 156F. I stirred in and hit it at first, then it went down to 152F, stirred some more, spiked to 160F, stirred some more, 158F, forgot about the 5.2 buffer, stirred that in, now 152F (oh crap), put the top on the cooler and set the timer for 40min. the mash settled at 151, which is disappointing, but it didn't budge from there.

2. What do you guys have to say about hitting my mash temp? I feel like I stirred too long. Would anyone who consistently hits their mash-in temps care to give an overview of their procedure?

Why 156F? 152 is good for a balanced ale. Not too sweet and not too dry.

The secret to hitting strike temp is to stabilize the mash water temp in the mashtun before adding grains. Start 5 to 8 degrees above what you want the strike to be. Stir. Keep the lid on with a floating thermometer in the tun. Loose temperature only after it has stabilized temp. Stir to eliminate hot spots and keep the lid on as much as you can. When you reach the stabilized strike temp, quickly add grains and stir well. Wait 8 minutes to stabilize again and then check the temp. You should be right on. Remember that once you reach the correct strike temp you can know that you will get the kind of beer profile you desired. I stir at 30 minutes into the mash to mix enzymes so all grains have them available for conversion. A PH stabilizer is good if you need it. Use test strips to check the mash PH. Check the liquid only, don't just plop it in the mash as your reading will be off.