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Old 06-19-2005, 08:18 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Dark_Ale
Those of you that use the rubbemaid's and igloos what temp do you get the water before you add it to the cooler. Just wondering how much temp was lost after putting in the grain. I thought about heating some water up and adding it to the cooler just to heat it up first, then once the cooler was hot mabe I would not loose as much when I add my water and grains?

I have the maxcold igloo coolers and to get a 154 deg mash, I have to heat my strike water to 173 degrees. Its worked perfectly the last 2 times at that temp. A lot is trial and error. It will also depend on how much grain you have. Promash will figure out the temp for you if you know the thermal mass of your cooler. I believe I came up with 3.7 for mine. Your TM will probably be very similar.
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:33 PM   #12
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I too am just now getting myself setup for all grain. I did my last kit beer yesterday so I got 2 weeks or so to get ready for all grain. Built my structure to support 3 tier etc.

Question though, I never anticipate going bigger than 5g batches so I ended up purchasing the 5g round rubbermaid. Is this too small? I thought I read on some other sites that the 5g is a good size for this size batch to mash in. Is this big enough for a "big beer"? I looked at the square cooler at Walmart and suspect that the mash depth would have been too shallow for a 5g batch of grain.

fyi - I went to an all grain class last week which was great. I'd recommend if available in your area; got lucky too as the head brewmaster of a place out here (Nimbus) was monitoring the class and provided lots of Q&A at the end.

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Old 06-20-2005, 03:44 PM   #13
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Question though, I never anticipate going bigger than 5g batches so I ended up purchasing the 5g round rubbermaid. Is this too small? I thought I read on some other sites that the 5g is a good size for this size batch to mash in. Is this big enough for a "big beer"? I looked at the square cooler at Walmart and suspect that the mash depth would have been too shallow for a 5g batch of grain.

I had the same question when I made mine--so I know the answer to this. You can get about 12.5 lbs. of grain (and water) into the 5 galllon cooler for a mash. That will get you right around the 1.060-1.064 mark for a SG. It sufficient enough until you decide to do BIGGER beers.
That SG is perfect for what I want to do right now, so I went with it.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:07 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ORRELSE
I had the same question when I made mine--so I know the answer to this. You can get about 12.5 lbs. of grain (and water) into the 5 galllon cooler for a mash. That will get you right around the 1.060-1.064 mark for a SG. It sufficient enough until you decide to do BIGGER beers.
That SG is perfect for what I want to do right now, so I went with it.
Great thanks. Since I've hacked into it already it was money well spent then

Looking forward to the experience. With the wood etc to build my stand, cooler, copper, tubing, valves and a Phil's sparge arm the investment wasn't too bad. 'bout $85. I had a 10g plastic jug that I converted for the HLT and am good to go. Single infusion for me...
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:20 PM   #15
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my three tier system is just a table with a box, atop which sits my hot liquor tank (a square picnic cooler with a ball valve and tubing). next to the box on the table is the ten gallon igloo cooler with the ball valve and cpvc manifold and tubing. on the floor of the garage sits the turkey frier and the 8 gallon pot. i start heating the wort for the boil as soon as i've recirculated the initial runoffs and gotten about half a gallon in there. it is easy to control the flow in and out of the mash/lauter tun with the ball valves.

good luck guys

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Old 06-20-2005, 04:25 PM   #16
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i use the 5 gallon rubber maid cooler too. wish i'd gone with the 10 gallon though, so i can do Dogfish Head 90 Minute IPA clones. but, i 'll use it until i get my gravity-fed system up and running too. you'll love doing the all-grain. yea, it takes longer, it's more involved, but the end result is so much better. every time i brew, i've added a "technique" to help my brews. from going all-grain, to yeast starters, lager freezer, etc. my current batch, i have an APA fermenting in my lager freezer set to 69 degrees (optimum temp range for the yeast i used). i've never been able to control ferm temps for ale's, so i am anxious to see the end result. maybe 69 degrees opposed to 74-75 will be quite noticable?????
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeRoux's Broux
I have an APA fermenting in my lager freezer set to 69 degrees (optimum temp range for the yeast i used). i've never been able to control ferm temps for ale's, so i am anxious to see the end result. maybe 69 degrees opposed to 74-75 will be quite noticable?????
cheers!
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I noticed a very nice difference with a stable and optimal ferm temp once I started with a controlled environment (ferment chiller). Had two identical Hefe recipes (DME/steep) one with variable temps (76 or so) one controlled at 66. Much better tasting contolled batch. Didn't get that sweeter home brew taste. Had 2 buddies try; told them they were different recipes and they both picked the controlled batch.

At that all grain class I attended I asked the brewmaster who was sitting in what was his 5 most important things. I'll post in that thread we got going but he had temp contol as one of them.
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