busmanray

Recipes 

since fly sparging can take an hour or so ,should the sparge water be a constant temp. and if so what temp?
thanks -the busman

FSR402

Recipes 

Yes you will want it to stay as constant as you can and you will want it 168-170*

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jdoiv

Recipes 

You'll definitely help your efficiency if you can keep the temp up, but it won't be the end of the world if you don't. My temp will drop down to 150 by the end of the sparge and I still get 85+%.

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FSR402

Recipes 

Why don't you fire it up once or twice while draining?

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WBC

Recipes 

The easy way to fly sparge is to use another cooler for your hot water with a spiggot. It will be within 1 degree at the finish of an hour. I like to start with 185F water from the HLt or boiler, mix, recirculate, start drain and maintain 1 to 2 inches above the grain using the 168F to 170F water from the cooler. This way you are much closer to the 168F right from the start of the drain.

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WBC

Fermentor 1: Bill's House Ale II, Fermentor 2: German Helles, Fermentor 3: Bill's Schworzbier (Black Bier)
Tap 1: Bill's House Ale II, Tap 2: German Hefewizen, Tap 3: Nut Brown Ale
Future Brews: Stone IPA Clone, Blonde Ale, Budvar Clone, Newcastle Clone
New toy: Blichmann 27 gallon fermentor

“If you find yourself in a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging”

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jdoiv

Recipes 

Basically too lazy to. I'm usually busy measuring out my hop additions and keeping an eye on the pump (I pump from the HLT to the MLT) as it likes to cavitate.

I direct fire the MLT to mash out and most of the sugars get rinsed out in the first 20 minutes or so. After that, I don't think temp is that big of a deal. I routinely get 87-93% efficiency if I can drag the sparge out the full 60 minutes.

If I goof and drain too quickly, say 40-45 minutes, I'll get 80-85%. So I think flow rate is more important than temp at the end of the sparge.

__________________
Drinking on the keg: BPA, Brown Ale, Dry Mead, Wee Heavy aged on Oak, CAP
Drinking in the Bottle:
Conditioning:
Fermenting:
Planning: